can a bad IAC cause my car to die/not start? HELP!

Discuss the RB20, RB25 and RB26 series engines.
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ANVIL
Posts: 1133
Joined: Sun Apr 08, 2007 11:36 am
Car: RB25DET S13.5
Location: Alaska

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so yesterday while I was driving home from costco, my car died in the middle of traffic! i was just behind some cars at a red light, idling and the car just died. i tried to crank it and it wouldnt start so i pushed it into the nearest parking lot to check out wtf was up. couldnt find anything under the hood wrong. while i was looking for my cell phone to call up a buddy, i realized i didnt have it. so i was looking/thinking about the problem then tried starting it and it worked. it happened again on the drive home, and i just waited about 5 min and it starts up. im pretty sure my IAC is dirty/bad because when i do hard decel, it will die if i dont tap the gas pedal to give some throttle. can this be the reason why my car keeps dying? if not... what can i check?


AxiOn419
Posts: 263
Joined: Mon Sep 12, 2005 5:52 pm
Car: 1991 240sx SE Super-Hicas w/ RB20DET
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I would verify that your MAF is working properly (clean it as well) and also adjust your TPS, which is likely the reason your engine dies when you deccelerate. Is your recirrculating valve blowing off atmospherically or is it routing back to the intake as it should be? Assuming this is a stock engine setup

Edit: This is also worth mentioning since your car seems to die once it comes up to running temp and then starts up after a brief wait. Make sure you do not have a rusty gas tank. A rusty gas tank will cause all sorts of random power cuts. A rusty tank will cause your fuel pump to overheat due to the filter becoming horribly clogged which results in loss of fuel pressure which results in a car that stops running.

Verify this by either opening your gas tank up, if the gas you see is black then there is your answer. You can also check your fuel pressure when the engine starts acting up.

I suggest everyone checks their gas tank for rust

User avatar
ANVIL
Posts: 1133
Joined: Sun Apr 08, 2007 11:36 am
Car: RB25DET S13.5
Location: Alaska

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well i have been dd the whole summer as it is and this is the first time this has happened. my BOV is atmospheric, its a greddy rs. reason i think its my iac is from this thread:

zer...96812

i havent actually checked it yet though.

but yeah, its a stock setup

AxiOn419
Posts: 263
Joined: Mon Sep 12, 2005 5:52 pm
Car: 1991 240sx SE Super-Hicas w/ RB20DET
Contact:

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Make sure you read my edit above^

Reason I asked about the atmospheric BOV is because that is what could be causing your engine stall issue when deccelerating.

The ECU assumes that the air coming out of the BOV is going back into the engine (because its built stock with a reccirculating valve) but it is not because you are running it atmopherically. This throws off your A/F mix because you now do not have enough air which makes the engine stall.

The recirrculation occurs after the MAF on a stock setup which means the ECU has no way of knowing if the air is being reccirculated or not.

That is what fixed my problem on my rb20, I am assuming its the same for the 25.

User avatar
ANVIL
Posts: 1133
Joined: Sun Apr 08, 2007 11:36 am
Car: RB25DET S13.5
Location: Alaska

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well my car has been tuned, i have a pfc. i doubt my gas tank has rust, its an AZ car. but i will check the fuel pressure.

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ANVIL
Posts: 1133
Joined: Sun Apr 08, 2007 11:36 am
Car: RB25DET S13.5
Location: Alaska

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weird. well i think i found my problem. my gas gauge isnt that accurate anymore for some reason lol. it was getting close to e and i think it was just low. i usually run it til the gas light turns on, i think the light is out or not working. i threw some gas in it and was trying to diag it after and couldnt get it to die. im going to keep driving it and see what happens.

also adjusted my IAC, my idle was at 750 and i raised it to 850 and now i dont have the dying after hard accel problem anymore! haha well ill keep driving it and keep u guys updated if i have anymore "issues"


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