Cam shaft timing issue code P0014, P0300

[Pimperish1]

So this happened, kinda detailed cause I did a search and these codes don't appear in the forum. Started the car and noticed the exhaust tone was lower than usual and the idle was rough. Got on the highway and while it still sounded rough it seemed to drive fine. That was until I attempted a WOT downshift and it was like hitting a wall. Felt like the traction control had yanked my leash but the RPM's just wouldn't climb past 4K and just bounced when I pushed the issue, car was bucking, just a plain NO! No MIL light at this point. Drove from Hartford to New York and when I got off the exit in the BX the MIL light started to flash but only at a stand still. Once I started to move it went out. Parked for all of 30 mins then started the trip back to Hartford (was a quick and simple kind of run). Got on the highway and now I had a steady MIL light but no wall on WOT downshifts. Car seemed to drive fine even when I pushed. I scanned it once back at home and got a P0300 (multiple random misfire) and P0014 (Cam shaft control solenoid B- Bank 1- timing over advanced). Cleared the code and car sat for a week. When I started it, again with the gruff and rough idle, got on the highway and it again yanked my chain but this time it was whenever I attempted even a two gear step down. RPM's bouncing, car bucking, till I backed off. Parked it over night and next morning again with the gruff and rumble, drove 100 feet (about) and hit the wall at 20 mph after stopping at a red. MIL was steady then blinking then steady. I lost track of the WTF's in verbalization. I then drove 20 miles back to my house in "limp mode" unable to get the car above 20 mph (not in manual modeexcept for a few times when I was able to nurse it ever so gently to about 50. Apart from those exceptions RPM's would just bounce and I would be doing the roll and jerk down the street till I backed off. Got home and again p0300 and p0014.

So here's the legwork, bank one is driver's side on the V8's. (Shop foreman told me it's reverse of the V6, looking at both engine fire diagrams bank one seems to correspond with what ever bank houses cylinder 1 in the fire order). This cam shaft adjustment solenoid or VVEL actuator sub assembly sits in the back on each side against the firewall. $800+ part which comes with the VVEl control shaft position sensor because they both have to be replaced at the same time (kudos to you guys having the service manuals on here, BOSS move. lol.) Anyway, tough pill to swallow so I kept digging. Turns out this actuator uses the engines motor oil to work its magic, uses it like hydraulic fluid and dirty oil can cause malfunction. (reference: https://www.autocodes.com/p0014_infiniti.html).

Well... Infiniti did a timing chain recall last September and while they did do an oil change (evidenced by my normal K&N filter being swapped for the generic nissan "??" filter, I don't think they drained the oil and refilled it to make sure it wasn't contaminated given the extensive work they just did. I mean, considering the tech left a pry bar in my engine bay which luckily found itself wedged in the inner lip of my front bumper and all (the images that ran through my head of what might have been kinda still have me boiling). Also I recently switched to "tri clean" certified gas which is supposed to have three times the detergents to clean all the gunk out of the engine that much better. So between the contamination from the shop work and the cleansing of my engine innards my guess was the oil was ripe for a change. Anyway, car was due for an oil change, I run Mobil-1 0-40 and recently 0-30 and a fresh K&N every 5K. The reminder had popped up the week before but I put it off. As the recommendation is that you change the oil first before shelling out 8 bills I was happy to start there.

Result: Initial start up mirrored the last few and my test drive was cut short 30 feet out the drive way. Backed her in and cleared the code...again (apparently its the quick and easy to cancel "limp mode". Sat there and revved the engine which over time revved smoother and higher without bouncing. When I was finally able to get it revving up to 6K smoothly I attempted the road again. Drove 20 miles on back roads and while WOT downshifts still gave the occasional leash yank I had no codes. Got on the highway and she did well up to 120 so long as I didn't try WOT. Pulled into the gas station and topped off, pulled out and after the first light came the hiccup and the MIL light came on solid (wanna talk about pissed?). Anyway, no limp mode. Got on the highway and it was like coming back from NY that time before, WOT downshifts, 120+ on the speedo, she gave no issue. Got home and this scan showed a hard p0300 and another p0300 pending as well as a pending p0014. I cleared the MIL and planned to drive it a few laps then do another oil change (oil only), maybe two. Will update once those are done or if anything changes but today when I started her up she sounded pristine and revved smooth all the way to 6K+.

Thoughts, opinions, commentary?

[Ilya]

I'd start with the basics. Honestly I'm at work so didn't read the entire post just skimmed it for keywords...so apologize if I missed anything.

Remove the cam/crankshaft sensors and clean them (they are usually covered in a film of metal shavings, oil, etc.).

Then, make sure your MAF's are good. Those things are VERY sensitive and have a tendency to cause the exact limp mode (flashing CEL and all) like you experienced. Had one go bad on my ol 99 Maxima...same symptoms and did the same troubleshooting (cleaning the sensors).

[Pimperish1]

My K&N air filters are due for their annual post winter cleaning so that is on the list as well.

[Ilya]

I personally would stay away from K&N filters due to their oils. Some will say they have no issues but that's actually what killed my MAF on my 99 Maxima. I only use non-oiled paper filters now like Purolator, etc. I just change them more often (15kmi). The oil has a tendency of gunking up the MAF sensor wire, causing the issues.

And before anyone comes in here defending K&N...the K&N filter I had on my Maxima was the factory pre-oiled one...so it wasn't the case of me over-oiling it after a cleaning. That thing was brand new out of the box, 5-6kmi later my MAF crapped out on an otherwise impeccably maintained Maxima.

[Frog]

Had k&n for 75000 miles no problems.

[Ilya]

Well to each his own. I will stay far away from their car filters...I ain't the only one who's had MAF issues. Google is chalk full of examples.

[ssmrico]

on the 56-37 where are the crank shaft sensors at?

mafs are easy I know that one lol

[Ilya]

on the 56-37 where are the crank shaft sensors at?

mafs are easy I know that one lol

Not sure, but probably listed in the FSM.

[armybrat]

on the 56-37 where are the crank shaft sensors at?

mafs are easy I know that one lol

Bottom of the cylinder block, facing the gear teeth of the signal plate. Also a good reference for all of your trouble codes.

http://www.nicoclub.com/service-manual? ... 012%20M/EC

[ssmrico]

thanks

[Pimperish1]

So, took her out tonight. Startup and idle were smooth and that smoothness continued all the way up to 130 on the speedo. No MIL light either. I still have to do those follow up oil changes though. I think the oil change cleaned out the channels in the Cam shaft adjustment actuator and remedied my issues.

[SnowNYC1]

at school right now, but bump on this topic. going through same problem now. will elaborate more later on guys

[Pimperish1]

I should have updated this earlier but here goes....

I was mistaken about the location of the cam adjustment solenoid. The issue returned after my oil changes and I ended up taking it into the dealer. Turns out the solenoid is on the front of the motor and not in back near the firewall. I misread the diagram.

Before taking it in I had cleaned and swapped the MAF's to be sure and it made no change. Dealer replaced the bank one solenoid and the issue went away. I had a brief repeat and when I took it back they said this time it was the same issue but on bank two.

I already felt that they left dirty oil in the engine after the timing chain service they did prior to my issue and this caused the solenoid to fail, so I was more than apprehensive (the solenoid uses oil pressure from the crank case to work. Dirty oil will clog it and cause the malfunction). I voiced my suspicion on the coincidental repeat and pretty much accused them of screwing with my car. Told them to clear the code and hand me my keys. Problem hasn't resurfaced since....go figure.

[satown210]

Failure of the actuators generally come from long term neglect in oil changes. Not from one single incident.

[Pimperish1]

I'm pretty religious with my oil changes. Every 5000, Mobil 1 synthetic and k&n filter. I'm convinced they didn't do a fill and change after the timing belt service, leaving bits floating about in my oil. The tech was carless enough to leave a pry bar knocking about under my hood so for me it's not a stretch of the imagination.

When I say I'm done with Infiniti it's not for a lack of love of the car. I refuse to obligate myself to deal with subpar, shady service. This dealer was s*** when I initially started my search pre-purchase and have continued to galvanize my distrust ever since.

[satown210]

If your timing CHAIN or tensioners came apart, something small enough could of made it into the actuator, that is possible. Unlikely but possible. Oil filter should of caught it. Knowing how timing chains and tensioners are done I don't see a real direct link between that and an actuator failure. Even if the oil wasn't changed after the repair.

Or a part could of failed. Parts break all the time.

[SnowNYC1]

yeah unfortunately i have to agree with pimperish... The dealership literally left a mess in the engine bay,they left my coolant hoses leaking after they did the recall, none of the wiring harnesses were back into the clip on spots, and i didn't even get most of my plastic pins back to keep the big intake and grill connected to the car. I don't drive too often because of work and school. when i had my timing chain done in march i didn't change the oil because the dealer apparently did that during the recall service. I did a oil change yesterday with a buddy of mine and what did i find? HOLY CRAP the oil is darker than my car and the filter wasn't even screwed in all the way! i'm no mechanic but i don't think that 6.5 quarts of "new" motor oil should be darker than my KH3 paint after 1k miles.

[Pimperish1]

If your timing CHAIN or tensioners came apart, something small enough could of made it into the actuator, that is possible. Unlikely but possible. Oil filter should of caught it. Knowing how timing chains and tensioners are done I don't see a real direct link between that and an actuator failure. Even if the oil wasn't changed after the repair.

Or a part could of failed. Parts break all the time.

I hear ya.... Not discounting the possibility but based on my experiences with these guys I absolutely cannot discount thier propensity for s****t.

We're talking about a dealer that turned me off so bad I picked up my deposit afyer working a 12 hour overnight and drove over 200 miles away to buy my car in another state. At this point I'm beyond done with them. Service reps looking me square in the face telling me my Bluetooth connectivity issues we're due to satellite problems, snapping stuff under my hood with neither a mention much less to repair THIER damage, recommending that I cut apart my rear suspension to resolve a seized bolt with out even recommending it trying a penetrant first, the list goes on... Yo, F*CK those guys....