CAI Install....Pointers ?

[champagneG35]

Hey all,

I checked the how tos first and didn't see anything for this, soo...

Got a question for those of you that have done it. I have my CAI sitting in a box waiting for me to install it. Only thing is there's no installation instructions. Now I'm farely confident I can do this without issue just walking out and figuring what has to come off in order to jimmy this thing in there.

My question to you though is to those who've done it. Are there any time saving tips you might be willing to share ? The weather's starting to get chilly around here in the evenings so the less time I'm out there installing it the better. I just want to get an idea of what I'm up against before I go and start the install ? Things like does a lift make it easier in case I have to remove that lower engine cover on the bottom of the bumper to get to some strange bolt.

Thanks.

Modified by champagneG35 at 11:53 AM 12/31/2007
Modified by champagneG35 at 11:54 AM 12/31/2007

[joe603]

A few questions.

1. What type did you get-Stillen or JWT short ram, or CAI (such as AEM)?

2. Did you also get the Z-tube?

3. Did you get a spacer?

You don't have to raise the car to do this mod.

[champagneG35]

I got this one

It's CAI I know it's not injen or anything but it should function very similar. I've got a kid so my budget is limited so no flamers for the offbrand name.
Modified by champagneG35 at 10:14 AM 12/13/2007

[joe603]

...just remember the old adage, you get what you pay for!!

Install should be strait-forward.

[Q45tech]

And many aftermarket parts are near worthless powerwise or have serious reliability downsides.................the converse may apply you pay for what you get [or change] and may keep paying and paying.

[champagneG35]

I know I know but the construction looks like it will hold up pretty good. If it was a mechanical peice I would've spent more on it but all it has to do is suck in more air than stock then hopefully hps will go up .

If I need a good bypass valve or something I can always get that part seperately.

[joe603]

The bypass is the only thing that worries me...don't go through any large puddles!!

[champagneG35]

It's ok AEM makes universals just need to find the diameter and order one if the need arises. I live in Southern California though. It doesn't flood so much where I'm at. Occassionaly we have little puddles not so many massive ones.

[champagneG35]

Hey I was just wondering so I could look at one. Any of you have a good picture of an installed CAI that I could view so I could sorta compare mine to it and make sure I have everything ?

Joe (and others) you asked and I keep hearing about this "wider z-tube" I'm thinking this is just for the jwt pop charger (I've only seen it listed with that) or can you add the wider tube portion to a CAI ?? Also keep seeing a "spacer" mentioned, is this something else that can be added to CAI to improve the intake even further ? Or is it all one or the other type thing. I was thinking if the Z's maf senser housing was wider I could simply find a junked one and snag it to make it wider on mine. Thoughts ?

Modified by champagneG35 at 11:00 PM 12/13/2007

Modified by champagneG35 at 11:01 PM 12/13/2007
Modified by champagneG35 at 11:04 PM 12/13/2007

[joe603]

The Z-tube is for the popcharger, or short ram intake, not needed for your setup. However, the plenum spacer (I recommend motordyne) goes between the lower and upper plenum to increase airflow. Since you have an 03, only the spacer is needed (don't bother with the MREV2). I would get the 5/16" version which will give you better all-round performance.

http://www.motordyneengineering.com/

[G_whizz]

+1 for the spacer.

Do you need the instructions for the install? It's pretty straightforward and should be thesame as any other filter install. There should be instructions on that in the "how to" section.

Good luck... lucky you not having to install the rubber on the heatshield!!

[smockers83]

There should be instructions for the filter install in the How To sticky that isn't a sticky right now for whatever reason, but it was never posted in there... . I guess the powers that be didn't like it haha.

But here's my write-up on the filter install, you'll pretty much follow the same setup. You'll get an idea of the work needed around the actual engine area, how to take it apart and put back together. Any questions, just ask and someone will help you out.

This is easier than you are probably thinking.

To install a Stillen or POP Charger Intake (I know JWT gives you instructions, but you never know):

Note: if you aren't installing the Z-tube, disregard Steps 2 & 3 except for unplugging the MAF.

1) Using a 10mm socket, loosen bolt holding the air box to the body. Loosen the hose clamp at the front of the MAF with a screw driver or 8mm socket (the one closest to stock air box; be careful with the MAF, do not drop it or allow dirt to get inside). Pull up on air box and filter until it comes out, don't be afraid if you have to get a little rough with it, just don't get out of control.

2) Remove engine cover (10mm socket). Unplug the MAF harness (MAF is the unit right after the filter going up the intake with the wires going into it). Loosen hose clamp at the rear of the stock intake tube (at the engine), remove the small hose connected to the stock tube. Pull the tube from the engine, you will also be pulling up the resonance chamber.

3) Put the Z-tube on. Connect the hose to the same port (PCV port) on the Z-tube except now it will be on the bottom when you put the tube on. Put the hose clamp on the Z-tube and attach to the engine and tighten the clamp. Again, be careful with the MAF attached to the stock tube.

4a) Stillen Remove the MAF from the stock tube and place it onto the air box/filter of the Stillen. Now install the filter/air box and MAF as one unit as per the instructions from Stillen (I would hope they gave you some. If not, use the hardware and remember how things were on the stock air box...someone who's done this particular install might want to clear this step up for me).

4b) JWT Install the heat shield and filter. Line up the hole with the air dam, it will only fit one way. Push it as far back as it will go along the body and attach the supplied bracket (refer to your instructions for pictures). Get the rubber pieces that connect the air dam and heat shield situated (one inside the other, male to female) Take the filter with the aluminum venturi and attach the MAF to it. Attach the aluminum bracket as well between the MAF and venturi stack, but keep it slightly loose for final adjustment. Finally take all that as a unit and attach the filter/MAF to the intake tube and attach the aluminum bracket to the body where the one bolt was for the stock air box. Get the filter/tube situated so its not touching any other lines and tighten at the MAF. Tighten the hose clamp at the MAF. Attach the remaining bracket to the stock air dam.

5) Plug the MAF harness back in, replace engine cover, and make sure everything is secure, the intake isn't touching any of the other lines and you should be set to go.

This post has been modified from its original format to fit the needs of almost everyone.

If anything needs to be changed, post it.

[G_whizz]

Should be here in the Sticky that says G35 forum index

zerothread/299288

[G_whizz]

Ok... either I'm blind or I need another coffee??? Where did your right up actually go?? That earned you your Custom Title if I remember correctly right?? Let me know if you can find it...repost the link for me and I will get it in there...

[smockers83]

Hmm that's weird, I thought I posted the link and it showed up as the write up. I think we both need coffee or just need to take a fiver haha (my vote is for the fiver plus an hour).

Lets see if I do it right this time. zer...37217

[champagneG35]

The Z-tube is for the popcharger, or short ram intake, not needed for your setup. However, the plenum spacer (I recommend motordyne) goes between the lower and upper plenum to increase airflow. Since you have an 03, only the spacer is needed (don't bother with the MREV2). I would get the 5/16" version which will give you better all-round performance.

http://www.motordyneengineering.com/

Jey Joe I'm not sure what the "MREV2" is but I found 2 kits from Riverside Infiniti on ebay...they're about 10 bucks difference...Copper Spacer ISO Thermal Spacer

Just kind of fishing right now to see what I'm looking at cost wise but being sold from an Infiniti dealership I'm assuming it doesn't void the warranty ?

[joe603]

Those e-bay links are for the spacer kits only. The difference between the two kits is the more expensive one has thermo protection to help stop heat soaking...won't really do much.

For your 03, you already have the MREV2 lower plenum, so all you need is the spacer. (The did a redesign in 05 with the REVUP that uses a different design. The older design flows better, and in combination with the other REVUP components, significant gains can be made.)

Anyway, it is a little cheaper than buying from Motordyne direct...Go for it!!!

http://www.motordyneengineering.com/G35.htm

[champagneG35]

Ok so I thought I'd give an update on this. I installed it last Saturday night/morning. Took alot longer than I thought but I got it done. I threw an engine code due to disconnecting the maf without disconnecting the battery (I think it was a high voltage output code if I remember right) but cleared it with autozones OBD2 code reader and verified it did not come back. Everything's been peachy with the new CAI so far. It has a really throaty sound to it when pushed at higher RPMs, that according to my friends that listended from their cars while on the road "mirrors the exhuast note, but still has that intake sound to it"

I'll try to write up a general install for it later being as the link suby posted seemed to describe the SRI install more than the CAI install and there's a few more steps needed, at least if the CAI being used is like mine that rests the filter in the little pocket in front of the wheel/inner fender wall on the drivers side.

Here's a few thumbnail pics for ya. Note the loose bolt on the coupler, apparently it's a good idea to use loctite on these bolts 3 of them left on there own, didn't notice till I looked at the pictures just now and saw that loose bolt. I ran out to check it and found I need 3 more bolts cause they aren't there anymore. I will be using loctite on them this time

edit: all 4 bolts back in place w/ loctite and will stay there now

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Modified by champagneG35 at 1:22 AM 1/1/2008