CA18det Vacuum lines help!!

[shroomguy]

I did the CA18det engine and transmission swap in my 1989 240 coupe in October and It runs ok..But, I do not have the vacuum diagram for the engine and the diagrams i got from other peoples sites all have BOV's which i do not have. The car drives fast but b/c of the vacuum lines being hooked up wrong I have no brakes!! the car stops as if the car was turned off. Also the car backfires from the intake when not warmed up enough. I work for Firestone and the technicians at my shop said that it is the vacuum lines being hooked up wrong but they do not know how they should be hooked up either. I was hoping someone with this car and engine could help me out. I have been trying to get this car back on the road for a long time. Please help me

[driftin8ez]

If you dont have a BOV block off the nipple with a vac cap. I cant believe you would drive a car without the brake booster being hooked up.

[shroomguy]

my hotpipe on my CA18 does not have a place to hook up a vacuum line into it. so do I make a hole and attatch the line from the wastegate, it is blocked off right now.

[float_6969]

You can remove the turbo outlet elbow, drill and tap a hole, and put a threaded by nipple brass fitting in there. That' what I did.

[shroomguy]

I also have the 2 lines from the front of the throttle body going to my charcoal canister. If I block those lines off from the Throttle body, Do i need to block the nipples on the canister too? If I set it up this way would the car be able to pass emmissions? Or is there a way to make it pass an emmissions test w/out the charcoal canister?

[shroomguy]

This is how my vacuum lines are setup right now.. The red lines. what about the air intake vacuum line? is it where it is supposed to be.

[shroomguy]

What about this line coming from the turbo? mine is cut and blocked off is that ok? or does it need to go somewhere important? And I do Have a carbon canister so would the lines be any different?

[driftin8ez]

best thing is to run that line directly to the waste gate and nothing else.

[float_6969]

Yea, I don't like running the wastegate line that far across the engine bay. It can give you some bad boost spikes.

[MasterZenki]

Did you mean something like this for the direct turbo - wastegate plug in??

[shroomguy]

ok that doesn't make sense first you tell me from the back of the tb to the air intake needs to be T'd in with the wastegate now the wastegate has to go to the nipple off of the turbo only? which one is it?

[MasterZenki]

best thing is to run that line directly to the waste gate and nothing else.

i was quoting this guy...i was wondering if thats what he meant cuz if it is i might do it...

[float_6969]

Did you mean something like this for the direct turbo - wastegate plug in??

This is the right way to do it.

[MasterZenki]

there you go shroom guy....you heard it from the float...

float_6969 - what do i plug that nipple thing that leads to the turbo intake near the MAF

[MasterZenki]

ok i did that....plugged it directly....how is the actuator supposed to react?? is the arm supposed to move or something because i dont see anything different

[nocwage]

With the butterfly valves connected directly to my Intake manifold I found the car tended to hesitate when transitioning from vac to boost.. Any time the vac spiked the car kind of hesitates and I figure it's the butterfly valves opening unpredictably.. I suggest just leaving it disconnected if you don't have the correct hardware..

[MasterZenki]

oh no no not the butterfly actuator....i meant the wastegate actuator....it has play and my bro told me it should be solid....

Shroomguy ill keep you updated with my vacuum lines....

[shroomguy]

thanks i hope we get it figured out soon i need to get this car on the road again....

[float_6969]

It shouldn't have much play in it. If you can move the arm back and forth enough to make the wastegate arm visibly move with out putting A LOT of effort into it, then the actuator is probably bad.

You won't ever see it move when the car is not moving. It will remain stationary until you near the 7-10psi mark. That kind of flow can't be achieved w/o a considerable load. (You can't do it at idle)

[dattodude]

You could test the wastegate valve if you have compressor and an air blower attachment. Wind the compressor up 10psi and push the nozzle into a hose connected to the wastegate valve.

[MasterZenki]

You could test the wastegate valve if you have compressor and an air blower attachment. Wind the compressor up 10psi and push the nozzle into a hose connected to the wastegate valve.

-pump 10psi-blow into wastegate inlet-?? wat next?

what do i accomplish from this or what do i find out?

[ragin240sx]

so if i directly connect cold side to wastegate what do i do with that hose that isnt being used?

[float_6969]

Holy Necroposter batman! Nice searching though.

Which hose. Your question was pretty vague.

[ragin240sx]

the one that is red'd out that runs to the other side of the engine. its the one that goes from one to two lines

[splintercell]

i capped my nipple coming off turbo. the nipple coming off actuator is going to boost controller.

[914slide]

Did you mean something like this for the direct turbo - wastegate plug in??

This is the right way to do it.

And this will give it stock boost levels ? i would like this opposed to a cheap boost controller set to stock

[float_6969]

Yes, that should give you stock boost levels, about 7 psi. Thanks for searching!!!

[biosehnsucht]

for hesitation issues with butterflies directly connected, try using the appropriate check/delay valves.. Ideally hook it up like stock (see my secondary butterflies thread) or use a vacuum pump to make it independent of the rest of the vacuum/intake system.

Huh, what happened to all the images in my secondary butterflies post? They're not broken, they're completely missing (no image tags) ??? I can't seem to edit it either... I'm going to at least post the image URLs to that thread.