can someone explain how to manually bleed E lifters

Information on the naturally-aspirated KA24E and KA24DE engines.
lovemysan2
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Joined: Mon Aug 25, 2003 8:36 am

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I've tried bleeding the lifter by idling for 20 minutes at 1000rpms per the FSM. I want to know how to do it manually. I see the small whole in the top of the HLA. Do I press a pen into that and pump the lifter while submerged. How hard should I press. I would just like to hear my truck run on 4 cylinders again.

I don't like listening to my truck tap for 20 minutes waiting for the lift to pump up. It wears the cam, chips and pounds the bottom of the HLA. After seeing what happened to other ka's in the junk yard I'm really not interested in this method.

Tulsa turbo said that he was writing an instruction page on disassembling and cleaning the lifters does anyone know how to do this? I have a junk set to practice on.

If anyone has had this problem before you know how aggravating it is to wait for them to pump up.

thanks for letting me vent


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deviousKA
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well if they arent pumping up after running for a period of time

1. one or more of them are damaged and the cylinder cannot move freely and or tolerance is not tight and oil is leaking past.

2. your oil passage to the rocker assembly (hole in middle bearing cap) is plugged.

3. Your oil pump is not putting out adequate pressure.

I have rebuilt many ka24e's and intalled in customer vehicles. Simply pumping the lifters up in a bucket of oil does nothing, it is not the proper method. Im not saying it is not worth a shot but most likely it is not going to fix your problem.

this bleeding method does not damage the lifters as much as one would think, the reason you seen damaged ones is because of the reasons mentioned above.

Disassembling the lifters is no easy task, the cylinders are trapped in with a snap ring at the bottom. These are designed to be installed and never removed, so you can do more damage than good trying to remove them. I highly doubt anyone has been able to do this and reinstall having them work

lovemysan2
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Joined: Mon Aug 25, 2003 8:36 am

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did I mention I'm desperate.

just kidding. I guess I'll go solid from realnissan. Unless someone knows a cheaper way. I'm going to try an disassemble a junk one for fun what could it hurt.

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deviousKA
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how long have you run it at 1000rpm? i usually go to about 2000rpm and they clear up after 10-15min, on my rebuilds and installs. Btw i will be offering the solid lifter conversion of my own as well as other ka24e parts (very similar to the realnissan lineup) for much much less. If you are looking for a set soon i cant help you out, development process of many items at the moment. Manufacturing is limited to my personal items currently.

lovemysan2
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Joined: Mon Aug 25, 2003 8:36 am

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thanks devious

realnissan is selling them for $225 a set now. Thats with a core. I'm going to do something very soon. This week! I'll prolly send them off in next couple of days. I don't like spending that kind of money but hey, what else can I do.

I ran it at a little over 1000rpms for 25 minutes. With no change. I just used one used lifter. The rest of my set was in good shape.

I had to bleed mine initially and it worked as you discribed. It went from pretty noisey to normal gradually. But what I'm hearing is a solid slap tap for 25minutes. Thats why I wanted to know how to diassemble them.

I had trouble a few times with it tapping and it would work itself out. now its just tap tap tap. I towed it home the night it went because I don't won't to have to pull the head again.

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deviousKA
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sounds like you still have a bad apple out of the bunch. you dont have to pull the head just valve cover and rocker assembly, im sure thats what you meant.

ka24e lifters are no fun.

lovemysan2
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Joined: Mon Aug 25, 2003 8:36 am

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What I meant was I don't want to take a chance of the dead lifter going screwy and messing up the end of the valve. I just wait.

ttylthanks


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