hey guys
i have some very frustrating problems with my ca18det ever since i have rebuilt the engine.
basically this was what was done to my engine:
- bigger pistons (83.5 mm) wiseco-wiseco multi layer steel head gasket-crank and rods balanced with SPEC clutch.-used grinding paste to clean up valve seats-changed valve seals-tomei high lift speings 10.25mm lift (around)-stock cams and stock camshafts-sr20det t25 turbo-new gaskets everywhere
and that pretty much it., i also took off the little flaps inside the intake that help the car idle better (apparently) along with the valve looking like thing that actuates the flaps (left the rod inside)
so basically, before i rebuilt my engine, it was running practicly perfect besides for some little idle problems and a misfire once in a while(didnt gap plugs and i used iridium :P)
so ever since i rebuilt the car, i have a hell of a hard time starting the car. it takes around 10-20 cranks before it starts up fine and in between those cranks, it starts up and then dies a couple of secs later. i have this problem when the engine is cold only
also, when the engine is cold, when i press the gas pedal too much, the engine just shuts off almost. what i mean is that ni press the gas and it stops firing or anything, the idle just goes down slowly as if i wasnt pressing the gas pedal at all. and sometimes it will sputter and backfire but wont go up in rpm.
then as the engine gets hotter and reach the optimal temperature, when i floor the gas suddenly (under no load) it backfires a few times at 3000 rpm and then goes up to whatever rpm it cuts off at. if i press the gas lightly it doesnt have any problems at all. its really when i suddenly open the throttle in one shot completely
when i take my car for a drive its a different story, when i press the gas gently while driving, it doesnt seem to have any problems besides for a lack of power for a few seconds while the turbo is spooling (in low rpm's) then once i reach around 3500rpm it start to sort of misfire or something. but then if i release the gas and restart pressing it gently, it revs up slightly higher and then starts misfiring /backfiring / sputtering again.
when i floor the car, it start pulling up to around 3500 rpm, but then it just starts misfiring/backfiring/sputtering liek crazy and the car stays at like 4000rpm!
i tried everything from timing to cehcking resistance and connections to all the electric components and even checking all the vaccum leaks on the intake!
THERE IS NOTHING WRONG WITH THE CAR i think
DID I FORGET TO CHECK ANYTHING OR SOMETHING??
is it possible that wiseco sent be pistons with a higher compression???
please help me guys! its already been close to 2 monthst that i have been trying to figure out the problem!
CA18det trouble!!! help please!!
You've changed alot. it'll make troubleshooting a pita. So what tests have you done so far? Depending on the composition of the pistons, and how accurate the bore was, it can cause some initial starting problems. Who did the ring spacing and the bore job? Did they take any measurements afterwards and did they record them for you?
done a comp test yet? if so, post numbers. again, you've been staring at this thing for 2 months, what have you tested so far and what have you recalibrated and so on.
done a comp test yet? if so, post numbers. again, you've been staring at this thing for 2 months, what have you tested so far and what have you recalibrated and so on.
Re: CA18det trouble!!! help please!! (krabstarr)
Can't go past a certain RPM? 90% of the time its a fuel system issue.
Check Fuel PressureCheck Fuel Pressure RegulatorCheck Fuel Filter
Last CheckMAF, TPS, CAS, Fuel Injector grounds, and Timing.
These last things would account for almost the remaining 10%
Check Fuel PressureCheck Fuel Pressure RegulatorCheck Fuel Filter
Last CheckMAF, TPS, CAS, Fuel Injector grounds, and Timing.
These last things would account for almost the remaining 10%
well basically, i sent the block to a machine shop that has a very good reputation and got my block bored by them and assembled by them. i hgave them the pistons with the list of specs about them so they did the ring spacing and the overbore accoring to the papers
i havent done a compression test yet since it really was the last thing on my mind to check for the moment, but i guess ill check this out today and post some numbers up.
the car isnt burning any poil me thinks since the only time there is smoke comming out is when it cuts off at 4000rpm and the smoke is black, basically i am not running to lean or anything (to rich perhaps but that shouldnt affect the engine so much right?
anyways, thanks for the advice so far guys and ill check my compression now
as for the tests on the electrical components, i basically did a diagnosis test with the ecu lights (red and green) and everything is working according to the computer. i even checked with the mutimeter the continuity of the wires to see if everything is sommected right and i also did the tests on the CAS, MAF, tps, injects, coils, o2, etc to check the resistance and the connections and everything was very close to original specs according to the service manual.
i noticed though that i cannot check continuity/resistance on my ignitor chip for some reason. the service manual says that is you connect certain pins on each side there should be continuity. but nbo matter how i connect the rods to test, there is no continuity
i dont know why, maybe thats ****ed, but i doubt it since spark plugs are firing ok
i havent done a compression test yet since it really was the last thing on my mind to check for the moment, but i guess ill check this out today and post some numbers up.
the car isnt burning any poil me thinks since the only time there is smoke comming out is when it cuts off at 4000rpm and the smoke is black, basically i am not running to lean or anything (to rich perhaps but that shouldnt affect the engine so much right?
anyways, thanks for the advice so far guys and ill check my compression now
as for the tests on the electrical components, i basically did a diagnosis test with the ecu lights (red and green) and everything is working according to the computer. i even checked with the mutimeter the continuity of the wires to see if everything is sommected right and i also did the tests on the CAS, MAF, tps, injects, coils, o2, etc to check the resistance and the connections and everything was very close to original specs according to the service manual.
i noticed though that i cannot check continuity/resistance on my ignitor chip for some reason. the service manual says that is you connect certain pins on each side there should be continuity. but nbo matter how i connect the rods to test, there is no continuity
i dont know why, maybe thats ****ed, but i doubt it since spark plugs are firing ok
Re: (krabstarr)
Few other guys on the forums seems to be having exact same problem.
Looks like its the igniter chip. It may be appearing to spark fine, but it's probably not firing as precisely as it should. Try replacing the igniter.
Looks like its the igniter chip. It may be appearing to spark fine, but it's probably not firing as precisely as it should. Try replacing the igniter.
Re: (Tr0uble)
really??
alright ill give that a try
today i redid my timing belt because i though that might have been the problem since when i put it on, i alligned the timing marks on the cam gears and cranck sprocket to the lines on the block
but ap[parently you are supposed to cound the cogs between the timing marks on the cams and cranck sprocket
so i redid the timing to the number of cogs and it still does the saaame garbage!!!
im freekin loosing it
ill try another ignitor chip
hopefully itll work
alright ill give that a try
today i redid my timing belt because i though that might have been the problem since when i put it on, i alligned the timing marks on the cam gears and cranck sprocket to the lines on the block
but ap[parently you are supposed to cound the cogs between the timing marks on the cams and cranck sprocket
so i redid the timing to the number of cogs and it still does the saaame garbage!!!
im freekin loosing it
ill try another ignitor chip
hopefully itll work
Re: (krabstarr)
update:
i just switched the ignitor chip and the problem still persists!!
im freekin out of ideas guys!!
if i take it to a garage (which i already tried for a full day) they couldnt figure out the problem!
is it possible that it could be a short in the wiring harness (i kinda rebuilt the harness and cut the plug for the power steering fuid sensor, the ac plug, the a/t plug and the 2 check connectors (one of the check connectors had a resistor after it , but these were all dead end wires anyway
i just switched the ignitor chip and the problem still persists!!
im freekin out of ideas guys!!
if i take it to a garage (which i already tried for a full day) they couldnt figure out the problem!
is it possible that it could be a short in the wiring harness (i kinda rebuilt the harness and cut the plug for the power steering fuid sensor, the ac plug, the a/t plug and the 2 check connectors (one of the check connectors had a resistor after it , but these were all dead end wires anyway
Re: (krabstarr)
Personally I wouldn't take it to a garage. Noone is going to know what to do anyways. Its basically a wiring and/or sensor problem. aka botched wiring job.
Unplug the MAF and see if there's any change.
Also you should perform a compression and leak down test asap and see what results you get.
............. hold on a sec.... i just re-read your post above.... did you say bigger pistons?
How much did this change engine displacement?I don't see anywhere on here where you said you tuned ECU for these upgrades.If you have a increase in displacement and are still using original stock ecu fuel maps then the ecu is not able to calculate the air/fuel ratio needs for the motor.Instead of going to a mechanic garage call up a tuning shop with a dyno and ask them if this could be the problem. Tell them you have bigger pistons and various other changes and see if all this change would cause the air/fuel problems you are experiencing.
FYI sputtering and backfires is caused by too much fuel and/or timing
Here's a crazy thought. Camshafts installed on correct side?Not sure how this might be possible. Did you install them urself and did you put them back in the right place? Timing marks might line up but if shafts on opposite sides then might still be wrong?
Unplug the MAF and see if there's any change.
Also you should perform a compression and leak down test asap and see what results you get.
............. hold on a sec.... i just re-read your post above.... did you say bigger pistons?
How much did this change engine displacement?I don't see anywhere on here where you said you tuned ECU for these upgrades.If you have a increase in displacement and are still using original stock ecu fuel maps then the ecu is not able to calculate the air/fuel ratio needs for the motor.Instead of going to a mechanic garage call up a tuning shop with a dyno and ask them if this could be the problem. Tell them you have bigger pistons and various other changes and see if all this change would cause the air/fuel problems you are experiencing.
FYI sputtering and backfires is caused by too much fuel and/or timing
Here's a crazy thought. Camshafts installed on correct side?Not sure how this might be possible. Did you install them urself and did you put them back in the right place? Timing marks might line up but if shafts on opposite sides then might still be wrong?