Can I haz some help with my CA pleaze

[D3stro]

So, my CA18 run like crap. It all started, one night, after 16h of work and ending coming way too late at home, like, must be the first time ever fell asleep while driving...whatever, some hose for the coolant broke and I've lost all the coolant, went back home like this. blah blah.Not so proud but hey, what's done is done.

So far, the symptoms are that I can't even push the throttle more than the 1/4 orthewise, it's goes like on/off all the time while the rpm still goes up. But the car ''can'' roll, but like crap.

I've double checked , compression, it's good. My coil pack are working, checked twice. Throttle body sensor, everything is all right.

What can it be, someone got a idea according to the symptoms the engine got?

[ca18detgabby]

did you try a leak down tests?

[jynxtrix]

couple of thoughts. check your i/c piping, all of it, then check it again. if you lost all coolant, then that means your turbo did too. Oil alone isn't enough for these little hair dryers. if it pumped out hot enough air, you may have blown or damaged a coupler. if it's like my eclipse piping used to be, that crap was cheap, and got way too hot, way too easy, also, rubber or silicone couplers come off easier the hotter they get, maybe it just slipped off. you may have also cooked the turbo too. Alot of people might disagree with this, but get either an oil system cleaner, or a cup of kerosene and run in the engine for about 5-10 min to break up any coked up oil that may have been left in the turbo after overheating. Then do an oil change. even if there is nothing wrong with the turbo, getting that coked up oil out of there is a good thing. Now, let's see if anybody flames me for mentioning kerosene...~J

[float_6969]

Does it run better,worse, or the same with the MAFS unplugged?

[D3stro]

I've did a leak test 4 times. Founded only one leak and after that, nothing.

About the MAF, didn't checked that, I'll do.

[jynxtrix]

so, did you get this figured out?

[D3stro]

Does it run better,worse, or the same with the MAFS unplugged?

Ok, it's not the MAF. The car just start and stall when it's unplug. Maybe I'll do another leak test with a spray bottle with water/soap in it.

And too, my T25g is totally up to be changed, the overheating just kill it.

[ca18detgabby]

if it wont idle w/ the maf unplugged..........

you may have a timing issue, but I would start with a LEAK DOWN test and check the block out to make sure everything is still peachy.....

[boost_boy]

So, my CA18 run like crap. It all started, one night, after 16h of work and ending coming way too late at home, like, must be the first time ever fell asleep while driving...whatever, some hose for the coolant broke and I've lost all the coolant, went back home like this. blah blah.Not so proud but hey, what's done is done.

So far, the symptoms are that I can't even push the throttle more than the 1/4 orthewise, it's goes like on/off all the time while the rpm still goes up. But the car ''can'' roll, but like crap.

I've double checked , compression, it's good. My coil pack are working, checked twice. Throttle body sensor, everything is all right.

What can it be, someone got a idea according to the symptoms the engine got?

You guys really need to start adding more info besides the fact that the car won't start or it starts and dies. Info such as trouble codes from the ecu, pics of your current set-up, blah-blah. Like I've stated time and time before, most of all your "don't start/won't idle" issues are due to the fact that the set-up isn't wired-up correctly. Just because you got the engine to finally crank doesn't mean that you've had a successful swap. There's so much more to just throwing the engine in and getting it to run and just looking at some of you guys' posts tells me that most are eager beavers that rush through their swaps.

As a moderator, I'm honored to help point you guys in the right direction, but if you don't listen, I'm not at liberty to help. So here's my advice to you: check the codes on your ecu and that will be your starting point. I don't think your issue is with your engine's mechanicals, but more your car's electricals. Your water temperature sensor is more than likely your problem child. If you can't post pics of what you got going on, it's going to be extremely hard to help you. Remember, these cars are at your disposal, not ours, so it would be of the utmost importance to give all the info you can including pics for someone to begin helping you. And lastly, if your intercoole pipes are sealed, it would run if it was hooked-up correctly. If your AFM was bad and you unplugged it, it would still run if it was hooked-up correctly. Please read some of the other threads on this forum to learn about the mess you've gotten yourself into.

Dee