Cams
Cams
About how much additional power can be realized with some 264 step 1 cams on a stock SR (t25). Which cam would be best to keep good idle and decent low end but still be expandable when I get a bigger turbo.
i am doing 264/264 and if u are looking for hks cams good luck i have called like 20 place and heavy throttle the one only people that had then in stock enjuku told me that there were no more in the state for them to get and hks dones not have a eta tell more come in... that is what i got told i dont know if its true.... i get mine on mon i am so happy i will tell u how they work out
Can you let me knwo when you find out? What headwork do you have done? i know it's ported, but what else. i was thinking about also getting the:
Ferrea Valve Spring Kit Kit Includes: Double Valve springs, Titanium Retainers, and Valve Spring Seat Locators.That's $569.99. I'd get that and the 264/264 cams.
Ferrea Valve Spring Kit Kit Includes: Double Valve springs, Titanium Retainers, and Valve Spring Seat Locators.That's $569.99. I'd get that and the 264/264 cams.
-
f150intally
- Posts: 420
- Joined: Fri Feb 28, 2003 3:57 pm
- Contact:
240SXer wrote:Can you let me knwo when you find out? What headwork do you have done? i know it's ported, but what else. i was thinking about also getting the:
Ferrea Valve Spring Kit Kit Includes: Double Valve springs, Titanium Retainers, and Valve Spring Seat Locators.That's $569.99. I'd get that and the 264/264 cams.
If you are going with step 1 264s then save yourself some money. All this stuff is not necessary. They are designed as a drop in replacement for the stock head. Step 2 is recommended to use stiffer valve springs because of the higher lift. But even at that, the ferrea setup is overkill. Why do you need titanium retainers? Rocker arms and hydraulic lifters are more suspect than the factory retainers. Just my .02 cents.
(i'd take hydralic lifters over solid any day of the week)well you wanna get valve springs to avoid "float" and the stock HG has been known to go at 15 psi on the t-25 (alot less cfm than the t3/t4) so u'll definately need a HG.....its BAD to keep the stocker....my buddy blew his HG on his turbo'd mirage.....watergot in the block and then he destroyed his pistons.....BAD!.....the port/polish cost me 163 bucks.....wasnt too bad....just have to wait if the shop is backed up....toook em 2 weeks....
I see.. How much thicker is your HG than stock, will it lower the compression at all? It looks like you've pretty much upgrade just the esentials for the setup you've got. I'll follow your lead since you've obviously done more reasearch than I. I guess i'll get the HG, port/polish (only 160bux!), valve springs, 264/264 cams.. I've already got rocker arm stoppers. That'll be around 1g.... + i'll probably get someone to install it for I have no time.
You did get the hook up on a P&P job. Nice.
I think the way they usually run cams is Step1 dosen't "require" upgraded valve springs. Not to say they aren't a good thing. Step2's require springs due to more lift and step3's require springs and solid lifter/lash adjuster.
93Niss240...why don't you like the solid pivot stuff?
I think the way they usually run cams is Step1 dosen't "require" upgraded valve springs. Not to say they aren't a good thing. Step2's require springs due to more lift and step3's require springs and solid lifter/lash adjuster.
93Niss240...why don't you like the solid pivot stuff?
-
f150intally
- Posts: 420
- Joined: Fri Feb 28, 2003 3:57 pm
- Contact:
93Niss240 wrote:well you wanna get valve springs to avoid "float" and the stock HG has been known to go at 15 psi on the t-25 (alot less cfm than the t3/t4) so u'll definately need a HG.....its BAD to keep the stocker....my buddy blew his HG on his turbo'd mirage.....watergot in the block and then he destroyed his pistons.....BAD!.....the port/polish cost me 163 bucks.....wasnt too bad....just have to wait if the shop is backed up....toook em 2 weeks....
Lets clear up some misinformation here. Don't take this personally. Stiffer valve springs allow you to run higher lift cams without floating the valves. Since step 1 cams are drop in, there is no advantage to having stiffer valve springs. Now if you plan on running higher lift cams, then you can go with springs now. That will save you have to switch that stuff out later.
Stock headgaskets have been known to do fine (with proper tuning) up to about 380-400whp. No need to upgrade the head gasket if you are running a T25.
-
f150intally
- Posts: 420
- Joined: Fri Feb 28, 2003 3:57 pm
- Contact:
93Niss240 wrote:i got hooked up on th port/polish...the HG is 1.2mmIf anything it will raise the compression a little....if u were to shave ur head it would lower it.....
Again more misinformation. A thicker head gasket will always lower the compression ratio, because there is more volume in the combustion chamber.
Shaving the head will always raise compression because you are taking away volume from the combustion chamber.
I'm sure you just had this backward or something. no big deal.
-
f150intally
- Posts: 420
- Joined: Fri Feb 28, 2003 3:57 pm
- Contact:
93Niss240 wrote:I dont need to rev past 8grand....and the hydrlic lifters are better anyways.....unless ur goin full race and wanna revv tp ;like 10 grand
Actually again, this is misinformation. Solid lifters are always more reliable than hydraulic lifters. Why? because they don't rely on hydraulics to operate. There is no hydraulics to "fail."
It is a well known fact in the sr20 tuning world that the hydraulic lifter is the weak point in the SR head when spinning the motor over about 7800 rpm. That is why companies like Tomei have developed solid lifter conversions for the SR20. Just ask two of the biggest SR tuners in the united states, who have both experienced failure due to the hydraulic lifter.
Not trying to start anything here just state factual information.