Okay so heres the story. I got my ca18det swap and put it into a 240sx. After all my wiring it started no problem. I didn't solder my main ignition wires so they got hot, tore them apart solder and now they don't produce heat. great! Go to try to start the car my fuel pump doesn't turn on, figured it was a relay, wasn't… Well just wired in a 5pin relay with a switch and it turns on great! No problems. Well now my ecu doesn't get power…. Got a new EGI relay still no power, but when i connect the ecu backup power and ecu power wires my ecu turns on. But my ca still doesn't start. I don't get WHAT WOULD cause my ecu to not properly work.

I understand what you're saying man, but the bad news is that you didn't properly wire the car. And here's the kicker, we can't see what you've done with the wiring, so it makes it even more difficult to properly diagnose your issue. But I do caution you to be careful not damage the ecu as that has happened frequently, over the years, by new CA18 owners. Is your orange wire hooked-up?

Yea, you have some kind of major wiring issue. My guess is that if the fuel pump and EGI relays aren't closing, the rest of the harness isn't get power like it's supposed to. It's impossible to fix wiring issues over the internet. I suggest either getting someone local involved that has experience, or buying a new PnP harness from Wiring Specialties.

I'm gonna double what float said about Wiring Specialties. I had "teething" problems when I was getting my CA going (bought the car with engine "installed" by a kid). Was able to track down all of my issues on the wires, but I work in industrial maintenance, I cannot stress enough the benefits of a good solid run of wire.

Also, if you want a boost controller wired in all you have to do is send the controller harness in to them and they'll make it into your harness.

Hello guys. I didn't feel like making a new thread, so I hope I can post here. My issue might be wires related.
I own a '89 rs13 200sx. Obviously CA18DET powered since I'm european.

The car idled kinda bad, unstable and low. It also choked when I gave it gas (this is when cold). So yeah my ECU was givin me EC 13. Me and dad decided to take the sensor out and check it. The jack was all corroded so no wonder it didn't work. Cleaned it and sprayed some electronics spray and put it back in. It worked better when we started it up. The idle was still low and crappy, but it wasn't choking, but this was only for that time. The EC 13 remained and on the next start it started choking again.

Then we bought a new sensor and installed it. Same s***. I disconnected the battery over night, and made sure the ECU resetted (it did, it showed code 55). Then I drove it a bit. It wasn't really choking, not as bad as before that is. It choked only if i gave it a little gas while it was idling (at low rpms). The EC 13 returned again obviously...

Could it be the wires? Maybe the jack is bad (considering it was all oxidized, maybe the wires also rotted or got loose?). I told dad we should inspect it a bit better.
Dad told me to let it be, until we get enough money to start working properly on it, and he told me how do I know that the EC 13 is only related to the temp sensor and it's wiring? He said the black box on the intake valve (throttle sensor and idle switch) could maybe be the cause of EC 13, but wouldn't it a show a different code then?

Damn I feel like my post is all over the place lol

You totally just thread jacked this person's thread. Just so you know, you should have started a new thread. We're pretty chill here on NICO in general, and especially here in the CA forum. No worries, but next time, start a new one.

That being said, if the connector was corroded, it's likely the wiring is corroded where it is crimped to the connector as well. It's also possible that the wiring is bad somewhere, or that the ECM is bad (least likely).