Can anyone tell me what these plugs are called and how to crimp new ones?Pic 240

[Acecool]

Fuel injector plugs or something, and does anyone have a diagram of how they should be put in correctly and taken off? Would they be in the Nissan 240SX 1989 Hatchback Service Manual? If so which page or which section? Thanks in advance,Josh EDIT:Ok they are on EL-111 as F12, F14, F18 and F19and are just named Injector no. # But I cannot seem to find a diagram of how to put them together, crimp or whatever. Does anyone know how to do this? BTW the edition of the book is:August 1988Printing: Feb 1989 (02)Publication number; SM9E-0S13U0

[ricebike]

ok, do you mean how the wiring harness is connected to the injectors?

there's this little paper-clip wire thickness thingies that have to be carefully pried off wif a precesion flathead screwdriver w/out breaking the brittle plastic parts...

then, it'll slip/unplug off from the injectors... see MAFs for closer inspection; it has the same type of plug!


Modified by ricebike at 5:52 PM 9/10/2006

[Acecool]

Hey, yeah I got them off, and I put some stuff on their to get rid of corrosion since they were crazy corroded...

But, how can you get the actual wires out of those little plastic things now?

Any help is appreciated, Josh

[ricebike]

wait, you wanna undue the wires from the electrical plugs?

snapon or matco makes those specialty precision tools...to undo those pins from the plug... some1 else can chime in on this.

or just get replacement plugs & cut-n-splice new ones on <shrugs>

PS: i noticed on your pic that you upgraded those vac lines to silicone (the ones for the BPT vavle near the fuel line) +1 since they like to degrade over time... I also noticed that you didn't disconnect that AIV hose to your airbox... do it stat!

put a cheapo breather filter on the AIV box or go JDM & get one of those mini-cone breathers! see blue filter?
Modified by ricebike at 9:46 PM 9/10/2006

[Acecool]

Hey, yeah I was thinking of replacement plugs, but no one knows what they are called so they cant get them or something.. :-(

[ricebike]

crap, other NICOnauts did replaced these things only & spliced it just like i said...

i'm hitting the search button that's flashing up thurr...but, my search skillz suxorz

or they can chime in on this thread...

[Acecool]

Heh, I have been trying for about 6 months to find out what those were called to replace them...

"PS: i noticed on your pic that you upgraded those vac lines to silicone (the ones for the BPT vavle near the fuel line) +1 since they like to degrade over time... I also noticed that you didn't disconnect that AIV hose to your airbox... do it stat!"

Huh?? I am a newbie, I purchased this car about a year ago like that.Work I did:Lower radiator hoseTiming chain with all the other little gadgets that go with itSpark plugs + tune up

The AIV hose? I was thinking about getting one of those cold air intake things with the large cone as it improves gas mileage and all that.. Opinions?

Thanks again man

[ricebike]

it doesn't improve mileage... just makes your engine sound meaner... <shrugs> + you'll have to either eliminate that AIV or put a breather like the one i showed u on that pic

well, in hindsight, some dynoed & it does free up some Hp...

search is your friend in these matters

PS: contact Mike Jones of Midway, a sponsor of this board... as seen on this thread:

click on me!

ricebike-out!
Modified by ricebike at 2:35 AM 9/11/2006

[Acecool]

SOLVED..

I played with the MAF I think it is (Mass AirFlow sensor plug ontop of the stock air filter unit) and it fired RIGHT UP.

Have a rough idle that goes to 500 / 600, but it clears up after a few seconds...

I still need to reattach the "staples" for each of the injector clips and 2 others which I cleaned out.

I am posting this as a resolution for those of you that encounter the same problem..

ALSO... I had it running where it would stall if I went under 1k rpm, and it would rev limit and bounce off of 2500 rpm...

Keywords: rev 2500 stall bog injector fuel spark plug

:-)

Thank you to everyone for allyour help, I am sure I will stay a member and communicate with everyone about other random stuff :-)

Also, can you explain that mini filter idea, I might try that too,Thanks,Josh

[ricebike]

ah, u didn't state your symptoms beforehand... slap!

we would tell you to check the MAFS when you stated those keywords in the beginning...

mini-filter idea? u not using the search button @ all, huh?

well, that is just to isolate any -backflow- from the exhaust stream, making the intake suck water vapor & other exhaust gases contaminate the MAFS & gum up the intake track even more...

i mean the pcv and egr are already dumping some gasses into the intake already...

this is isolated, just in case, that reed-valve in the AIV system goes bad from too much carbon buildup in the reeds...

i think there's a cleaning process in the http://www.240sx.org FAQs section

PS: on your pic, i also noticed the brake master cylinder is a rebuilt... is it leaking a bit?

check your sub frame rail just below all that AIV crap... if the paint's a bubbling/rusting---> you may wanna treat that ASAP

[Acecool]

Hey, I am not quite sure what all that stuff is :-(

What are the pros and cons of removing the AIV and putitng a mini filter on it? also a step by step with pictures would help a lot :-)

I have searched, which is how I solved the start problem, but stuck on a few other things, heh..

[ricebike]

as said on previous posts...

option 1: remove the whole system/plastic square box/vaccuum lines, plugged, big metal reed valve assembly below the brake master cylinder, the metal lines to the exhaust pipe have to be plugged... seems to be too much work?

option 2: remove the s-shaped hose between the big plastic airbox & the smaller square AIV resonator box... bring hose into parts store to get right size cheapo breather filter to fit on hose or go JDM & get the ones pictured above ). CAP the airbox w/ a heater hose cap & clamp so it won't be sucking in hot exhaust air from under the hood...

+

Quote »well, that is just to isolate any -backflow- from the exhaust stream, making the intake suck water vapor & other exhaust gases contaminate the MAFS & gum up the intake track even more...

this is isolated, just in case, that reed-valve in the AIV system goes bad from too much carbon buildup in the reeds...[/quote] it's normal purpose is to introduce some oxygen into the catalytic converter to heat it up faster during warm-up so it'll be more efficient...

going option 1 takes more work d/t all that rusted crap you may have to deal w/ in terms of getting the stuff off... so option 2 was the lazybum's way out & mebbe cheaper in teh long run.

-

there is none---> since the latter years, they got rid of this stoopid setup...

--------------------------------------------

if you wanna keep that hose connected to the airbox, (i have no idea why???)

you can check teh reed valves of that metal part of the AIV; it'll probably be rusted together, like the rest of the bolts around teh exhaust system...

come on, dude, you're not even trying to search!!!! goto here:

http://www.240sx.org/faq/index.html

then click on the topics on the left side... here, i'll hold your hand & put a link directly for ya

http://www.240sx.org/faq/artic...v.htm

[ricebike]

Ace, sorry for biting your head off... i just had a bad week then...

this is for future reference if you're not gonna take the whole AIV system out: (some people do search w/ success & thanked the group for it!)



now, the following pic is a slightly wrong way to hook up a hose:



note: this is on a DOHC engine as seen by the power steering resevoir & valve cover, but u get the idea...

hose C shouldn't have been connected to nipple B cause it'll now backflow past the main ghetto-filter A & straight into the MAFS---> fawking it up as well as putting excess water/exhaust fumes back into the intake tube

i dunno who's car this was, but better disconnect that hose C & put on a matching ghetto mini air filter/breather on it STAT!!!!!!

also helpful to put some ducting near that hole on the left of filter A to draw cool, more dense air into the filter... & should make a simple box lined in some heat wrapping to isolate the filter from the rest of the warm engine bay
Modified by ricebike at 9:52 AM 9/24/2006

[Acecool]

Heh, I just capped both of the holes, the car runs flawlessly when warm, but a little rough when cold.. I will probably change to the NGK blue wires and change the fuel injectors, also remove the entire aiv unit :-)

Thanks