Calling All Wideband Users

Discuss topics related to the CA18DE and CA18DET series engines.
Ca_Silvia
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I just installed my AEM UGEO Wideband and i am interested to hear what other CA members get in terms of A/F readings. Right now my motor is 140psi compression across the board and 16-17in/hg @ idle. I know its not perfect but... its what i got. I run an SR turbo boost to 10 psi with intake and exhaust, bone stock otherwise.

At idle im getting 13-14 AFR

WOT im starting @ 10 AFR (lowest it reads is 10) then as rpm rise it goes up to 11.4 by 7000rpm.

As soon as i let off the throttle completly no matter what rpm it goes full lean (18+)

Cruising at 100kph its 13.7AFR

I know it runs a tad rich as i can smell it and i know these AFR numbers are not spot on but i wanna know if this is normal or a little off. Please let me know what you guys get for AFR's.


usdm_180sx
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Ca_Silvia wrote:I just installed my AEM UGEO Wideband and i am interested to hear what other CA members get in terms of A/F readings. Right now my motor is 140psi compression across the board and 16-17in/hg @ idle. I know its not perfect but... its what i got. I run an SR turbo boost to 10 psi with intake and exhaust, bone stock otherwise.

At idle im getting 13-14 AFR

WOT im starting @ 10 AFR (lowest it reads is 10) then as rpm rise it goes up to 11.4 by 7000rpm.

As soon as i let off the throttle completly no matter what rpm it goes full lean (18+)

Cruising at 100kph its 13.7AFR

I know it runs a tad rich as i can smell it and i know these AFR numbers are not spot on but i wanna know if this is normal or a little off. Please let me know what you guys get for AFR's.
Keep running rich and the o2 sensor will blow. Wide bands are useless unless they are reading a well tuned motor.

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themadscientist
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Wherever you are making maximum power, with a little extra fuel dialed in over that for safety. Tune on the dyno.

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campground man
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I've got the AEM UGEO also on mine and am running 10 psi on a stock engine - the thing is, my car is just now getting tuned so I won't know anything on it until this week coming up.

Buddyworm
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That's pretty standard AFR's for a stock tune. Especially in the higher load ranges. Nissan's maps are really very conservative.

Ca_Silvia
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Campgroundman please update this thread once you get you car back.

Buddyworm that is a little reassuring but the car running rich isn't exactly a surprise. The fact it goes to +18 (lean) completly off throttle is though.

I am also finally dropping in my ecu, injectors and Z32 maf early next week so i am interested to see how that tune looks on the wideband. I just wanted to see if my numbers right now on a stock tune were "safe"

articzap
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As soon as you let off the gas in any car it will go stupid lean. Thats normal.

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float_6969
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It's supposed to go lean when you let off the throttle. They do that to save fuel. There is absolutely no need to keep a rich or stoich AFR on throttle lift.

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Woods Crasher
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It goes full lean because on 0% throttle on decel in gear the fuel injectors are actually not firing. ECCS does this above 1500 or 2000 rpms or something(most moder fuel injected cars do this). So your wideband is going to read full lean.

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Cams
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Those are really similar readings to what I get on my Wideband, and my CA is what UK guys call an un-tuned Pre-facelift CA, as my ECU doesn't have/use any sort of O2 sensor feedback to control the mixture.

I have seen as low as 11.1 at WOT, and was also worried about going lean off the throttle but then found out that is a normal reading.

Next step for me will be an H-Dev chip to run 12.5psi on my t25g and 370cc inj.

XTCshri2222
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^^ 11.1 is rich, however you should be at like 9-10a/f at wot on a CA, the higher the number the leaner, the lower the richer, alot of people get it backwards because of the colors on the a/f gauge.

Blackened
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try to set the afr on wot at 11.5 and 12 between 3000 and 7000 rpm. And if you have a safc or something try to set it at third gear. Also watch the egt if you have a gauge. afr-egt and safc are a must for boosted 240's.

Ca_Silvia
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I just wanted to update this for anyone searching or having issues in the future. I replaced my stock o2 sensor with the replacement peice mentioned in the stickies.AFR dramatically got better.

14.6-15.3 at idle

11.3-11.8 at WOT at all RPMs

and best of all no "rich" smell anymore. So if you haven't done it yet replace that sensor.

DALAZ_68
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Ca_Silvia wrote:I just wanted to update this for anyone searching or having issues in the future. I replaced my stock o2 sensor with the replacement peice mentioned in the stickies.AFR dramatically got better.

14.6-15.3 at idle

11.3-11.8 at WOT at all RPMs

and best of all no "rich" smell anymore. So if you haven't done it yet replace that sensor.
could u please show me to what part u replaced...i just got a Uego gauge and i wanna install on my CA

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r34 gtr
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He replaced the 02 sensor. Go look at the FAQs section for the part number.

I'm curious why my engine idles at such a low AFR. It just doesn't want to idle anywhere higher than 12.2:1, but it idles so glassy smooth I can't bear to mess with it. I mean, I'm not running any kind of factory tune, but just curious as to why its like this. Any higher than 12.2 and it runs like crap.

Ca_Silvia
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My car idles at 12~ when cold, once warm its 14.7-15.2

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float_6969
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XTCshri2222 wrote:^^ 11.1 is rich, however you should be at like 9-10a/f at wot on a CA, ...
I don't agree with this at all. 9-10:1 is WWWAAAYYYY too rich for ANY motor. You'll start washing the oil off the cylinder walls at those AFR's.

Leaner is better until you start loosing power, or detonating. If you have to run super rich to keep from detonating, you're running too much boost for the amount of timing that you're running.

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float_6969
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r34 gtr wrote:I'm curious why my engine idles at such a low AFR. It just doesn't want to idle anywhere higher than 12.2:1, but it idles so glassy smooth I can't bear to mess with it. I mean, I'm not running any kind of factory tune, but just curious as to why its like this. Any higher than 12.2 and it runs like crap.
Mine does it too Tim. I think it's because we're not using any sort of idle control. I THINK (I have nothing to back this up with) that the stock ECU modifies the timing, idle air control pulse width, and fuel to keep the idle stable, while maintaining stoich. AFR's.

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r34 gtr
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That would make sense. I read somewhere that some older EFI engines like these prefer idling well below stoich, so I never really gave it a second thought. Good to know its not just me!

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float_6969
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IIRC, if I put the SDS into closed loop at idle, I could get the idle stabilized if I screwed with the timing, but it was real finicky with engine temp and air temp. I gave up and just made it run as lean as I could at idle w/o effecting idle quality.

DALAZ_68
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XTCshri2222 wrote:^^ 11.1 is rich, however you should be at like 9-10a/f at wot on a CA, the higher the number the leaner, the lower the richer, alot of people get it backwards because of the colors on the a/f gauge.
i see it as yellow good, green is ok but can get better, red is DANGER DANGER WILL ROBINSON...DANGER!

yeah i just go tmy WB hooked in ill let u guys know my numbers when i get a chance, getting nistune probably today and i got my nismo FPR last night and gauges coming ASAP...

im debating on getting the EGT gauge though

Anu
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Mine is running iddle at Afr 16.1, wich is lean, but as I understand it this is not so much a problem, since the engine is not under load. Under boost it runs on 11.4 / 11.5, this is with a GT2554r and a Hdev stage 1 chip. On lifting the throttle it also goes to around 18, wich is normal.

Still need to hook up the Apexi S-afc, I heard that when you are adjusting the fuelmap with a piggyback, its better to disconnect the narrowband O2 sensor, to prevent that the signal from this sensor will undo the changes made with the piggyback.(dont know how to explain it better in English, sorry :P)

DALAZ_68
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so idle is around 10.5

:-( rich up the ***, but then again, for what ever reason, i have like 3 idles, 1500,1000, and 800

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Cams
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10.5 is somewhat rich at WOT, and I'd say there is something just wrong if you get that at idle and you are not using some special engine management like the ones stated above.

If I were you I'd check timing, engine temp sensor, tps, IAC and ECU codes for more pointers.

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ard
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9.0:1 BLACK SMOKE (NO POWER)11.5:1 RICH BEST TORQUE @ WOT12.2:1 SAFE BEST POWER @ WOT13.3:1 LEAN BEST TORQUE @ WOT14.6:1 STOCHIMETRIC AFR ( CHEMICALLY CORRECT )15.5:1 LEAN CRUISE16.5:1 BEST FUEL ECONOMY (EXCEPT FOR HONDA MOTOR COMPANY)18.0:1 CARBURATED LEAN LIMIT (EXCEPT FOR HONDA MOTOR COMPANY)22.0:1 EFI LEAN LIMIT

local tuner suggested:12 on heavy load,12.2 on mild load,12.6 on partialy no load.

DALAZ_68
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ima go nistune, and dyno, pretty sure ill help...

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ard
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depends on engine, but if it is CA, then nistune imho is the best on price/performance. and fastest


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