Can it be done well for $2500?

[toki]

I will very soon have the option of picking up a '95 in good condition for $2500, as you know that is a pretty good price. But I was really looking for a hatch before, and was planning on a swap, but now I am thinking of turboing the KA in the 95. I was under the distinct impression from the FAQ I have read more than once over many months and from talking with other people that to safely run a turbo you need many many parts. But others have been telling me that is can be done for less. Would this setup be enough to run lets say.. 8-16psi safely and get it done for under or $2,500? You know 2500 for the car 2500 for the turbo just so no one is confused.

T25 or T28 turbo - or something else taken from a junkyard?front mount intercoolercustom manifoldhks blow-offaudi wastegatevortec f.m.u.walbro 255lphstock ecuSPEC stage 3 clutch (these do work for non SR engines, right? stupid question, right?)4" downpipe with some fitting exhuast (suggest something that doesn't sound to ricer like?)turbonetics boost controller

[Structure240sx]

i think u need to read a lil more. i know this doenst help u but these answers can be found, im proof of it

[toki]

the point was I am getting 2 different things, from manuals online and from people with actuall cars that i know in real life. So some feeback personally from people on this board that have expierence is what i am looking for.

[C-Kwik]

If you're looking for a budget turbo, then you might consider using the internal wastegate. I'd probably go no smaller than a T3. I'd probably dish out for a new turbo as well. Who knows what kind of condition the bearings will be in. If you are looking for 8+ psi, the FMU is probably not the way to go. Even with a High pressure fuel pump, you're probably only going to be able to squeeze out 8-9 psi before it startes getting too lean. And lastly, a 4" downpipe is HUGE. The turbine outlet isn't even close to that big, no need to have a downpipe that big. I'd say 3" is plenty large enough.

[JESTER]

This is a copy of another post I made back several months ago.

Sexy240, did it for $1250. T3,waste gate, BOV, from an SVT Mustang, Custom manifold, 2.5 down pipe,2.25 exhaust,eclipse intercooler, vortech FMU 8:1, champion copper spark plugs (one step colder), retarded the timing,stock injectors, K&N filter, cheap knock off boost gauge, stock clutch, removed mechanical fan.(List provided by Sexy240 back in early 2002)

Like C-KwiK said, Nothing less than a T3 for the 2.4. Sexy was running 7psi and making around 230 to 240 hp if I am not mistaken, with this set up.

I would go this route and upgrade from there.

[toki]

alright, thanks for the input, and to be honest I really only had a limited knowledge of what the FMU really did for it so i guess it's better i dont need one.

And concerning the T3, i'm by no means and expert, but once you get to that size doesnt lag become an issue? But on the other hand would a T25 or T28 offer me too limited boost? I am planning on trying to run 12-16 psi. But with KA internals only being able to handle 12 stock from the FAQ, and since I don't have 'complete faith in my tuning skills' such as the author, running it at any higher than would more than likely mean a port polish new pistons and rods, correct? Or without those would a good intercooler be enough to keep detenation from occuring or would the polish be the best idea?

[toki]

or what about a T3/T4 hybrid? After refreshing my memory about this a little more I remember a T3/T4 being good for because it had the low rev spool of a T3 and the top end output of a T4, correct?

(I didn't see jesters post before either of my 2, sorry)

[JESTER]

If you are going budget, T3. The T25 and T28 is really going to spool too fast for the 2.4 liter. The T3/T04 hybrid is good, but if I was gonna buy and really build the KA (pistons, rods, etc)I would go T04b. Just for the power potential.

If you really want to do your home work, get a copy of Maximum Boost, by Corkey Bell. I picked up a copy and belive me, it has any thing you could want to know about Turbos and Turbo system install.

[toki]

I will definitly try and pick up a copy of maximum boost, but I am not really planning on going you know all out 10 second car here, so i dont know if the T04b is right for me, or frankly what the **** it is exactly. I've ofcoarse seen and heard of them but I am just confused as to what flange type that would be and all that stuff, and also V flange turbos? Huh? I think i should really pick up that book so I can atleast know what the names stand for and all that. And the fittings and all that .54 .60 stuff, not really clear about all that either. =\.

But aside from my ignorance I am looking to run atleast (LEAST) 250 with this turbo and quik spool time is neccisary, I would rather just supercharge than have to waitfor it hit 4-4500k rpm to spool up ya know? And to run 250 assuming exhaust, headers, intake and goodies + the turbo setup with the FMU I would need around 10psi I presume?

One last thing, the turbonetics price listings for the T3/T4 hybrid read like this:

T3/T4B HYBRID CHRA ASSY. - BALL BRG.T3/T4B HYBRID TURBO ASSY. -BALL BRG.

What is the difference between CHRA and TURBO? and what does ASSY mean? And there is also the T3/T4E, what is the difference between E and B?

[JESTER]

I dont know what the heck that is suppose to mean. Some of these web site could confuse the heck out of Einstein. That was a the real bennefit of the book. It gave you correct answers on what terms mean and so forth.

Check out http://www.car-parts.com

you can search through junk yards and find a used T3 (or other turbo) and intercoolers for low prices.

Good luck. Let us know how it goes.

[Nathan]

assy probably means assembly...the t3/t4E is a little bigger I think, at least on the compressor side.

[corn322]

assy. is short for assemblyno clue what CHRA is short for.

[JESTER]

Yeah thats what confussed me...........

Of course it isn't eaxctly hard to confuse me.

[kevdog240]

CHRA = center housing something assembly. if i remember right that means it is missing something. i dont think you want that but someone correct me if im wrong.

[toki]

heh, i see i see

[Siddhartha]

I think its like a kit type thing, like, you remanufacture a t3 to be a t3/04, but don't quote me on that, I could be wrong.

[Mikel]

CHRA - center housing rotating assembly.

It's thje center housing of the turbo, the part that the oil lines go to that the bearings sit in. It also includes the shaft, the wheels, and the bearings, all assembled, but no housings. Like this:

[MainEvent212]

so teh CHRA is the insides of the turbo?...minus the air routing basically

[keepingthe240]

I have a budget of $2,000. Since i have an automatic, i'm considering a t3,.... 62 trim(compressor wheel) .60 a/r(compressor housing) .....t04b,72 trim (turbine wheel) .82 a/r(turbine housing) What's the price tag to build this turbo??? Any budget cast iron manifolds out there???? What junk yard intercooler should i be choosing??? <-- Is it even worth getting used if i have to pay someone extra to jerry rig it to fit??? Is a spearco 18.5x6x3 big enough for 12-14 lb.boost???

[hannibal]

sideshowBob,I hope you mean a T3 turbine with a T04 compressor. You can find intercoolers in anything from Isuzu NPR trucks to Volvos. You might have to fabricate new end tanks or some creative piping, but I think its probably worth the cost savings. As far as manifolds go, you can find a good deal on Revhard's or F-max on Ebay.

IC infohttp://home.earthlink.net/~tur....htmlhttp://www.thedodgegarage.com/turbo_coolers.html

[keepingthe240]

the compressor housing is .60 a/r t04b Those were good web sites.