Ca18det Pissing me off..

Discuss topics related to the CA18DE and CA18DET series engines.
nickmerrone
Posts: 109
Joined: Fri Feb 06, 2009 2:47 pm
Car: s13 hatch
Location: Philly, Pa
Contact:

Post

Okay cold starts, Suck. It breaks up like crazy if you go to push the gas from a cold start. Once warmed up, rev it like 3 or 4 times and itll break up, but after that run fine..after driving for a while it will occasionally break up at random a** times..


things ive tried:

4 new coil packs
New plugs
new fuel pump
new fuel filter
Knock sensor is done with resistor


boost_boy
Posts: 7051
Joined: Thu Nov 14, 2002 7:28 am
Car: B12 sentra w/built CA18DET, B12 sentra w/fully-built CA18DET, S13 coupe w/ CA18DET, S13 hatch w/CA18DET, 2002 maxima SE
Location: Miami, FL.
Contact:

Post

nickmerrone wrote:Okay cold starts, Suck. It breaks up like crazy if you go to push the gas from a cold start. Once warmed up, rev it like 3 or 4 times and itll break up, but after that run fine..after driving for a while it will occasionally break up at random a** times..


things ive tried:

4 new coil packs
New plugs
new fuel pump
new fuel filter
Knock sensor is done with resistor
Hmmm, no mentioning of checking the ecu. Okay, if you are having a problem during cold start, did you try checking the cold start solenoid and it's circuitry? The CA18 is only as bad as the installer/tuner/owner :facepalm: It's a machine that can be repaired, but the owner must first diagnose what is wrong his machine.

nickmerrone
Posts: 109
Joined: Fri Feb 06, 2009 2:47 pm
Car: s13 hatch
Location: Philly, Pa
Contact:

Post

boost_boy wrote:
nickmerrone wrote:Okay cold starts, Suck. It breaks up like crazy if you go to push the gas from a cold start. Once warmed up, rev it like 3 or 4 times and itll break up, but after that run fine..after driving for a while it will occasionally break up at random a** times..


things ive tried:

4 new coil packs
New plugs
new fuel pump
new fuel filter
Knock sensor is done with resistor
Hmmm, no mentioning of checking the ecu. Okay, if you are having a problem during cold start, did you try checking the cold start solenoid and it's circuitry? The CA18 is only as bad as the installer/tuner/owner :facepalm: It's a machine that can be repaired, but the owner must first diagnose what is wrong his machine.

I installe the motor..And Sorry but yeah checked the ecu throwing code 55. which is good to go right? Also took the IACV off and cleaned the inside. Made it run a little better.

boost_boy
Posts: 7051
Joined: Thu Nov 14, 2002 7:28 am
Car: B12 sentra w/built CA18DET, B12 sentra w/fully-built CA18DET, S13 coupe w/ CA18DET, S13 hatch w/CA18DET, 2002 maxima SE
Location: Miami, FL.
Contact:

Post

Code 55 means your ecu didn't find a fault on the components that are monitored by the ECCS, but there's still semi-critical components that will not set a code. Have you tried changing said component? it is pretty old it is about time for it to fail as well. If you want to be nosy, take it off the engine and look inside of it to see where the plate is sitting. If you sprayed any type of cleaner in that thing, it's a wrap and you need to get another one. Or maybe the thing is not getting any power? At cold start, take a voltmeter to the harness of IACV and see if there's any voltage to it. If there's no voltage, then there's part of your problem. But if voltage exists, then the part could have very well faultered. And lastly, do you have the vacuum hose connected properly to bung on the intercooler pipe that runs into the throttle body?

nickmerrone
Posts: 109
Joined: Fri Feb 06, 2009 2:47 pm
Car: s13 hatch
Location: Philly, Pa
Contact:

Post

boost_boy wrote:Code 55 means your ecu didn't find a fault on the components that are monitored by the ECCS, but there's still semi-critical components that will not set a code. Have you tried changing said component? it is pretty old it is about time for it to fail as well. If you want to be nosy, take it off the engine and look inside of it to see where the plate is sitting. If you sprayed any type of cleaner in that thing, it's wrap and you need to get another one. Or maybe the thing is not getting any power? At cold start, take a voltmeter to the harness of IACV and see if there's any voltage to it. If there's no voltage, then there's part of your problem. But if voltage exists, then the part could have very well faultered. And lastly, do you have the vacuum hose connected properly to bung on the intercooler pipe that runs into the throttle body?
Yes. I have it going into the intercooler piping. What are you asking me to replace? Said component..haha. What is said component!

I really dont think it has anything to do with the iacv..I just drove the car. drives fine, rips hard as s*** but then randomly around like 2k it'll go popopopopopop then go.

boost_boy
Posts: 7051
Joined: Thu Nov 14, 2002 7:28 am
Car: B12 sentra w/built CA18DET, B12 sentra w/fully-built CA18DET, S13 coupe w/ CA18DET, S13 hatch w/CA18DET, 2002 maxima SE
Location: Miami, FL.
Contact:

Post

nickmerrone wrote:
boost_boy wrote:Code 55 means your ecu didn't find a fault on the components that are monitored by the ECCS, but there's still semi-critical components that will not set a code. Have you tried changing said component? it is pretty old it is about time for it to fail as well. If you want to be nosy, take it off the engine and look inside of it to see where the plate is sitting. If you sprayed any type of cleaner in that thing, it's wrap and you need to get another one. Or maybe the thing is not getting any power? At cold start, take a voltmeter to the harness of IACV and see if there's any voltage to it. If there's no voltage, then there's part of your problem. But if voltage exists, then the part could have very well faultered. And lastly, do you have the vacuum hose connected properly to bung on the intercooler pipe that runs into the throttle body?
Yes. I have it going into the intercooler piping. What are you asking me to replace? Said component..haha. What is said component!

I really dont think it has anything to do with the iacv..I just drove the car. drives fine, rips hard as s*** but then randomly around like 2k it'll go popopopopopop then go.
Since you want to get wise about it and ask the silly question
What is said component
when you knew exactly what I was talking about because you said you don't think it's your IACV, then why complain about a cold start problem in the first place. And since you said
I just drove the car. drives fine, rips hard as s*** but then randomly around like 2k it'll go popopopopopop then go.
tells me your car is just fine :tisk: and your cold start solenoid is just fine too :lolling: good luck with that :laugh: OH YEAH, DON'T COMPLAIN ABOUT THE CA18DET IS PISSING YOU OFF BECAUSE IT SOUNDS LIKE YOU'RE PISSING-OFF THE CA18DET :gapteeth:

nickmerrone
Posts: 109
Joined: Fri Feb 06, 2009 2:47 pm
Car: s13 hatch
Location: Philly, Pa
Contact:

Post

I wasnt being smart...I was saying I wasnt sure what you where talking about then i said If you think its the idle air control that your talking about im kinda sure its not that..

Also. turns out the problem is around 1800rpm. Usually when im driving it normal like city driving around town or whatever I shift then go to get back on the throttle it goes popopopop..

Again I apologize if you took that the wrong way..You didnt have to be a douchebag since you misunderstood me..

User avatar
themadscientist
Posts: 26254
Joined: Tue Nov 12, 2002 3:30 pm
Car: R32 GTR, DR30 RS Turbo, BRZ, Lunchbox, NSR50 Sportster 883 Iron
Location: Staring down at you with disdain from the spooky mountaintop castle.

Post

When is an apology, NOT an apology?
nickmerrone wrote:Again I apologize if you took that the wrong way..You didnt have to be a douchebag since you misunderstood me..
Way to encourage others to help you. :rolleyes:

nickmerrone
Posts: 109
Joined: Fri Feb 06, 2009 2:47 pm
Car: s13 hatch
Location: Philly, Pa
Contact:

Post

haha. Well I didnt mean that like that either Lol I have a terrible way with words i just wanna fix my s***

User avatar
ganma_ca
Posts: 487
Joined: Tue Dec 16, 2008 1:19 am
Car: 240sxxx
1CA +1SR = 3.8L

Post

Ok 4 words: Respect your elders Advice. Do not Piss off Dee, he is pretty much your life blood here unless you want to sell your CA as a molten paper weight. Dude is pretty much the 1st and foremost on CA's(no disrespect to the others on here that know their ca's aka TMS/Float etc). So past the lecture, it's a problem some of us are plagued by, when going around a corner and down shifting it's like you hit fuel cut and pop pop pop..... Man it could be soooo many things. Old injectors, faulty maf, ignitor, and so on. The fact of the matter is the CA is using 20+ year old technology and most of it has never been replaced. Maybe if you fall into Dee's good graces again you could beg him to teach you about going stand alone and doing without half the junk that causes the CA to have these little quirks. Or just replace all the $!%# on your CA with brand new parts like I'm doing which I know is #$@%^ more expensive then going standalone. You have to understand you can't just throw in a 20+ year old engine and have it work magic. Much less beating the $h*t out of it and expecting it to hold up. The CA isn't for everyone. Maybe you should have gone SR? :bigthumb: JK but listen to Dee's advise he won't steer you wrong and hopefully you want to invest the time and money into the CA to have something cool.

nickmerrone
Posts: 109
Joined: Fri Feb 06, 2009 2:47 pm
Car: s13 hatch
Location: Philly, Pa
Contact:

Post

I had an sr20, kat, ka, etc. I like this the most. I know he is like the CA god just from reading on here. Didn't intend to piss someone off. I'm just trying to drive my damn car, know what i mean? It was running fine for 4 weeks then it started doing this...Starting to think its cause The manifold is coming off the turbo again.. I've replaced almost every part except tps, and iacv.. What I did do is: Ignitor, ECu, orings on injectors, Fuel pump, filter, plugs, coil pack harness, added grounds, put the stock intercooler piping back on because i was running no BOV before. and now i have whatever came with my swap back on. i believe its an RB20 bov.

And yeah its more of a when you downshift and go to get back on it it goes popopopopopop. Or if you let off the gas for a few..then go to get back on..Pulling turbo off tommorow and welding it to the manifold, just because Im tired of putting new gaskets on..I bought those clips from nissan but I guess i put them on wrong because they fell off too.

User avatar
float_6969
Moderator
Posts: 17366
Joined: Mon Aug 26, 2002 1:55 pm
Car: CA18DET swapped 1995 Nissan 240sx (too many mods to list)
2015 SV Leaf w/QC & Bose (daily)
Location: Topeka, Kansas
Contact:

Post

If you've got something loose on the exhaust side, pre-turbo, it can make it run funny. I wouldn't weld the turbo onto the manifold though. The chances of you welding cast iron and not having it crack are slim-to-none. Those clips from Nissan work great if you use them correctly.

nickmerrone
Posts: 109
Joined: Fri Feb 06, 2009 2:47 pm
Car: s13 hatch
Location: Philly, Pa
Contact:

Post

float_6969 wrote:If you've got something loose on the exhaust side, pre-turbo, it can make it run funny. I wouldn't weld the turbo onto the manifold though. The chances of you welding cast iron and not having it crack are slim-to-none. Those clips from Nissan work great if you use them correctly.
Yeah i thought about it. Im just going to tack the nuts and the tops of the studs. I've heard of people having good luck with that..Input?

User avatar
themadscientist
Posts: 26254
Joined: Tue Nov 12, 2002 3:30 pm
Car: R32 GTR, DR30 RS Turbo, BRZ, Lunchbox, NSR50 Sportster 883 Iron
Location: Staring down at you with disdain from the spooky mountaintop castle.

Post

The tabs work if you use them right. Blowing out gaskets could be a sign of severe heat, not just loose nuts. Are you leaning out?

Anu
Posts: 52
Joined: Fri Dec 19, 2008 1:39 pm
Car: Nissan 200SX s13

Post

Why not use loctite or something similar, or use locking nuts? What f you weld the nuts /studs and ever need to remove the turbo?

User avatar
themadscientist
Posts: 26254
Joined: Tue Nov 12, 2002 3:30 pm
Car: R32 GTR, DR30 RS Turbo, BRZ, Lunchbox, NSR50 Sportster 883 Iron
Location: Staring down at you with disdain from the spooky mountaintop castle.

Post

I don't think loctite can handle that amount of heat.

A stud with a nut welded to it is called a bolt.

nickmerrone
Posts: 109
Joined: Fri Feb 06, 2009 2:47 pm
Car: s13 hatch
Location: Philly, Pa
Contact:

Post

themadscientist wrote:The tabs work if you use them right. Blowing out gaskets could be a sign of severe heat, not just loose nuts. Are you leaning out?
The nuts where actually falling off..Ended up just tack welding the nuts. Runs pretty good. Still runs like poopy until warmed up..Gonna get it tuned within the next week or so. Cause she made 190whp on 8lbs so im gonna put it to ten get it tuned for that. so it should be a little funner, also if anything else is wrong fix that before going with more boost. Im not really one for turning up the boost..


Return to “CA18DE / CA18DET Forum”