Camber plates with GAB front struts

[kclo4]

Hello guys. This is my first post, and I am hoping somebody can help me out.

I just bought a S14(1995) and it came with GAB suspension and Eibach prokit springs.

He never did anything about the camber, so I am looking into adjustable camber plates for the front. I would like to go with the TEINs because they are less expensive, but the cusco's would be ok if I have too.

I am wondering which camber plates will work with my GAB front suspension. I am having a hard time tracking down info for this application.

Thanks guys.

Paxton

edit: I talked with the guy at techno toy tuning about the camber plates, and he said they would not work with my setup because the car has been lowered. He said the spring perch would rub and it would cause problems.

This confuses me because I have read about people with the KYB AGX, eibach prokit combo with camber plates. Did he think it was lowered more than it really is?

I really want to get my suspension stuff figured out soon. I think that the TEIN and cusco camber plates will work with the GAB shocks presuming the GAB's used stock mounting hardware, but this other problem confuses me also.

The answer to most of these problems is "go coilovers" which is great, but I don't have the money at this time.

If there is any info that I didn't post that you guys need to answer my question I will try to get it for you quickly.

Thanks

[kclo4]

*bump*

I have read through what had to have been 100 posts and can't find much one way or the other for my application.

[atcq110]

I'll trade you my hks hyper d coilovers, where do you live?

[justmerging]

Camber plates should work just fine with your shocks. but IMHO it's not worth the money or the effort. The Camber is not so bad that you go through tires every month is it? If it is you have bigger problems. have an alignment done. Don't tell them it's lowered or they will more than likely charge extra. They will get as close to factory specs as they can which will be good enough. When they tell you that you need this that and the other thing to fix it, say thanks and get in the car and drive away.

I've been riding on my KYB AGX's w/Sportline Springs for close to 2.5 years now. One alignment was all I needed and I have only replaced 1 set of tires(mainly because I bought rims). Seriously, just use the money for something else.

[kclo4]

The previous owner said the tires that were on the car had 15K miles on them and the inside edge was down to the steel belts on one side, and almost on the other. The outside edge looks to have almost all of it's tread. These tires were 17/8.5 wheels with 235 wide tires. On the rears are 17/9.5 with 265 wide tires which were wearing more evenly, but the inside was still bald.

With the way the fronts were wearing I can't actually see there being much of a contact patch, but I don't know.

I haven't got an alignment yet, so I don't know how far they are out of spec now.

Maybe the toe is out of wack or both sides bent almost evenly? The tire wear looked to be at a similar angle on both sides, but the driver side had cut down a bit farther.

My plan was to get the camber plates and have a race alignment shop set me up with a street/race type alignment. I figured the camber plates would help anyway since the car will be ran at the race track often(with any luck). There is no camber adjustment stock so I need something, and the alignment shop guys don't like the eccentric bolts since it is a structural piece.

I don't really want to swap components or anything. I think once I get my alignment the way I want it the setup should be very trackable.

[JNM240]

Remeber, there will be a difference between "track" and "driver". Track alignment could get upwards of -2.0 degrees of camber, which would chew the inside of your tires up extremely fast on the street. Ideally front camber is between -1.3 and 0 degrees, but the more negative you go, the harder you can take a corner. Getting the upper camber plates will help a lot, you can have a shop set it up for street, then when you get to the track, bump the camber negative a little to help with cornering, then put it back for the ride home.

[kclo4]

My concern is still the clearance problem that was mentioned.

Your sure that if I put the camber plates on that I will have some adjustability without hitting anything in the strut tower?

[atcq110]

Do I have to have my wheels off of the ground to adjust my camber plates? My car has way to much right now, I know my tires dont stand a chance.

[JNM240]

Im not sure about the clearance issues, if they are designed to work with stock strut/spring combos, then there is no reason at all it wouldnt work with lowering springs. Lowering springs make the car lower by the springs being shorted, absolutely nothing changes above the upper spring seat. With the camber plates, you are replacing the upper strut mount and gaining the ability to slide the top of the strut in and out, creating more or less camber as desired. There should be no reason that you hit anything, since the plate itself remains stationary. I would say that once you install them, take them to an alignment place that is pretty cool (like me, i love workin on imports, esp if they have tuner stuff on them that make aligning them easier!) and see if the tech can set the front at 0 camber so you can mark it on the plates. Then try and get a reading with the plates maxed out positive and negative, so you have some reference points to play with on your own. Most shops wont jump through these kind of hoops for free, so be nice, be polite, and be prepared to pay extra.

I just purchased some JIC upper camber plates, but am having problems installing them (they were used, and probably missing peices). If i can get them to work, i will be all set. JIC rear upper control arms for rear camber, JIC tension rods for front caster, and JIC upper mounts for front camber. Complete adjustability coming soon!

As for adjusting them once installed, you will want to have most of the weight off the wheel you are adjusting. If you leave the car flat on the ground and loosen the adjusting bolts, get ready for them to slide all the way negative under the weight of the car. So lift the corner by the frame or crossmember to remove weight from the wheel (think of letting the weight of the wheel pull the top of the strut out, making positive camber....).

Hope this helps!