California KA24E EGR Valve

[elbles]

Hey everybody,

Just got my 1990 240 back from the shop, installed a rebuilt engine at 70,151 miles, due to that notorious timing chain guide/tensioner problem that caused coolant to kill the bearings long before I got the car. I was just too stupid to notice. ;-)

Anyway, I've been driving the car around for 160 miles or so, and almost right after I started the car, the check engine light came on. I pulled the ECU, and got code 32 for the EGR valve. I haven't run any of the tests in the FSM yet, but based upon how incorrect the vacuum hoses were hooked up (yet another reminent of the idiot who owned the car before me). To be honest, I've had a hard time finding the EGR valve, let alone hook things up, even with the FSM. It seems this kind of thing is the only thing its weak in. If anyone has any info on how to change the EGR valve, or any diagrams better than the one in the FSM, I'd appreciate it. Thanks, in advance!

P.S: The timing chain in this new engine seems to rattle just a bit on startup, especially when cold out. Low oil pressure at startup is my guess, and I certainly don't want a hole in the front cover. Any ideas on this? Post another thread? Lower viscosity oil?

Sean Elble1990 Nissan 240SX SE FastbackRebuilt KA24E

[TrunkMonkey]

Anyway, I've been driving the car around for 160 miles or so, and almost right after I started the car, the check engine light came on. I pulled the ECU, and got code 32 for the EGR valve. I haven't run any of the tests in the FSM yet, but based upon how incorrect the vacuum hoses were hooked up (yet another reminent of the idiot who owned the car before me). To be honest, I've had a hard time finding the EGR valve, let alone hook things up, even with the FSM. It seems this kind of thing is the only thing its weak in. If anyone has any info on how to change the EGR valve, or any diagrams better than the one in the FSM, I'd appreciate it. Thanks, in advance!

it doesn't get any better than the FSM. make sure all the vacuum lines are in the right place then go through the diagnostic tests in the FSM. i'm sure you'll find the problem.

P.S: The timing chain in this new engine seems to rattle just a bit on startup, especially when cold out. Low oil pressure at startup is my guess, and I certainly don't want a hole in the front cover. Any ideas on this? Post another thread? Lower viscosity oil?

were the oil pump and oil pump drive gear replaced when it was rebuilt?

[elbles]

Thanks for the really quick reply. I certainly intend on performing all the tests in the FSM, but assuming the EGR valve is gone, where/how do I replace it? In reading the FSM, it describes it well, etc, but doesn't have much instruction as to how to replace it, and whether or not the California model uses the same EGR valve as the rest of the models? Thanks again for the quick reply . . .

Oh, and yes, a new oil pump/drive gear were used on the rebuild. Nothing was reused, purchased a pre-rebuilt. :-) All new, except for the block, and crankshaft (reground, micropolished finish). Can you believe Nissan wants close to $800 for just the crank?

[TrunkMonkey]

the EGR vale is located on the back of the intake manifold. you have to remove the manifold to replace it.

what weight oil are you using?

-demetrius

[elbles]

Uhh, not a fun easy thing to replace, huh? God, on my mom's Aurora (4.0 liter V8, wish I had *that* in my car), it took all of 30 minutes. ;-) 3 hour job or so?

I believe my mechanic put in 10W30, not the best for the winter I know. 5W30 is going in at the 500 mile mark. But do you think that will be enough to get the pressure high enough on start to avoid the chain rattling? I'm just scared to death of another $4000 repair bill, hehe.