can get it to run, but only with TPS disconnected?

[blueblitzpup]

This is a 1986 Turbo 300zx, was auto but converted to manual.

So first, a little back story. Last summer, my Z was running great. Because it was running so well, I decided to purchase some upgrade parts, such as a larger turbo and an intercooler, among other goodies. EGR has been deleted, as has power steering and air conditioning. I've done an electric fan conversion as well, and have installed a boost gauge and a wideband (which im not sure if I installed too far downstream, is that possible?).

I also rewired my injectors back to pre-service campaign and cleaned up the harness on either side. The FICD was disabled but I retained the AAC.

I had the car running great in the garage, and last weekend I took it out for the first time. It ran great, at least until I hit real boost. I didn't know it at the time, but one of my intercooler pipes popped off and I had a considerably lower amount of power. I limped the car home and had issues getting it to start. With the MAF disconnected, it would start and stay running. I tried a new MAF with no luck, but then discovered that with the TPS disconnected, it would run good again. I tested the TPS and harness, and they appeared to be working properly. Jumping the pins on the harness caused the same result.
I drove the car again as it was and aside from a higher idle, it seemed to be fine. But of course, my TPS should be connected and leave the car running right and so I tried digging some more.

So I referenced the 1986 FSM, and the MAF and harness failed. But later in the manual, the information was contradicted, so I tested against the paper copy from 1989 I have, and then everything tested good. I also checked the TPS again, AAC, air regulator, ecu ground/power, and CHTS. Nothing improved this issue.

With the TPS plugged in, the car will run really rich and at around 500-900 RPM, until the car stumbles enough that it dies. If I u plug the TPS, it will idle up to 1700 or so RPM and run good again. So I'm thinking it has to be something with my idle circuit, but everything tested good, as the manual says.

So now, I'm at a loss. I have tested everything I can think of and am no closer to figuring this out. Do I just run without a TPS forever? Or am I missing something?

[evildky]

The tps for these is basically an on off switch, sounds like it simply needs adjusted.

[blueblitzpup]

Yeah, I know that part, and I have it adjusted to it has continuity when my throttle plate is closed, and loses it when it is open. So this shouldn't be the issue then, right?

[evildky]

hmm, maybe the maf, or maybe the ecu.

[blueblitzpup]

Hmm.. The maf tests good (as does the harness), and swapping the MAF makes no difference..
I don't have an '86T ECU, but I do have one from a '85T, but will that one plug in and work? I know the O2 sensor is a different type.

[evildky]

What happens if you unplug the ficv? The fact that the rpm raises indicated that by plugging the tps in it somehow gets additional air, this would come through the ficv. might be a ficv issue, aslo the wire harness as the a/c should cause the engine to idle up so that circuit could be damaged.

[blueblitzpup]

Nothing happens, but my RPMs don't increase, but rather, they decrease from where they were before I plug the tps in. With how rich its running I'm wondering if its trying to idle up the engine, but manually powering the ficd doesn't improve anything. Its almost like the fuel maps for "idle" somehow got incredibly rich or something..

Because 900RPMs are what I got at idle before this happened, but it didn't run so rich it would die before. Which is why I'm so confused by this

[blueblitzpup]

I don't mean to bump this, but I installed my nistune board so that I could monitor the sensor feedback, and now my idle is correct again. Is it possible that something went awry with the original ROM chip? (Or one of the two, since my ecu had two originally)