CA18DET questions

[ca18detizzle]

Hello. This is my first post to be friendly ok? I know all you NICO owners are kool. Well, I own a 240sx s13 FB and I'm planning on putting a CA18DET motor into it. My plans on the car is to boost about 12-15 psi VERY SAFELY and also be really RELIABLE. Just about 205-215hp. Not much.. just reliable and something high revving with B00ST..

So my questions are:

1. I'm aware that the CA is OLDER (1year than the SR20) and would call for a rebuild? What kind of rebuild would I need for my setup? Would the whole bottom end such as pistons, crankshaft, etc?

2. Are most of the CA18det front clips that bad and would NEED to be rebuilt?

3. Also would upgrading the valve springs, cam shafts, headgasket, driveshaft would affect the amount of boost my motor is capable of doing without changing the pistons / gaskets?

4. Can the ARP head studs from the KA24DE fit the CA18DET RWD? ( I'm guessing yes. )

5. What is the stock bore for the headgasket? Would it be a good idea increasing it?

Sorry if these are noob questions and feel free to flame on me if you want. Just trying to get some information. Heh, thought this was a good place to start.

-jeff

[RMiller]

1. The motor will still have around the same mileage as an sr. You do not need to rebuild it. You do need to get basic maintenance parts like a water pump, timing belt, etc.

2. Same question

3. Read around on this site so you have a better idea about how an engine works. If you want 205 hp only it's not worth the hassle of swapping in a motor. You might get that at the crank n/a with the ka.

4. Do not buy ARP head studs unless you want sick horsepower.

5. Eh? You probably mean thickness. Use a headgasket for an 88 pulsar nx se from a Nissan dealer.

It doesn't sound like you're up for swapping in a motor. If you want more power, you should do some basic bolt ons for your ka.

[ca18detizzle]

I was thinking the same, but my KAE has SO much miles on it, not sure if would like to go that route.

[ca18detizzle]

plus finding internals for the KAE is so hard to find...

[RMiller]

plus finding internals for the KAE is so hard to find...

You don't need internals. Leave them alone.

[ca18detizzle]

well a stock KAE has what? 135hp? and my goal would be 200-220.. with all the mods I would have invested into the KAE with basic boltons would cost me hella as it is.. if i were to go with the turbo route and boost my kaE 7psi for a good 200 hp, what within a year or something my motor craps out. Plus I love how the CA can high rev with it's displacement of 1.8 compared to a 2.4 low revving kae.

So are you considering for me to keep my KA still? I'm confused from what you are saying. Are you saying that for me upgrading my CA18's internals and boosting 14psi would be a bad idea and wouldnt be as reliable as my current one? Or is it a bad idea period for me going with the swap with the HP I'm needing?

[ca18detizzle]

also if i were to go with the KAE n/a route, it would cost me what.. a good $700 for 30hp with basic boltons? Also the gas on that would be so killer.. Yes, I'm aware I'll be boosting the CA and that still uses up hella gas but I drive pretty conservative when I need to. But still be pretty good on the tracks.

[ca18s13]

well a stock KAE has what? 135hp? and my goal would be 200-220..

You would be lucky to get even 110 hp out of a KAE.......

[biosehnsucht]

I put something around 110 hp to the wheels on my KA24E.. leaking injectors, bad exhaust system, removed Y pipe to the resonator as my only upgrade..

[ca18detizzle]

so if i purchase my front clip from a reputable source, i would most likely need to change the bottom end? pistons / crankshaft? or would it be fine with boosts of 15psi with a proper fuel system?

[biosehnsucht]

Depends on your luck. I'd say pull the head and see if it looks ok, also pull the oil pan and check the bearings down there too. If it all looks good, slap on a new HG and etc and go, altho if you're going to check the bearings anyways if you have the money might as well replace them while you're down there.. some motors have few miles and are in good condition, others have been ragged on. All have been likely sitting in a yard for close to a decade..

I'm doing a full rebuild, but then thats why I bought a blown motor to do it on.

As for the fuel, I'm no expert. But I'm leaving mine at stock boost until I get some DSM or S4 FC injectors and a bigger MAF, then I'll burn a new ROM to account for it, but until then stock boost..

[Xero]

Everett, eh? What part, Downtown or South?

[float_6969]

OK, here's my look on it. I was kind of in the same boat you are. I had a KAE in my car and hadn't actually planned on swapping the motor until after I had the suspension sorted out. The problem was that my KAE had about 210K miles on it. It started buring oil pretty badly about 2 months after I got it, then an exhaust manifold bolt broke off in the head and started leaking exhaust into the engine bay and I kept melting spark plug wires. For me I had to have a new motor. The money that I would have had to invest to fix the one I had warrented my purchasing the motor that I wanted for the car eventually anyway, so I did so. My problem was that the motor that I got wasn't in a whole lot better shape than the one that I took out. I'm currently rebuilding my CA due to a bad set rings. Also all the rod bearings were worn and the was some scoring on the #3 cylnder and piston. Unfortunatly I was one of the unlucky ones and got a motor that had been beaten on. Most actually seem to be more lucky than that. Ultimatly, the choice is yours. If your motor isn't running well and needs replaced, then put the motor you want in it. If it's running fine, then it will probabally continue to run well for at least the next year or so. I would personally put more money into your suspension, wheels, tires, seats, & steering wheel. This is from experience. I've had a 240 with a stock motor and badarse suspension and a 240 with a stock suspension and badarse motor. I'd take the good handling 240 over a powerful 240 anyday, no questions asked.