CA18DET Rebuild

[MeanGreenS13]

since im going to do a CA18DET... and its an older motor... ive decided to do a basic OEM rebuild on the engine with a full engine gasket kit from Nissan.

I'm planning on leaving the factory rotating assembly intact, not even going to touch it unless the leakdown test prior to teardown worries me.

My plans are to put an oem head gasket with ARP head bolts, and all new engine gaskets with a new water pump to top it all off

im thinking for now just stay stock turbo and drive it around and save up some money for rods pistons etc to build a nasty 400+ whp ca, but ive started reading mixed reviews on an OEM rebuild such as im doing. People saying that the headbolts are the weak part of the CA and thats the only thing holding the engine back from making as much power on stock internals as an SR20DET.

Can someone please shine some light on this for me because ive heard things all the way from the CA is good to 300 stock to its good to 550whp stock...

thanks guys i know its a douchebag question but i cannot afford a ****up

phil

[ch187]

rod bolts are the major weakness. ive heard about stretching headbolts at certain power levels also. keep it at 300whp on stock internals and you should be good.

[c-rad]

I would seriously invest $100 into a new oil pump. Its not something you want to die on you or have to replace once the motor is in the car.

[ILOVESILVIA(S13)]

100$ for a new oil pump! Where did you see that at? All the places I went to were like 288 dollars.

I'd love to know.

[driftin8ez]

100$ for a new oil pump! Where did you see that at? All the places I went to were like 288 dollars.

I'd love to know.

[themadscientist]

$300.00 for an oil pump? WTF? It's the same pump as a CA18DE. If you are going to rebuild then ****ing do it. Just replacing the head gasket, what the hell is that supposed to do? Do it or don't do it. Never heard of stretching head bolts. They are just M11, I'm sure it's possible. The rod bolts are small too; I would worry about those first.

[ch187]

it was a while back ive heard it but stopped hearing it? ah well, still i wont take beyond 300 without a total rebuild. and since this is a thread about rebuilding. say you had rod knock, bearings chewed up your crank. you machine the crank and used over sized bearings. what are the disadvantages?

[themadscientist]

I would weld the crank and have the journal remachined to OE size. Just my opinion. Be sure to have it checked for straightness and balance.

[MeanGreenS13]

i just really want this motor to get me around on the Stock turbo, SR T25 or Pulsar/Skyline T28 for a little while under 300whp... im gonna build one on the side but the car im looking at is gonna need that KA pulled out rather soon or its gonna get REAL expensive to drive while i try to build a CA.

that one will get the new oil pump

[ch187]

for those power goals you will at least need an s14/s15 gt28r. the skyline jimmy's are too small.

[ILOVESILVIA(S13)]

"300 for an oil pump"!

Thats exactley what I said bro. And yes it was for a CA18de. My block is still at the machine shop, I guess I can keep looking to see if I can find it cheaper elsewhere. However, Ive been to all the autoparts stores around my area and their the same price. So again if anyone knows where to get it for cheaper than 288$, then please let me know.

[ch187]

partsamerica has them for 235..

[c-rad]

Nissan OEM from an '89 Pulsar... $101.49

http://www.trademotion.com/par...gid=1

Oh, and make sure you order a new crank timing gear as the one you have now will most likely need to be destroyed in order to be removed.

Second from the top-- http://www.trademotion.com/par...gid=1

[ch187]

yeah i figured they were cheap. i just looked up one for my brother for the KA and it was like $84 from the dealer before my discount.

[ILOVESILVIA(S13)]

Thanks for the link on the oil pump! As for the crank gear, well, lets just say I got raped by the dealership on that one. I ordered that about a month ago because none of the part stores around here have it. Lets just say I paid double for what that link says. Oh yea, they still have not gotten it in. Stupid on my part, a definate yes.

[AWDB12wagon]

http://www.importperformanceparts.net Check it out, they have a toga oil pump for our cars...also complete gasket sets for around $100.

[themadscientist]

I renamed my chisel the "crank gear removal tool"

[MeanGreenS13]

so last night i went ahead and ordered the following for my new CA18DET

ARP Head Studs, ARP Main Studs, JUN Rod Bolts, Cometic Head gasket, New Water Pump, New Oil Pump, Clevitte Bearings (rod and main) New rings, all new engine gaskets and seals.

Going to keep stock rods and pistons in there as well as stock valve train for now

IF what ive been told is right, the engine should be good in this form till about 450-500whp. Anyone think different? i just want 400whp lol

[MeanGreenS13]

also forgot to mention Power Enterprises Timing Belt and new idler and tensioner pulleys

[c-rad]

Don't forget you need to get the bottom end balanced now that are replacing the rod bolts. And no, you are still bound to about 300ish whp mark due to the stock cast pistons.

[Jiggyfry]

I got my oil pump from NICO sponsor EverythingNissan. 100$ U.S$.

Might I also suggest a new water pump? Its a good idea.

[MeanGreenS13]

i got everything

c-rad, id like to know where you got your information. I had a lengthy conversation via phone and email exchange with DEE today, he said 400whp is plenty safe on stock rods and pistons as long as its tuned properly. He said main weaknesses are rod bolts and head bolts.

[c-rad]

i got everything

c-rad, id like to know where you got your information. I had a lengthy conversation via phone and email exchange with DEE today, he said 400whp is plenty safe on stock rods and pistons as long as its tuned properly. He said main weaknesses are rod bolts and head bolts.

Go for it man... let us know how it turns out.

[MeanGreenS13]

Dee said he has doen it a few times... so i trust that seeing as he seems to be the person i am most referred to all over the nissan boards, not just here at nico...

[AWDB12wagon]

Where to get JUN rod bolts??? Very interested.

[MeanGreenS13]

EDO Performance sells them... $264 for a set

[boost_boy]

Some food for thought for everyone that cares to read, and Chris, by no means am I trying to down-play anything you say as I do have the utmost repsect for you, but a used stock nissan JDM CA18DET with minimal wear to it's bearings, at least 140psi of pressure per cylinder and some healthy oil presure from the oil pump can support over 400whp granted you have a decent engine management system, that's well-tuned, and also have the supporting components to boot.

Though the rod bolts can be blamed as problem area, it is not a CA18DET weak link. The problem is that these engines were abused before you got it. The bearings were already worn, but yet you try and rev the schnott out of the thing like it's a fresh rebuild or something? If your bottm end shows heavy wear, you may want to get the problem areas looked at by a competent machine shop. Excessively abused engines should have their rod bolts check for stretching, but I seriously doubt they would've stretched.

Though the headgasket has been said to be a weak link, it is not. If the engine has been over-heated before, the headgasket is already in trouble. You don't know what your engine has gone through before it made it to you, but then you go and crank-up the boost and advance the timing a bit whilst using a side mount intercooler? Sorry guys, but you can kiss your headgasket, pistons, bearings, head, bearings, and/or rings goodbye. Pushing the stock ECCS system past it's limits will usually kill engine components. Pushing the stock turbo past it's efficiency band usually creates a huge problem in the area of detonation which destroys pistons and melts heads as well. Advancing the timing onthis thing like it's some honda engine or SR20DET is just absolute retarded and anyone that has done it is just plain hard-headed. You want more power, spend some money.

Though the pistons have said to be good up to 300whp, that's a crock of $hit. These pistons are not as weak as you think. Hell, I've destroyed some fresh wiseco slugs back in 1999 in less than 1,000miles and this was due to poor engine management. And this was done on low boost. I've gotten more than 400whp daily out of the stock CA pistons and the 300whp and the stock CA pistons are a gimme if you know what you're doing. So this myth about the CA pistons is just what it is .........

For you rod bolt bandits: I have measured the length of numerous CA18DET rod bolts in my garage and the conclusion is see no evidence of rod bolts stretching. I have a gang of rods and went above and beyond to try and back-up this new theory about CA rod bolts being too small and stretching and I'm sorry to conclude that I cannot find the evidence to support this rod bolt stretching thing. I don't know who started this and I honestly don't care, but may I suggest some of you do your own leg-work to determine a part on your motor is out of spec as opposed to buying into rumors because you're going to find yourself spending money foolishly on stuff you really don't need.

In closing, the rods that are in my sentra's engine has been around for a long, long, long time and I have never even looked at the rod bolts as problem are, even when I was experiencing crank issues. An align-bore squared away my problem and I 2-step at 7000rpm and rev the oil out of this engine. Headbolts, if you're doing headwork, just buy you a new set as those do stretch and have crewed myself with this a long time ago. Or you guys can just do whatever! I'm just trying to help some of you who are possibly confused as to what's where or why. As usual, good luck!

Dee

[boost_boy]

i got everything

c-rad, id like to know where you got your information. I had a lengthy conversation via phone and email exchange with DEE today, he said 400whp is plenty safe on stock rods and pistons as long as its tuned properly. He said main weaknesses are rod bolts and head bolts.

Let me correct you big dog, per my email, I told you that the parts you ordered to include the JUN rod bolts will defintitely support over 400whp, but I never told you that the main weaknesses are rod bolts and headbolts. I'm too big on supporting the stock hardware to even muster up such a saying. You can double check our emails and you will see. Mistakes do happen and it's all good. I just want to make sure I gave you the best possible information that will help you achieve your objectives. Rap with you later, man..........

Dee

[MeanGreenS13]

i must have misunderstood what you said but beside that, THe main reason im doing my engine the way i am, is so it will be fresh. Im not doing anything super fancy or expensive, i know these motors are good and strong. my main reason for chosing one like i said is that i feel the SR heads are designed horribly. That is the reason 90% of people who rev over 8500rpm solid lifter or not, break a rocker arm once in a while. Do not misconstrue my love for the SR, it was my first boosted engine, and was incredible fun to drive. But its become a "bandwagon" motor to me, as well as the SR, and theres still PLENTY of support for the CA out there so why not help bring back its popularity.

IM building this motor so it will be SAFE for daily driver street/strip car. I dont plan for 400whp at all times... i may get closer to 450whp... low boost daily id like to stick around 300whp should be MORE than fun and safe on the street. Im still learning about the CA as i go along, i absorb alot of information dee, thats where i might have gotten some crossed words somehow. Im on my computer every minute i can be researching the CA everywhere.

please check your email also, sent you a question related to an older post of yours

phil