Calling ALL SR20 freaks!!!!!!!!!!!

For the RWD SR20DET cars! Sponsored by Wiring Specialties.
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JayPat83
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I know for years i have dogged all of you to death and made fun of you guys but guess what????? I have seen the light. The SR is the motor that you can get the biggest bang for the buck. I am looking to get around 400 whp with whatever swap I do and researching I have found the SR to be the cheapest. Am I not correct? This is the list I have so far:

Stock internalsARP headstudsCometic headgasketGreddy rocker arm stopperssome sort of camsGreddy oil panGreddy intake manifoldV-mount setup with Koyo radiatorsome kind of turbo manifold for my externally wastegated T3/T4550+ injectors on a top feed railfuel pumpwhole lot of boost: 15psi+

Have I left anything out? Money is not an issue. I just need to know some opinions from you experts that already have the SR and know what it needs to achieve this goal of 400 whp


IvoryJ30t
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im going to doubt that you can achieve that on pump gas.

for that power level your gonna have full spool at around 4500 rpm.

you have left out a few thousand in parts.

i wonder if the stock sr will tolerate close to 500 hp. i have no sr experience, but i doubt it.

it depends. are you trying to put down 400 on a dyno or are you trying to drive 400 whp on a regular basis?

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JayPat83
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oh there are plenty of people that get over 400 on stock internals.

IvoryJ30t
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you didnt answer the all important question.

making 400 whp on a dyno is much different from making 400 whp on a daily basis.

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JayPat83
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oh, this car is a weekend driver. sorry i didn't answer off bat.

s13sr20chris
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what kind of t3/t4 do you have? im thinking more than 15psi. alot more. should be a good weekend power level with good tuning. i dont think just a jwt ecm or a box like hks afr/apexi safcII will be good enough at that level. the record(last i heard) is 601 at the wheels on dyno with stock bottom end. i dont think that motor will last but i think 400whp could be an everyday car with the right tuning.

SeVa-S13
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I would not trust a stock SR block to make that power for long. ATLEAST spend some money on pistons.

And an EMS will get you there alot easier and more reliably.

IvoryJ30t
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just for comparison purposes, boost wise-

im gonna be building an rb25 s14 for a friend.

if my calculations are right, im gonna need around 18 psi for 380 whp. that is on a 2.5L motor with a t04s compressor [GT30R 52 lb/min]


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JayPat83
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i was gonna do an rb25 until i found out the motorset 1/2 cut was gonna be $3600 and i found an sr20 for $1400 shipped.

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JayPat83
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oh and by the way there is a + beside the 15 people i didnt say only 15 psi did i? NO

robbbby
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It is very doable.Guys are putting down close to 400 at the wheels on .86 gt2540R's, I don't see why it can't be done and be reliable.

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JayPat83
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i wonder what hp my new t3/t4 is rated to?

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JayPat83
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oh and the guy that is helping me has a built 4AGE in his ae86 with 13:1 comp. and over 200 whp so he knows how to build motors.

GTS4-R
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i made 440rwhp on 21psi 100 octane STOCK BOTTOM END..... Scott Avoy made 539rwhp with an untouched bottom end too.....just run high octane above 18psi to avoid detontation.....and dont run high boost all the time.....u should be fine

My t3/t4 was only rated at 450hp (flywheel i think) and i made that at the wheels....enjuku made 496rwhp (they had a standalone and 850cc vs. my ecu tune/safc and 740cc's...everything else is the same) on the same turbo before switching to the sc-61....now theyre up at 544rwhp....lemme just say sr's love boost.....

But RB25DET owns joo....ive been for a couple of rides in rb25 s13's and now i want one...

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240Kuminachu
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Bang For The Buck? Bro dont go into this with that mindset.. Your 400hp wont last if you dont do it right, a.k.a. try to save money. HP is expensive, a word to the wise, if your gona do it, you better do it right the first time. A $1,400 SR is gona have some missin parts.

Good Luck.

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getnrowdy23
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Car: '95 sr20det 240sx se/2004 suzuki sv650s

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as the old saying goes "hp costs money, how fast do you wanna go?"... it does cost money, losts of money, but the man did say money wasnt an issue... if money isnt an issue i would go with the RB. but being that you arent going to do that, the front mount v mount will not be cheap. what kind of dp/exhaust you going to get? dont be cheap.. do it right the first time, blowing stuff up costs a whole lot more in the long run... dont forget to get dual fans or something like that...heat kills turbo cars, oil coolers are nice too, but not a must have. good luck bro... bring that bi!ch to so. GA when you get it done. or hell i will go see you! =)

240SXer
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I plan on putting down close to 400whp on stock internals. .86 a/r GT2540R.. Right now i'm getting my ecu tuned... I drive my SR 15-20k miles a year.

Ya, you don't have to drive around with it at 18psi all the time. I'm going to run mine at around 11psi around town, then when someone rolls up 18psi, and for those special nights 22psi on racegas

I should only be around 330-340whp stock everything except Fuel and turbo


s13sr20chris
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240SXer wrote:Ya, you don't have to drive around with it at 18psi all the time.
just as easy as turning boost down would be keeping your foot out of it some. its only at 18 psi when you let it get there.

f150intally
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I agree with this post.... Remember grasshopper:

You can have any two of the three following, but not all three.

1. Fast2. Reliable3. Cheap

It can be fast and reliable, but it won't be cheap. It can be cheap and reliable, but it won't be fast. and it can be fast and cheap, but not reliable then.
240Kuminachu wrote:Bang For The Buck? Bro dont go into this with that mindset.. Your 400hp wont last if you dont do it right, a.k.a. try to save money. HP is expensive, a word to the wise, if your gona do it, you better do it right the first time. A $1,400 SR is gona have some missin parts.

Good Luck.

nismostate
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f150intally wrote: and it can be fast and cheap, but not reliable then.
that'll be considered a DSM. imo, just get the motor running and then start worrying about more power.

240SXer
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s13sr20chris wrote:
just as easy as turning boost down would be keeping your foot out of it some. its only at 18 psi when you let it get there.
By the time it hits 5k it'll be at 18psi, all the time. How can I avoid that and actually drive my car decently. I mean, I can drive without it spooling, but passing @18psi won't be fun, and turning out in front of people and those things that require power. 18psi will be too much power.


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