ca18det sputters and bogs and doesnt want to go past 3k

[eastslider]

okay i got it going but it runs like ****. im using a ka24e maf and it runs junk... it doesnt rev past 3k when driving it sputters and bogs. but in neutral it will rev past 3k. does anyone know what the problem could be? it idles fine but there is a idle dip when i rev it and when the rmps drop it drops to like 200-250 rpm. idk this sucks do u think the side mount i am using is bad? i have a A/F in and when at idle it is like .18-.24 and when florring it, it goes to like .50-.80

[javi-air]

my car had the same problem and it was my waste gauge.. it was running to much psi... get a boost gauge...

[Nali]

I had a simlar problem before on not 1 but 2 of my CAs.My 1st car had a completely faulty MAFS, so when i tried reving the ECU would enter Limp mode.

My second "and current" car had a bad ECU rom chip, which was causing the ECU again to enter Limp mode.

When revs lock a certain point its almost always the MAFS.Also did you tune your ECU to run the KA MAFS?The simplest of things can cause the ECU to enter Safe mode.I say check your MAFS wiring and your ECU codes

[eastslider]

what are the characteristics of the computer set in limp mode? it can hold idle well and it will rev past 2,500 i just need to be light on the gas max is around 3200 driving and after that it just sputters. and i can rev it in neutral to redline. i also dont have the pigtails for the maf and the ignitor chip could this play a role in my dillema? \oh and i made my own resistor for the injectors with 4 10w 10ohm resistors.

[meminto]

In limp mode, regardless of neutral or in gear setting, it will not rev past 2500rpm...

[Nali]

In limp mode, regardless of neutral or in gear setting, it will not rev past 2500rpm...

Yes this is true, which means his car only enters limp mode when in gear. Which is strange.

what are the characteristics of the computer set in limp mode? it can hold idle well and it will rev past 2,500 i just need to be light on the gas max is around 3200 driving and after that it just sputters. and i can rev it in neutral to redline. i also dont have the pigtails for the maf and the ignitor chip could this play a role in my dillema? \oh and i made my own resistor for the injectors with 4 10w 10ohm resistors.

When an ECU is in limp mode it cuts power at 2000, 2500 or 3000 rpm. When my car had this problem it would stop revs at exactly 2000rpm, whether i was in gear or not.

I think your wiring might be messed up and when you get into gear something trips the wires causing the ECU to panic, try tracking all the wires and check that there is current going through them.

Another quick suggestion, Vaccum Leak??

Its the weekend so you might have to wait for the True CA experts to pop up on Monday.

[eastslider]

LOL damn there ir gonna be a fat 240sx cruise this sunday damn all the 240 drift goons are gonna comeout. and i would be one of them if my car was working properly. but i dont have pig tails for the maf and ignitor chip u think that could mess it up when a lot of current is going trough it rapidly?

[eastslider]

does anyone think it could be the coils? because there was water inside but i dried it out and took out the spark plugs shoot lube inside cranked it but do you think that could affect it? because i think its something with spark and it doesnt work under load well im gonna go junk yard and grab the sohc pigtail

[eastslider]

up date... i grabbed the pigtails for the ignitor chip too. so i have the maf and the ignitor chip wired properly. and it still sputters around 3k and when i started the car one time there was a solid green light. does anyone this it has something to do with spark?

[eastslider]

BBBbuuuuuuuuump

[ca18detgabby]

a solid green light where? in the engine bay?

I would be checking my grounds and I would also borrow someone elses maf and see if the KA-E maf maybe isnt bad....

next I would also check out the wiring.... maybe you are grounding out somewhere.

[eastslider]

this is so puzzling bump

[busteds13]

you need to make sure your resistor for the injectors is working correctly that resistor makes sure your injectors pulse off during ignition cycles, look through the stickies and go do the DSM resistor swap, cheep and quick.I believe that is your problem, cause if your injectors dont pulse good under load the car would have issues, wheras the fact that it revs off of load just fine could be hiding the problem cause the engine is just increasing revs not power, no load. if your resistor DIY pack isint letting the injectors open enough it cause a really rich condicion.what color are your plugs?for that matter what is your whole set up, provide everyone with better info and more organised info and you will get better more in depth answers.

thats my rusty 2 cents hope it helps.

[ri120]

yah pull the plugs and look at them. (tell us how they look) i bought my ca and it was doing about the same thing. except mine idled like garbage to. my problem was the kid before me melted the piston rings off 2 pistons and melted the edge of 1 piston. so i had super low compression and it was coughing out on oil. it kindof does sound like a limp mode situation the way you describes it. limp mode can be caused be just one of the major imputs to the ecu missing. if you do need a dsm resistor box i got like 6 of them hanging around here that i pulled out of junk yards

[ca18detgabby]

yah pull the plugs and look at them. (tell us how they look) i bought my ca and it was doing about the same thing. except mine idled like garbage to. my problem was the kid before me melted the piston rings off 2 pistons and melted the edge of 1 piston. so i had super low compression and it was coughing out on oil. it kindof does sound like a limp mode situation the way you describes it. limp mode can be caused be just one of the major imputs to the ecu missing. if you do need a dsm resistor box i got like 6 of them hanging around here that i pulled out of junk yards

I could use a extra resistor pack.... pm me with how much you want for one. I might even take 2 just for safety sake

To the OP:

you arent using one of those wonderful "tuned" ECUs that shops like to give people that rarely if ever are tuned properly to the Engine they are sent with? it used to a real issue for alot people and I ended up get 3 of them from the same canadain distributor(all of which werent even CA ECUs) only to have to call Dee to pick one up that I knew was good.

[eastslider]

well it revs past 3k now it was cuz of a leak in the BOV but i blocked it off with jb weld and gasket sealer. i grabbed the dsm injector resistor form the junk yard... does the same thing idk i think i need to make a vid or somehting for the best detail. and im using cold plugs. bkr7e. and after driving and sliding for like 20 mins after that the engine sputters so littlebit u can just hear like a real minnor pop/bog after i slam the pedal. so idk after diving it for a super long time the problem goes away. and i fixed my temp sensor and my knock sensor. my friend was riding and he said it doesnt feel like a boost leak. ugg i want to fix this i hate either driving real slow so it doesnt bog or let it bog for 2 secs then drive it in boost all the time...when its really warmed up i like the throttle feel of this stock this and i wanna get it running right because i wanna have 100% fuel efficiency right now im at like 70% or so and damn this thing sipps gas compared to the ka... oh do u think it could be the stock ka fuel pump or the FPR if ****ed up? how do i test it?