Post by
G4nismo »
https://forums.nicoclub.com/g4nismo-u98190.html
Mon Jun 09, 2008 6:00 am
well i know i'm running at least -1.5 camber right now cause i can just tell by looking at it and i pulled the knuckle out almost all the way and then tightened the strut bolts. sure its great for track but highly do not recommend it as it eats your tire fast.
i'm actually getting it realigned wends to factory specs, with factory minimum front camber. i wouldn't trust those camber kits, i never really mess with them. just get it professionally done and have them you give the alignment report when their done.
heres the factory specs by the way:FRONT WHEEL ALIGNMENT
Camber, in degrees.-1.00 Minimum-0.25 Nominal+0.50 Maximum+0.75 Maximum left and right difference
Caster, in degrees+2.00 Minimum+2.75 Nominal+3.50 Maximum+0.75 Maximum left and right difference
Kingpin inclination, in degrees+13.50 Minimum+14.25 Nominal+15.00 Maximum
Total toe-in distance, in millimeters+1 Minimum+2 Nominal+3 Maximum
Total toe-in angle (left plus right), in degrees+0.09 Minimum+0.18 Nominal+0.27 Maximum
REAR WHEEL ALIGNMENT
Camber, in degrees-1.75 Minimum-1.00 Nominal-0.25 Maximum
Total toe-in distance, in millimeters-3 Minimum+1 Nominal+5 Maximum
Total toe-in angle (left plus right), in degrees-0.27 Minimum+0.09 Nominal+0.43 Maximum
The rear wheels aren't adjustable, and the front toe is the only spec specified for adjustment from the factory. Camber is the most important spec on our cars alignment, and if it's not perfectly even on both sides you tend to get a slight pull. If the mechanic is a cool person, they will adjust your lower strut bolt to adjust the front camber.