Camber Question

[240sxHitman]

I'm on my way to gettin my AGX/Sportline set up and I havent thought about Cambers(which i should of) but i wanted to know the best camber to use with that set up?

[Q45tech]

Depends on the design of your tires. Each tire responds differently to negative camber most want -0.5 degrees under all body roll conditions. Unfortunately most suspensions cannot compensate for body roll EXACTLY so one side goes negative and the other more positive.

Too much static camber reduces braking effectiveness because under full braking the front load compresses adding 2,3,4 more degrees of negative camber..........on the rear the same thing happens in acceleration.

Eibachs generally increase static camber by 0.8 degrees per 1.0" of lowering.

[Nismo_Freak]

Too much static camber reduces braking effectiveness because under full braking the front load compresses adding 2,3,4 more degrees of negative camber..........on the rear the same thing happens in acceleration.

Hmm... I need to lower my car more so I can drag my front lip when I brake

[240sxHitman]

well i have stock rims and tires right now so what settin would work best

[Nismo_Freak]

-1 deg.

[240sxHitman]

oh ok thanks and will like the cusco camber kit work well?

[BuudWeizErr]

I run -2 front -1 rear for drift and i love it. so stable.

but it all depends on your car setup, your preferences and what kind of driving you're going to do.

[Nismo_Freak]

He has soft springs so he needs a considerable amount less negative static camber because of the roll. The body roll will create the necessary camber to maintain contact patch. Once he gets a good stiff sway bar setup to match the soft spring rates he can utilize -1.5 deg. or so.

The best method is to take tire temps after an auto-x or road event and make a few diagnostic changes to the camber. You'll notice the tire temps will change over the face of the tire as you change the camber. Your objective is to get even tire temperature over the face of the tire.

The problem is, every time you change the camber you'll need to re-align the toe. Often auto-x'ers will mark the tie rods with paint to give them the correct adjustment for a different camber setting. You'd need to set the camber, then the toe, and mark the tie rod nut location to do this.

[C-Kwik]

Body roll generally adds positive camber to the outside wheels. Especially on struts. Double wishbone and multilink suspensions help reduce this as it pulls the top of the tire inward under load, but it's usually at a lower rate than as the body roll is adding positive camber.

[Nismo_Freak]

Body roll generally adds positive camber to the outside wheels. Especially on struts. Double wishbone and multilink suspensions help reduce this as it pulls the top of the tire inward under load, but it's usually at a lower rate than as the body roll is adding positive camber.

You're right, I got things backwards sorry.

I talk about this stuff all day with customers so sometimes it just doesn't come out right. Brain fried after answering the same questions every day.

[C-Kwik]

We all have brainfarts sometimes. I actually rerear your post several times to make sure you did write it wrong as that was something I didn't expect of you. =)

[240sxHitman]

are the cambers need jus for compitetion purposes or needed period when gettin new struts/lowering springs?

[Nismo_Freak]

are the cambers need jus for compitetion purposes or needed period when gettin new struts/lowering springs?

A small amount of camber actually provides handling stability. Factory specification allows for -1 deg. I believe, which is a safe setup.

As Q45Tech mentioned, alot of the camber can be based on the tire's demands, and the rest on the actual dynamic geometry change of the suspension, which is effected by spring rates, sway bar rates, condition of bushings, you name it. Essentially different speed turns will call for different camber amounts, there actually is alot of time that goes into testing suspension setups for all racing vehicles so it's hard to give a complete answer. Although Q45Tech makes honest, safe, and more than likely proven suggestions, they more or less are for people that daily drive their vehicles. For track conditions and autocrossing, the ONLY correct method to developing ideal camber and toe settings is to adjust, test, take notes, and diagnose the setup based on the notes. Common notes would be understeer and oversteer conditions, current settings, old settings, car feel, tire temperatures (this is key to dialing in the camber), as well as track conditions, and lap mishaps (ie. drifting, locking up the brakes, etc.).

[Nismo_Freak]

are the cambers need jus for compitetion purposes or needed period when gettin new struts/lowering springs?

Camber adjustment can benefit anyone.

[Nismo_Freak]

We all have brainfarts sometimes. I actually rerear your post several times to make sure you did write it wrong as that was something I didn't expect of you. =)

Man, I've been having them more often now... I need some Centrum Silver from Greg.

I think it's just cause at SPL I answer pretty much nothing but suspension questions all day from S13/14 and Z32 owners, which I don't mind one bit. It's just in the repetition I get kinda mind numbed in the end of the day.

[240sxHitman]

damn thats alot of things, but its well worth it for my baby. i thought i was jus gonna be able to get sum Agx's and sportlines, sum tower bars and sway then call it a day. now i gotta learn all these things for the camber kit. well all i can do now is keep savin like i have been

also when im on cardomain i see ppl put sturts and lowering springs and say nuthin bout camber kits, or my be its jus that they do have them jus didnt say that have them