I've decided on the AC 3" BL for my 94 Hardbody but I can't decide whether to go with their 3" SL or the one from Calmini. Any opinions?

Calmini has a history of bad bushings with their upper control arms. I don't know if they were able to resolve this or not. The bushing had a habit of wearing out, almost to the the point where the vehicles were unsafe to drive.

A/C's lift : Haven't heard anything bad about them and I have only seen the kit in one vehicle so I can't comment

I have a Rancho lift in my Xterra and the D21 has a similar suspension setup to the X. Yeah I know it states 2.5" but if you go with a body lift too it won't really matter much. I have had no trouble at all with my Rancho kit and it's been in my Xterra for nearly 3 years.

One thing to keep in mind is if you do go with a S/L you will soon be needing a steering system upgrade. The stock center link can't take the increased suspension angles especailly if you go with bigger tires.L&P Performance makes one, SLR makes one, Calmini makes one too.

The Calmini UCA's use Delrin bushings, that if properly greased will last a long time. I've run AC arms and bushings on 2 trucks, and have had to replace the bushings on those as well. Grease is the key to longer life on any of them.

If you do opt for the AC lift, go for the 3 leaf AAL out back and not the single one. The single one breaks other leaves over time. Consider some longer shackles as well.

The overgrown muppet is right on needing a steering solution. L&P has been flakey lately - not returning emails, etc. Calmini's setup is around $500 and has an issue with wearing idler arm bushings out - again, regular greasing helps. SLR setups range in price depending on the options, but can easily exceed $1000 for the full blown setup. I've run both and had idler arm bushing wear be the main issue on each setup. The difference is that the SLR setup can be replaced using factory bushings, which are cheap and readily availble. But at doulb the cost of the bombproof Calmini setup, you'll need to decide if it's worth the money. AC also sells a setup from Total Chaos that uses heims instead of the factory TRE's. While I'm not a big fan of heims, the tierods they use are massive compared to stock units, and the one truck that wheels with me regularly that has the setup has had zero issues with it. It too, though, is expensive.

On the lifts, go with whichever company you prefer. Both work on the same principle and both are good quality products. The Calmini blue shocks that come with their kit are essentially the same Rancho RS5000's that come with the AC kit. The same goes for the stiffer torsion bars, if you opt for those.

If you need help with the install, I have a full how-to on my website that I can cross post if needed.

personally, i'd go with a SL over a BL any day.

you might have more to address... but BL don't improve things THAT much in my experience with them. it wasn't worth it for me.

SL on the other hand....

Desert Rat wrote:If you need help with the install, I have a full how-to on my website that I can cross post if needed.

I was a member at your site but I keep getting deleted for some reason

Another thing along the line of lifts...what are the potential risks with a t-bar adjustment. Also how do you keep the risks to a minimum?

Torsion bars are a weird animal as fas as suspensions go. They are under constant torsional loads when the vehicle is on the ground. Metal fatigue is a torsion bars biggest enemy.

Carrying a heavy nose load ( big bumpers, winch) and constant adjustment are the pre-cursors to a failure.

Thankfully a torsion bar will usually sag before it will break. But it's up to the vehicle owner to recognize the symptoms.

Soft suspension. Nose sits lower than normal, You have adjusted the t-bars numerous times already. These are all warning signs.

When a t-bar fails, at least from the sources I have read, they have a habit of breaking near the control arm end...and usually when you are driving.Can you say Jousting? The ground usually gets speared by the raw end and that will bring you to a sudden stop....

I am sure there are other NICO-ites in here who may have similar factoids and perhaps a few items I didn't mention.

I've never seen a stock Tbar break, but I have heard of several aftermarket ones that snapped while the trucks were parked.

As far as adjusting the Tbar for ride height, it really doesn't put any additional stress on the Tbar. You're just clocking it around so the suspension sits in a different position (lifted) at rest. Harsh ride from cranked torsion bars doesn't stem from the fac that they're wound tighter, but instead from the lack of downtravel you have when you're done.

JK - if you don't post or log into N4W for over a year, you get deleted. It's our way of not skewing active member counts for advertisers. Feel free to re-register any time.

DR...you're probably right about stock t-bars not breaking. I seem to recall several aftermarket ones snapping. And these did break while driving on the trail.

Nissan itself does offer a thicker bar that is more resistant to sagging simply becasue it is 2 millimeters thicker than stock ones.

I still have my OE t-bars and I had them clocked 2 teeth when we put them back in during my Rancho Kit ungrade. No issues yet!

When my Frontier was IFS, I ran the Sway Aways. I still have the stock bars on my Xterra though, even with the 105lb Shrock bumper and all the skid row armor. They're holding up fine as well.

I was disappointed though......The overgrown muppet comment went buy completely unacknolwedged.

Desert Rat wrote:When my Frontier was IFS, I ran the Sway Aways. I still have the stock bars on my Xterra though, even with the 105lb Shrock bumper and all the skid row armor. They're holding up fine as well.

I was disappointed though......The overgrown muppet comment went buy completely unacknolwedged.

Oh hell.....fine.... There do you feel better?

I read it....you'll get yours.....just wait.

Bring it Snuffelofogous

Did yu check yer Hotmail address lately DR?

haven't seen anything