cabin blower fan stopped working

[ras_oscar]

This morning I drove my 2012 Rogue SV to work and the blower worked fine. On the way home it started making a quiet little buzzing sound, then that stopped... along with any air movement at all. I have previously changed the fan resistor on my 2005 Altima, and when that went bad the fan ran at full speed, so unless the rogue is set up differently, I don't think that's the problem. Pulled out 2 15A fuses labeled " blower fan" and checked them both visually and with an ohm meter. Continuity was fine, although there was a slight brown discoloration on the root of the fuses. Is there anything else I can check before puling out the fan itself? I reviewed the youtube video and it seems like you have to disassemble half the underside of the dash to get to it. Not a chore I relish.

[04pathse]

It might be a bad blower motor resistor / fan control amplifier, I would try replacing that first before the blower motor itself. You can purchase an aftermarket one for as low as $15 shipping included.
OEM Nissan are probably around $100.

Or you can test the blower motor resistor with an ohmmeter, there are some youtube videos on how to do this.

Here is a video I found on how to change the resistor/ fan amplifier on youtube.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WYIATLQ7wpY&t=80s

Removal of the fan control amplifier is covered here on page 17 in this section of the FSM
http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/Rogue/2012%20Rogue/VTL.pdf

[macgiver]

mac , specific to THE question "is there anything to do before PULLING FAN MOTOR" is - should be able to unplug that fan motor , test-meter it out , connect battery voltage to it with a FUSED JUMPER !Then you'll really know whether that needs removing Good luck G 3/30/2018

[ras_oscar]

Has anyone experienced failure of the blower motor resister on a 2012 Rogue? Was the mode of failure fan operating at full speed only?

[Rogue Jarhead]

I would definitely do as Mac suggested, unplug the motor and put a jumper wire to it giving it 12v just to make sure if it still works. If it does check the switch, and the resistor. I've not had a resistor go bad on a Rogue so I'm not sure if it fails entirely or you just slowly loose each of the fan setting speeds.

[ras_oscar]

mac , specific to THE question "is there anything to do before PULLING FAN MOTOR" is - should be able to unplug that fan motor , test-meter it out , connect battery voltage to it with a FUSED JUMPER !Then you'll really know whether that needs removing Good luck G 3/30/2018

I'm looking at the fan connector photo on Amazon. It looks like the fan motor only has a single electrical terminal. Is that power in and the ground connection is picked up in the mount?

[Sktih1970]

My 2009 rogue blower wouldn't operate. I smacked it and it came on it worked a few times by doing this, now won't do anything.

[VStar650CL]

The brushes are shot, replace it.

[Eabzolid]

Hi there. I’m new here.
Vehicle: 2013 Rogue

Recently my blower motor stopped working. So I replaced it along with the blower motor resistor. I then turn the fan on and it still doesn’t work. I checked the two fuses under the dash and the two 15amp fuses were blown, so I replaced them. Now there is power on the yellow wire going to the blower motor.

I disconnected the resistor plug and don’t have power on the red wire. I looked at the wiring diagram and see that the AC amplifier is also responsible for the fan control operation. Can anyone confirm this? Or has anyone come across this issue? Any insight would be great. Thanks!

[Eabzolid]

Anyone have an idea of where this ac amplifier located?
Part number online is 277604bu0d
I can’t find it in the actual car, wiring diagram shows behind centre of dash. I took the heater controls as well as the radio, but nothing looked like the one I’m looking for.

[VStar650CL]

It's buried at the very back of the HVAC Unit next to the accelerator pedal. It's around a corner next to the firewall so you sort of have to feel for it. The connector can be got out with the pedal in place, but changing the part requires removing the pedal assembly.

[Eabzolid]

I think you’re thinking about the resistor.
But the other name for this piece is heater control assembly on the actual dash. The wiring diagram is confusing with how it labels some things. I’m getting a used one in a couple of days and I’ll see how that goes.

[VStar650CL]

I'll be very surprised if the HVAC Controller (yah, "amplifier" is corny and inaccurate but you're right, that's what Nissan calls it) is blown. They almost never fail unless something external blows them up, like the infamous "piggy bank" on the Maximas. The terminology is silly, the controller controls and the VBC (resistor) is what actually amplifies. In the shop we call the HVAC controller the "control head".

The head should be located underneath the radio, mounted on the same brackets. You pull them both out as a unit. It isn't usually necessary to remove the brackets from the radio, there's generally enough "give" in the brackets to allow getting the head off the locator posts and slide the new one in. But before you go through all that work, I'd get a voltmeter and check the signal at the VBC (resistor) while turning the blower speed dial. If there's a voltage and it changes with the dial, the controller isn't your problem. The signal wire is easy to identify at the VBC connector, it's the tiny wire. The other two are fat. The WD shows it blue on your rig.

If you have signal, back-probe the fat red wire with the connector in place. If there's no voltage or a very low voltage, either your motor is shot or there's a bad wire between the motor and the VBC. If you have 12V at red and you have a control signal from the head, check voltage at the fat red one with the knob on high. The red wire should go almost to zero. If not, the VBC isn't working. They blow open-circuit about as frequently as short-circuit, so don't assume that because the blower isn't running flat-out that the VBC can't be at fault. If it blows "open", the result is no blower.

See this post for an explanation of how your system actually works:

topic628180.html

[Eabzolid]

Hi vstar. Thanks for your reply. It appears I have another issue? I did your test and it was all good. The heater control works at it should. So I put a new blower motor on with it out of its housing, basically laying outside the hvac housing. I turn the key on, blower doesn’t turn on even if the fan speed is on low, medium or high speed.

But when I manually spin the cage, it then run on its own. So while the blower is running, I try to control the speed from low to med to high successfully.

Then I turn off the car, key on again, blower doesn’t run on its own, even if the control for fan speed is left on auto, or low/medium speed.

Defective blower motor? Bad ground?

Thanks for your reply.

[VStar650CL]

You're most welcome. It could be a bad ground, yes. The black wire from the VBC to ground should have almost 0V on it at any blower speed, even on high it shouldn't go much above 0.1V. If it's above that then the ground or the connector is crappy. It's also possible the VBC is dying and can't pull a good ground to the motor. Check the voltage on the red wire with the motor stalled and the control set on high. If it's very low then the VBC is good and the motor is defective. If it's more than a few volts then the motor is good but the VBC is shot.

[Eabzolid]

I do have a new vbc as well, but I didn’t try it to see if it would result in the same issue. I’ll try to that first and see if it’s still the same. If it is, that would leave it to be a ground problem. And do your test for
Voltage on red wire to find out if blower motor is defective. Thanks And will let you know how it goes.

[VStar650CL]

PS - Check the condition of the female pins at the blower and VBC connectors also. You said initially both fuses were blown, so your old motor must have been sucking a lot of juice. It's possible one of the connector pins got smoked and now you have too much resistance for the motor to start.

[Eabzolid]

I tried a different blower motor and that fixed it!
Apparently the blower motor is defective as well the resistor. Go figure! I’m still using the old resistor for now. This car was stressful going back and forth especially where the blower motor is installed. Took it out a few more times that I kept getting faster and faster ! Thanks to all the replies, appreciate it!