Hi, My local Nissan dealer quoted me ~$10.00/ea for KA24DE valve shims. I'm gonna end up needing them all, which is 10x16==whole lotta dough just for a valve adjustment. Can anyone do any better(shipped to 17701).
Please?
-Slip
Can anyone get a better price for shims??
Re: Can anyone get a better price for shims?? (slipnfall)
I am in the same situation. I have the orignal ones but if I need to make any adjustment in size I dont know what to do. Did you ever find a cheaper source for shims?
Joe
Joe
Re: Can anyone get a better price for shims?? (ps240sx)
Yes actually I did - http://www.midwaypartsteam.com. Roughly $7/ea. Let me know what sizes you'll need, I have 16 extra ones(with verified sizes) that I pulled to do the shimming... it was unfortunate that I needed all new sizes, or I would have re-used some.
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InsanityInc
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Re: (InsanityInc)
Hmm, that's interesting. I know the tool KentMoore sells for removing the shims(with cams still installed) is listed to work on VW's also. I guess as long as the shim is the right diameter(31.9mm IIRC), thickness is thickness...
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deviousKA
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Re: (slipnfall)
Alternate shims such as VW rabbit, bmw motorcycle, and some volvos are used in the ka24de to obtain more shim thickness when regrinding a cam (smaller base circle).
What you need to do to get around buying all new shims when getting your head machined is to have the machinist properly set all of the valve stem installed heights. This is basically required when doing machining to a bucket/shim valvetrain.
With all of the buckets/shims removed, the machinist will measure the distance that the valve stem tip is away from a certain reference (usually the valve guide, unless they are being replaced). The machinist will make note of all of these 16 measurements and then go ahead grinding the valve heads and seats. Once this is done, unless new seats are installed, the valves will sit deeper in the seats and the valve stem installed height will be taller. The machinist should then grind the valve stem tips untill they meet the original measurements, original shim set can then be used.
This requires quite a few more steps than a standard valvetrain during machining and most shops will skip it and just grind the valves.
Probably what happened, it sucks buying parts, remember to tell you machinist to take care of this properly and always leave them with the full bucket/shim set and cams so they can verify their work.
What you need to do to get around buying all new shims when getting your head machined is to have the machinist properly set all of the valve stem installed heights. This is basically required when doing machining to a bucket/shim valvetrain.
With all of the buckets/shims removed, the machinist will measure the distance that the valve stem tip is away from a certain reference (usually the valve guide, unless they are being replaced). The machinist will make note of all of these 16 measurements and then go ahead grinding the valve heads and seats. Once this is done, unless new seats are installed, the valves will sit deeper in the seats and the valve stem installed height will be taller. The machinist should then grind the valve stem tips untill they meet the original measurements, original shim set can then be used.
This requires quite a few more steps than a standard valvetrain during machining and most shops will skip it and just grind the valves.
Probably what happened, it sucks buying parts, remember to tell you machinist to take care of this properly and always leave them with the full bucket/shim set and cams so they can verify their work.
Re: (deviousKA)
Yes you are right, that is what my machinist *should* have done. Basically this was his first nissan bucket-style engine. He was hesitant after working on a suburu engine with shims/buckets that went awry.
I only paid for cleaning, valve guide/seal installation, reseating, and planing/surfacing.
When I first received the head back the cams were *way* too tight. I took it back and explained to him: if you're removing any material from the valves or seats, make sure to grind down the stems as well. So he ground them to get them close enough (on the lose side) without charging me for a full valve job.
So whatever, I let the engine break in, and just forked out the money to do it myself later on.
One question - the shims I received from Nissan had a single hole in each of them? I assume this is a revision to either prevent the shim from 'hydroplaning' on the oil underneither, or to aid in removing the shim(hydro-locking). The part numbers were old, from a microfishe. I looked at the cam lobes, they wouldn't contact the hole they were on the outer surfaces.
I only paid for cleaning, valve guide/seal installation, reseating, and planing/surfacing.
When I first received the head back the cams were *way* too tight. I took it back and explained to him: if you're removing any material from the valves or seats, make sure to grind down the stems as well. So he ground them to get them close enough (on the lose side) without charging me for a full valve job.
So whatever, I let the engine break in, and just forked out the money to do it myself later on.
One question - the shims I received from Nissan had a single hole in each of them? I assume this is a revision to either prevent the shim from 'hydroplaning' on the oil underneither, or to aid in removing the shim(hydro-locking). The part numbers were old, from a microfishe. I looked at the cam lobes, they wouldn't contact the hole they were on the outer surfaces.
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deviousKA
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Re: (slipnfall)
Hmm, ive never seen the shims with the holes in them before on a nissan, thats odd.
They must be for something like the conditions you described, i assume the holes are offset far to the edge? The shims rotate during operation obviously, it might be sketchy to run those with any sort of large profile cam.
Thats to bad about the shims though again, I cant get them any cheaper than $10 per, id say you got a decent deal at least.
They must be for something like the conditions you described, i assume the holes are offset far to the edge? The shims rotate during operation obviously, it might be sketchy to run those with any sort of large profile cam.
Thats to bad about the shims though again, I cant get them any cheaper than $10 per, id say you got a decent deal at least.
Re: (deviousKA)
There was only one hole per shim, and yes the hole was towards the outer edge.. I'd say about 1/4" away. Afterwards I took a look at JWT's cam install pdf: they give part numbers for the different thickness shims. Apparently the part #s I ordered were superceded by another, presumably newer number... and yes the shims are easily rotated while on the bucket.
Like I said midway parts(above) has great prices...I can honestly say they get all of my business for oem parts, unless I need something, you know, yesterday.
Like I said midway parts(above) has great prices...I can honestly say they get all of my business for oem parts, unless I need something, you know, yesterday.
Re: Can anyone get a better price for shims?? (slipnfall)
slipnfall,
I have just don the intake side and so far I need:
1-2.141-2.162-2.182-2.22
All the extra ones I have are 2.34 and above. I still have to do the exhaust side. Let me know if you have thes.
Joe
I have just don the intake side and so far I need:
1-2.141-2.162-2.182-2.22
All the extra ones I have are 2.34 and above. I still have to do the exhaust side. Let me know if you have thes.
Joe
Re: (InsanityInc)
Were can I get these?InsanityInc wrote:Supposedly you can use VW rabbit shims, which are much, MUCH cheaper.