I recently swapped my 1990 240sx I got rid of my ka an got a ca. I ordered the wiring harness from wiring specialties, I first got the engine it looks like it was rebuild all gaskets look new and has an hks cam shaft. I installed the engine and it would turn on good no ticks or nothing smooth but it wouldn't rev past 2k it had no maf I just bought a stock ca maf and installed it and know the injectors are ticking very loud and oil light turned on and the Maf I guess still dose not work it's still in limp mode and it leaks from oil pan
.... Anyone that might know what the problem might be please help thanks

I would first start off by fixing the leak from the oil pan. How much oil are we talking about?
It is normal for the injectors to tick - this means they are working.

As it not revving past 2k is a common symptom of the MAF being broken (or in your case non-existent). I would get some Mass airflow sensor cleaner and clean the MAF element.

I would also check the oil level. I suspect it is a new batch of oil?

Yea I was thinking of cleaning my maf
It does not leak a lot from the oil pan just when I turn it on oil is topped of to the max but their seems to be no oil going to the top of the engine I opened the oil cap and its dry at the cams
Also it gets fludded and have to remove fuel pump fuse to have it turn on
Ill keep u up to date on the maf I just need to get some maf cleaner thanks for the input much appreciated

the oil pump either went bad or your oil filter is clogged
start with the simplest... change the oil and oil filter! DO NOT USE FRAM FILTERS, THEY ARE CRAP!
get a quality Nissan filter, or if you are dealer phobic like some people are, then use Purolator Pure One, Mobil1, K&N, NAPA Gold, Denso, Mann, or Mahle oil filters... half of them found at parts stores, the others you can get online

if the oil is leaking only when the motor is running, you need to check where the leak is coming from... a leak could be from the crank seal and in that case you will need to replace it and the timing belt
you shouldn't be revving the engine or running it much at this point because the noise you're hearing is probably the lifters because there's no oil in the head... you're going to wear out those rare expensive cams and if they seize, you'll have a snapped camshaft

if the MAF is bad, consider using a KA24E MAF for now... it won't run perfectly but it will run... it will run horrible at certain RPM ranges because the profile is different from the CA MAF... you will need to chip the ECU to make it work properly with the KA24E MAF

Thanks TheMan I think that the oil filter is going to be the problem I got one of them fram filters D:

I'm going to make a trip to the auto store and get some oil and filter and some plugs and maf cleaner...

Thanks I really hope that is it!!

inspect your filter closely when you remove it. A fram filter ruined my CA and I had the same symptoms as you. Oil light came on, no oil to the head. The guts of the filter blew into the motor and ruined the bearings and completely ruined the head and the cams.

Thanks float_6969 I hope that's it how can u tell if it is clogged or bad I took it off and going to use a napa pro also I'm having trouble removing the pan because of the oil pick up line.

You have to support the engine and transmission (I use a jack stand on the transmission) and then drop the sub-frame... which means dropping a bunch of other s*** too. It's a pain in the azz to pull the pan with the engine in the car.

Take a picture of the inside of the filter and post it, although if the filter had failed, it should be pretty obvious.

Yea I've been having some trouble with the oil pan took the motor mounts off and jacked it up from the tranny but it seems to be stuck in the back somewhere took all 10 bolts aff and the two from oil sump tube also sway bar

Also would u be able to remove the subframe with car still in the ground I have blocks of wood under the tires

Hey I'm having trouble uploading the photos

you can't drop the subframe with the car still on the ground.

You have to upload pics to a photo hosting site (photobucket, flicker, etc) and then link them here. Put the link between the image tags

Yea I think I am just going to use an engine hoist and lift the motor and move it forward a little

I showed my dad the filter and he said it was fine that's pretty noticeable when they fail so I'm thinking it might be the oil pump

it's not always obvious when a filter fails... cut it open around the rim of the end that screws in and inspect/post pics of it

After reading this post, I have a few concerns that I would like to advise you of. First, you having to remove the fuel pump because of flooding is water temperature sensor or circuitry (code 13) issue which can cause other problems. As for the oil pump, before you conclude that the oil pump is bad, you should hook-up a "REAL" oil pressure gauge to get cold, warm and hot engine readings. Sounds to me like a failing oil pump and if that is the case, I would be more apt to opening up the engine to inspect bearing clearances as well as surfaces. Most importantly, check that the headgasket was not put on backwards. Good luck with that and keep us posted how that goes.

Yea I'm not sure what the problem is before I took the engine out I checked the ecu I was trying to reset it and it gave me code 12 which is I think the maf but the ticking noise I'm still not sure of. Once I took the engine out I was looking at all the hoses their are a couple of them that we're plugged like the one on top of the oil filter.

I'm going to post pictures later today thank you all for the help

cut the filter open, just looking at it from the outside you can't tell if it's bad or not

also, you need better lighting for your pics as it's hard to make out any details... if whatever you're using doesn't have a flash, use a camera that does!

That's a FRAM filter you're holding, isn't it? The wonderful makers FRAM are responsible for me loosing a cyldiner head, all of the bearings in the bottom end, an oil pump, and a set of stock cams. Thier filters are COMPLETE JUNK. If you were going to have an oil filter failure, it would be with a Fram.

you can thank Honeywell for turning Fram into crap... back in the days before my time, they were good filters and everyone loved them... but not since Honeywell bought the brand... people still think they're good based on that reputation, so Honeywell uses that to their advantage: build the filters as cheap as they can and maximize profit... has it worked? yes it did! Millions of this junk is sold every day and some have killed engines, but they're making so much money they can either fight off car owners or pay for their new engines and not hurt their bottom line

it's human nature to be brand loyal and just keep buying the same brand over and over without thinking much about it... everything changes all the time, so do products... we all b**** about outsourcing and chinese made crap all the time, that's proof right there that corporations have profit in mind and not much of anything else... as a smart consumer, products do need to be reviewed/researched from time to time... what may have been good years ago may not be any more or something better has come out

The filter is good. On mine, those paper end caps failed and the whole thing imploded and a bunch of it ended up inside the motor.

The cap zip-tied on top of the oil filter mount is a bad idea. That's the primary route for the crankcase gasses to make it up to the top of the motor so that they can be removed by the PVC system. With it capped like that you'll have a motor that leaks oil profusely, blows out the dipstick, sprays oil everywhere, and ruins the oil quickly because all of those nasty, corrosive gasses, don't have a path to escape the motor. There is SUPPOSED to be an "L" shaped metal tube that goes from that pipe (connected with a reducer rubber coupler), under the intake manifold, up the back of the intake manifold, and connects to the pipe you see on the left side of the the bottom picture. The one near the butterfly valve actuator and the FPR. I'm assuming that line is capped as well? Otherwise it would lose oil like mad.

yeah, that's an important crankcase breather shown blocked off
also check that the oil pickup tube 'seals' where it meets the block and the stainer is clean
I wonder if that restrictor in the oil feed to the head (on the block deck), is still there

As the others have said, bad move on capping off the crankcase's breathing route. Whoever told you to do that was not too knowledgeable on engines or not mechanically inclined. If you have that tube that goes under the intake manifold, put it back on.

Damn thanks guys that's how I bought the engine didn't really think much of it other than that that cap was torn to pices so I put a new one on...
Do u think that might have been my problem for the ticking lifters or should I just reseal the bottom of the eingine with a new oil pump and gaskets?

it's a possibility
but I'd get a NEW oil pump anyway just to be on the safe side... motors cost more than oil pumps!

What if I just put a hose where it's capped off or do I need that metal 'L' shaped tube....

Yeah dash every thing looks clean the seals was still their looked good...

The hose has to reduce. What about that hose on the left side of that picture at the back side of the intake side valve cover.

Yea I was thinking of connecting both of those with a hose the one behind the intake on the valve cover to the one on top of oil filter

Hey guys I'm still in the same bubble I've been researching and don't think I fully understand the timing belt install process what keep throwing me off and scared to do it is that people keep saying removing the valve covers and moving the shaft but I think I got it all lineup with the markings behind the timing cover with 39 cogs in between just need the pulley puller and c if the bottom one is lined up top dead center and its on 0 any ideas :/
Thanks for the help