Hello to all
I just joined this group, live in Salt Lake City and own 2013 Nissan Rogue. It has been running well with usual transmission noise and not shifting into Drive mode on high elevation slow drives i guess when tranny gets hot. Recently brakes started scraping and i found front pads were worn out and rotors scraped too. So i got new rotors, new pads and was ready to install but decided to rebuild calipers because there was uneven wear between inside and outside pads due to increased friction in pistons. When i tried to install dust boots after cleaning all parts it just would not go into it's place pushing with my fingers, was trying for more than an hour, destroyed both boots when hitting parts of the boot with plastic drift. It occured to me there must be some tool to press boots but after spending hours online i couldn't find any online. So my options ar to give up and just get rebuilt calipers (my calipers are in excellent shape) or find the tool or ask brake shop to install new boots for me(it seems hard to find a shop willing to do this little job)
Any comments are very welcome
TIA,
Leon

You will almost always have a little more inner pad wear,
especially on the driver side. AS long as the wear is not
more than 3mm difference, that is normal. That is about
Every single car I have owned, the inner pads were lower
than the outer. When I saw the inner was almost gone,
and the outer had half pad left,I I knew there was a
problem.

The caliper slides, which pulls the outer pad into the rotor.
The inner pad is pushed with the piston. When the brakes
are released, the inner pad will drag longer than the outer
pad if the slide pins are properly lubed and doing their jobs.
If the caliper is stuck, won't slide, the inner pad will wear
much faster. Most of the time, you only need to clean
the bores, clean the pins, and use the proper lube when
you put the slide pins back in.

Outer pad wear is caused when the outer brake pad continues
to rest against the rotor, even when the caliper is released.
This is a sign of malfunctioning guide pins, bushings, or slides.
The piston has backed off, but the caliper did not back off
along the guide pins. Outer pad wear, also more then 3mm
difference of the inner, needs addressed.

ALWAYS open your brake reservoir when you are doing a brake
service. This will make the pistons easier to push in, and
not risk popping a seal in the ABS pump.

When I pull the wheel off, I grab the rotor at exactly the opposite
of the caliper, and I yank on it. If the rotor does not pull and
go crooked, then the caliper is stuck. Not only should the piston
push in when you pull on it, the caliper should slide out too.
Rotor movement will be no more than the caliper bracket will
allow. This is how I open the gaps up, so I can get a pry bar
between the rotor and inner pad, and push the pad against the
piston to push it in.

Like I wrote, most of the time, you only need to pull the pins,
clean the bores, clean the pins, and use the proper lube when
you put the slide pins back in. IF the pins are rusted and pitted,
and you do not have access to a wire wheel machine to take
the rust off, then buy new pins.

I use WURTH copper paste anti-seize. Brush a layer on the pin, then
slide it in the bore, and let the boot snap onto it. Pull it and
push it, in and out a few times, then pull it all the way out,
and put another thin layer of the anti-seize on it, and then
you're done.

I run 1200 miles a week, and not only are my inner pads always
worn a little more than the outers, the driver side ones are
worn even more, because that is where the weight is. The
driver side also gets hotter than the passenger side.

Anyhow, there you have it...