I need a favor? Boot up ECU Talk again while in your car. Turn on ALL of the gauges. Take a friend with you and get the car up to temp, 178 is where I was at. Go out on some open road and take it up to 60 mph/2K rpm in D (overdrive) and keep it there. I set cruise on mine. Do a screenshot and post it. Please put it on MPH and gallons, not liters, so it'll match better to my screenshot.
I'm trying to diagnose my car but I'm not sure where the gauges are when everything is ok. Make sure you don't have any codes. Check then with ECUTalk before the test.
I would really appreciate it! I installed a resistor in place of one of my knock sensors tonight and the code never came back on. With any luck that will help my emission test.
FYI Here is the screenshot I am trying to compare. This is with the knock sensor bypass resistor in place been since last night and still no knock fault yet so I think I've got it fooled.
Calling all consult cable owners, need assistance
Re: (qsiguy)
could you post the ecutalk log (obviously use the log option)? much easier to check things with that
basically with knock sensor trick, you just need to check out timing and make sure its generally 10+ deg BTDC... BUT, the only problem is that ive seen quite a few consult cars which read timing wrong! 50+ BTDC is too much, but thats cause the ecu mustnt be reporting it the same way other cars do. find out what it reads at idle, compare to stock static timing, and thats probably how much its over reading by. (eg if it reads 30 at idle and it should be 15, then you could assume that when it shows 45 = 30, etc)
with knock sensor error code it normally retards timing a bit, so it gets down around 0-5 or maybe negative (ATDC) under load.
with the logs, you can also check that:1) aac value settles down under 45 idling when warm2) o2 sensors swing back and forth between 0-1v3) and just check if timing "seems" ok (but hard to do this when consult doesnt show it right)
but u can do that a lot easier than u can with a single shot
basically with knock sensor trick, you just need to check out timing and make sure its generally 10+ deg BTDC... BUT, the only problem is that ive seen quite a few consult cars which read timing wrong! 50+ BTDC is too much, but thats cause the ecu mustnt be reporting it the same way other cars do. find out what it reads at idle, compare to stock static timing, and thats probably how much its over reading by. (eg if it reads 30 at idle and it should be 15, then you could assume that when it shows 45 = 30, etc)
with knock sensor error code it normally retards timing a bit, so it gets down around 0-5 or maybe negative (ATDC) under load.
with the logs, you can also check that:1) aac value settles down under 45 idling when warm2) o2 sensors swing back and forth between 0-1v3) and just check if timing "seems" ok (but hard to do this when consult doesnt show it right)
but u can do that a lot easier than u can with a single shot
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3Q Jay
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Re: (qsiguy)
Shane, i don't see anything in your screen shots that would cause the emissions problem. while i didn't snap it, mine is similar parameters at 60 mph. aac duty is less for me.i like your idea of the fixed 550k resitor for temporary diagnosing of ks related issues.
what does your throttle voltage read at idle (hot)? would also suggest tuning your aac screw until you are at 20% aac duty cycle hot idle in gear, but again, don't think this is messing your emissions.might try data logging your tps and maf voltages from idle to redline locked in gear and with both mashed throttle (maf lags tps voltage significantly until it 'catches up'), and 'floating' up throttle. just an idea.
what does your throttle voltage read at idle (hot)? would also suggest tuning your aac screw until you are at 20% aac duty cycle hot idle in gear, but again, don't think this is messing your emissions.might try data logging your tps and maf voltages from idle to redline locked in gear and with both mashed throttle (maf lags tps voltage significantly until it 'catches up'), and 'floating' up throttle. just an idea.
I took the car back in and was able to pass emissions by a lot. There is a long thread in the IOM section explaining it in detail. I have the knock sensors, plenum kit, and a ton of other stuff to go into the Q soon so everything should be back up to par shortly.
Yes, I was very happy to figure out the resistor bypass. I'd heard it didn't work with just a resistor but it did for me. I cut the wire where it goes into the ECU and ran a wire from ground near the glove box through he 560K resistor into the ECU. Left the wire coming from the knock sensor disconnected.
Car had been sitting for about a week and went out tonight to do some logging with my consult and it was running rough at idle. I opened Nissan Data Scan and one at a time killed each cylinder to see if which ones didn't change the rough idle. When I got to #8 there was no change so that was the bad one. When you kill the cylinder with NDS are you killing the spark, injector, or both? I took an ohm reading on that injector after running the car for a while (it had cleared up during the drive) and it was the same as all the rest, about 12 ohms. I had first thought my issue was the injector but now I'm not sure, could be the spark plug as well. I already have new plugs to go in anyway but if it's the injector I'll need to pick up a new one.
Yes, I was very happy to figure out the resistor bypass. I'd heard it didn't work with just a resistor but it did for me. I cut the wire where it goes into the ECU and ran a wire from ground near the glove box through he 560K resistor into the ECU. Left the wire coming from the knock sensor disconnected.
Car had been sitting for about a week and went out tonight to do some logging with my consult and it was running rough at idle. I opened Nissan Data Scan and one at a time killed each cylinder to see if which ones didn't change the rough idle. When I got to #8 there was no change so that was the bad one. When you kill the cylinder with NDS are you killing the spark, injector, or both? I took an ohm reading on that injector after running the car for a while (it had cleared up during the drive) and it was the same as all the rest, about 12 ohms. I had first thought my issue was the injector but now I'm not sure, could be the spark plug as well. I already have new plugs to go in anyway but if it's the injector I'll need to pick up a new one.
Here's some good data I got tonight with my consult and NDS. I did some speed tests tonight to use as a baseline before my turbo install.
I had done the 0-60 test back when my knock sensors were giving me a code. Also was using my stock ECU. 0-60 time was about 9.5 seconds!
After bypassing the knock sensor and loosing the code, reinstalling my NICO stage 1 ECU I got 7.2 seconds to 60. That's a pretty significant improvement I think. Not sure where that falls compared to other Q's. Also, I did a 40-80 test and got 8.5 sec. Started at 30 in 3rd gear and floored it. The software automatically starts timing at 40 mph and stops close to 80. I think it stopped at 81-82 mph. Has something to do with the sampling rate I think. It never stops right at the target speed.
Anyone else have speed test numbers to share? I'd like to see where I'm at for my baseline numbers. I sure wish I would have had that knock sensor bypassed when I did my baseline dyno run a few weeks ago. I'm sure my numbers would have been much better.
I had done the 0-60 test back when my knock sensors were giving me a code. Also was using my stock ECU. 0-60 time was about 9.5 seconds!
After bypassing the knock sensor and loosing the code, reinstalling my NICO stage 1 ECU I got 7.2 seconds to 60. That's a pretty significant improvement I think. Not sure where that falls compared to other Q's. Also, I did a 40-80 test and got 8.5 sec. Started at 30 in 3rd gear and floored it. The software automatically starts timing at 40 mph and stops close to 80. I think it stopped at 81-82 mph. Has something to do with the sampling rate I think. It never stops right at the target speed.
Anyone else have speed test numbers to share? I'd like to see where I'm at for my baseline numbers. I sure wish I would have had that knock sensor bypassed when I did my baseline dyno run a few weeks ago. I'm sure my numbers would have been much better.
Nico ecu??
How do I go about getting a NICO ECU???
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maxnix
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2000 Infiniti Q45
Re: Nico ecu?? (1994Q45T)
Search for that thread or contact Wes.1994Q45T wrote:How do I go about getting a NICO ECU???
Re: Nico ecu?? (1994Q45T)
I offered to help Robert mod ECU's to take care of the people who want them, at least for the 90-93 ECU's (which will work on the '94 models) and neither Wes or Robert ever responded and let me know either way. All I have is a stage 1 program so I can burn that to a chip for you but Robert has several different programs and is more equipped to handle the newer ECU's and can put multiple programs on one ECU for you that you can change with a switch.1994Q45T wrote:How do I go about getting a NICO ECU???
Anyway, there are a bunch of posts and long threads with detailed info on the NICO ECU's
Re: Nico ecu?? (qsiguy)
That would be great if you could help handle some of the demand. Do the knock codes show in ECUtalk or Datascan? I know they dont throw a check engine light
Re: Nico ecu?? (silver2k2)
knock error code 34 will show in both ecutalk and datascan (and should show in an consult software that reads error codes)silver2k2 wrote:Do the knock codes show in ECUtalk or Datascan? I know they dont throw a check engine light
Yes, to 2nd NewKleer's response. They show up both of those. You can also read it directly from the ECU. Pull down the ECU and leave it plugged in. On the opposite side of the harness connector there is a red LED and a pot (screw looking thing) you just have to turn the pot clockwise about 1/2 turn until it stops, wait 2-3 seconds, and turn it back counterclockwise til it stops then count the blinks. Code 34 would be 3 long flashes followed by 4 quick flashes, and then it would repeat.
Re: Nico ecu?? (silver2k2)
I'd love to. I don't really want to distribute Roberts program without his consent but they have not responded to any emails for posts on the subject telling me yes we'd like some help, or no we don't want help, or you don't have permission to distribute my programs, etc. I don't know what to do. The only reason I got the equipment and figured out how to do it is because I need a boost program for my turbo install and I don't know how long it would take to get one from Robert as he's obviously very busy. Wes advised me to figure it out on my own so I did. A lot of reading and a small investment later and I'm ready to program!silver2k2 wrote:That would be great if you could help handle some of the demand....
Re: Nico ecu?? (qsiguy)
What type of hp gain am I looking at for stage 1?and How much are we talking for you to do this for me?
I can't really say what HP gain you will get. My dyno numbers are a little skewed because I had a knock code when I did my dyno. With the stock ECU I got about 150 hp and with my NICO Stage 1 (mildest tune) I got 222 hp. I'm sure when the knock codes isn't in there they are closer. Most people get around 230-240 hp in mostly stock form and Robert claimed about 20-30 hp gain with this ECU. I guess I could take it back out with the stock ECU and do a 0-60 time with my Nissan Data Scan software. With my NICO ECU I got 7.2 seconds to 60. I will take it back out with the stock ECU again and see what I get. With the knock code still in the ECU I got about 9.5 seconds to 60 on the stock ECU. Now the knock is gone but I haven't done it again with the stock ECU. It will be next week before I get a chance to do this test.
I have no idea on price. I still would like to get a response from Robert prior to distributing his program. I will email him again after I post this. If I do one for you, you would need to do what I did. Find a 90-93 ECU with the same options you have on your car. For example, I found a '93 ECU with TCS but non-active, that matches the options I have on my '94 ECU. I think Robert is charging about $250 +/- for the ECU's when he does them. JWT sells there ECU's for $595. I'll have to come up with a price but first I have to figure out what I am going to to.
I have no idea on price. I still would like to get a response from Robert prior to distributing his program. I will email him again after I post this. If I do one for you, you would need to do what I did. Find a 90-93 ECU with the same options you have on your car. For example, I found a '93 ECU with TCS but non-active, that matches the options I have on my '94 ECU. I think Robert is charging about $250 +/- for the ECU's when he does them. JWT sells there ECU's for $595. I'll have to come up with a price but first I have to figure out what I am going to to.
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Q45tech
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Re: (qsiguy)
JWT and Dinan reprograms both showed dyno graphs [corrected to flywheel power] where the torque increased between 22 and 30 lb/ft based on rpm. Splitting the difference say 25 lb/ft.
It all depends on how close one gets to the ragged edge and the fuel quality used.
Removing the safety's can require fuel quality that may be hard to find in some locations....................at least care must be excercised in purchases no regular or midgrade EVER especially in SUMMER [abover 80F].
It all depends on how close one gets to the ragged edge and the fuel quality used.
Removing the safety's can require fuel quality that may be hard to find in some locations....................at least care must be excercised in purchases no regular or midgrade EVER especially in SUMMER [abover 80F].
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Q45tech
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Re: (qsiguy)
Obviously ethanolized fuel could result in a 3.3% [~~9 lb/ft] reduction due to lower bmep alone.
Really depends on fuel and where KS reduces the advance to in final adjustment.
Remember to decrease numbers by 3.3% per thousand feet above MSL.
Remember to decrease numbers by 1% per 11F above 60F injested air temp.
So ATL summer would be 8-10% [24-33 lb/ft] below sealevel spring temps.........assuming the gasoline was good enough to no create measurable knock.
Really depends on fuel and where KS reduces the advance to in final adjustment.
Remember to decrease numbers by 3.3% per thousand feet above MSL.
Remember to decrease numbers by 1% per 11F above 60F injested air temp.
So ATL summer would be 8-10% [24-33 lb/ft] below sealevel spring temps.........assuming the gasoline was good enough to no create measurable knock.