Cam sprocket came off on SOHC, not 56k friendly.

[sil80drifter]

This thread is a continuation of this one:zerothread?id=132756

Quick background: after rebuilding my SOHC, and solving the few problems it had at startup, my cam bolt came off 7 miles into the breakin, during operation with all the great benefits of such an event. Here are the pics:

I guess the SOHC DOES have an oil squirter in the block for the timing components, it’s sad that I had to find it in the oil pan. Is there any way to replace it with another? Will I have to drill that leftover out and tap another fitting type thing into the block?

The driver’s side timing guide got bent.

Cylinders look fine, they even have the honing marks still rough, no glazing.

Piston #3 has been hurt (3 marks) but not badly at all, and piston #1 has light scuffing (one mark on it, is that irony or what?).

Exhaust valve #3 won’t close all the way (bent valve) which I’ll be replacing, valve #1 is OK (closes fine and compression seems good), but I’ll replace it anyway. I only hope that the valve guides are not damaged, although they probably are which means I’ll have to have someone install the two valves professionally and buy the valve guides as well. Unless you guys know that one can install valve guides on one’s own. Never done it, but then again I’ve never rebuilt an engine before this year either so…

The headgasket looks fine, and since it’s brand new I’ll be re-using it.

So what do you guys think? Besides me needing to ALWAYS check if all of my bolts (especially the cam one) are on tight and use Locktite on them? Do you think I can get the timing oil squirter replaced? Retapped? Will I be able to install valve guides myself?Any other comments or suggestions?

sil80

[kahren]

your valves have hamburgers drawn on them

[180fan]

You can pull the oil squirter bits out with a slide hammer. give it a twist before trying to hammer it out.

[sil80drifter]

Pulled the head, replaced the two valves (had spares, whoo!), ripped that damn oil squirter out with a tap, put another one in from a spare block (whoo whoo!), put the head back on, used a enw HG (you got to me Fiz) will try to have the whole thing back up again tomorrow. I'll be locktiting the crap out of that cam bolt this time tho.Yeh!

sil80

[deviousKA]

sil80, sorry to hear the bad news, sounds like youve got it under control though.

The piston tops where the valves hit look ok you shouldnt experience any piston problems. If you havent already slapped the head on, you might want to knock down any of the sharp edges on those nicks. Use a file or similar tool and just make them smooth.

A new headgasket is a wise choice, do it 2 times not 3! Use a large screwdriver to shove in one of the cam gear holes to hold it while you torque, you dont need loctite just get the full spec on it, and make sure your cam bolt washer is in good shape (no spreading)! Spread cam bolt washers can cause a repeat scenario, ive seen it alot on nissan sohc.

[sil80drifter]

The new cam sprocket (from autozone) had no holes in it liek the stock one (I guess it's heavier because of that) and I had to tighten it once the chain was already on and the cam wouldn't move because I put the car in gear.Oh man did I tighten it, lol. If it comes off after that, I'll buy a Skyline and die in debt.I touched the scuffs on the pistons, they were barely noticeable (the pics make them look worse) and I didn't read your post in time so I haven't rubbed any edges down (but really there isn't much to rub at all).

Here is the new thread w/more pics (and a running 240!):zerothread?id=133862

Thanks guys!

sil80

[deviousKA]

Awesome

engine looks great man, Id comment a bit more but i gotta jet. You might want to check your temp sensors connection, and those vac leaks as well to see if those are causing the rich issue.