CA18DET.net ... anyone else see this? new?

[DALAZ_68]

i just ran into this today searching for the CA's powerband (still dont know...lol ) and i stumbled upon this page

CA18det.net

last i herd it was CA18det.org that when down the crapper... and i notice this site says copyright 2010...so...yeah....anyone...?

[float_6969]

Weird. It almost looks like it's automatically generated or something. That info stuff was pulled straight from wakopedia.

[float_6969]

What you you mean specifically power band? If you mean the point from where the stock exhaust mani and turbo is spooled up, to where power falls off, I'd say from 2500-6500. An SR T25 w/ stock turbo mani changes that to 2750-7000. An S15 SR T28 w/stock turbo mani changes it to 3K-?. You'll hit redline at 7.5K and it's still pulling hard. If I had my guess some stage 1 cams (tomei PONcams, or something in the 256 IN/EX, or the CA16 inlet cam) and increased rev-limit should let you make good power with that turbo to 8K. IDK if the rod bolts will hold together at those revs though (The UK guys swear the stock CA rod bolts stretch at high revs). The rest of the motor should be fine.

This is assuming you've made all of the appropriate intake, exhaust, and fueling changes needed to run these turbo's.

[blownhemi]

Looks very much like those fillers that they put up for domain names bought out of pure speculation. The wakopedia citation is a surprising addition, though...

[DALAZ_68]

What you you mean specifically power band? If you mean the point from where the stock exhaust mani and turbo is spooled up, to where power falls off, I'd say from 2500-6500. An SR T25 w/ stock turbo mani changes that to 2750-7000. An S15 SR T28 w/stock turbo mani changes it to 3K-?. You'll hit redline at 7.5K and it's still pulling hard. If I had my guess some stage 1 cams (tomei PONcams, or something in the 256 IN/EX, or the CA16 inlet cam) and increased rev-limit should let you make good power with that turbo to 8K. IDK if the rod bolts will hold together at those revs though (The UK guys swear the stock CA rod bolts stretch at high revs). The rest of the motor should be fine.

This is assuming you've made all of the appropriate intake, exhaust, and fueling changes needed to run these turbo's.

powerband as in, were the turbo starts being fully boosted... pretty much i need to know were to keep the revs during a drift...

the motor itself is stock...minus the FMIC, and the walboro pump...

so redline currently is 7500 right?

the only thing this motor is gonna recieve down the road is a fresh oil pump, bearing, gaskets and hoses...

which BTW...anyone have any thoughts on these...?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...ories

and to go alone with these

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...ories

any thoughts appreciated

i wouldnt mind goign with Autozone normal stock, but, my biggest fear is an elbow that wont curve right and bind, cause all kinds of hell...

[Ca_Silvia]

I wouldn't spend money on fancy heater hoses, the rad hoses, ya spend the money.

In my experience with CA,SR and the 2871R is you want to keep the revs above 3000 for sure. Anything lower and the lack of torque will just bog down the motor. My sweet spot with the 2871R is right around 5500, tons of room above and below that for corrections. The smaller turbo typically want to be alittle higher (6000rpm) just because they make a little less power at compariable rpms.

Hope that helps, i could go it to more detail but alot of what i said has to do with rear suspension and tire setup, ie how much traction.

[sjbsuperman1425]

when i drift i dont really look at the RPMs..i use my ears to know when im to high in the revs and just lift a little bit when i think its too high. but if i had to guess, probably 5-6k RPMs w/ CA turbo and tubular manifold.

[DALAZ_68]

I wouldn't spend money on fancy heater hoses, the rad hoses, ya spend the money.

In my experience with CA,SR and the 2871R is you want to keep the revs above 3000 for sure. Anything lower and the lack of torque will just bog down the motor. My sweet spot with the 2871R is right around 5500, tons of room above and below that for corrections. The smaller turbo typically want to be alittle higher (6000rpm) just because they make a little less power at compariable rpms.

Hope that helps, i could go it to more detail but alot of what i said has to do with rear suspension and tire setup, ie how much traction.

in no way am i carring about the the fancyness of it, what i do care about is quality and that its new, compared to what? 20+ year old hoses ?

im keeping the heater because we have night events and sometimes it gets a little nippy for comfort...though i am deleting everything A/C related under the dash...

[Ca_Silvia]

What i meant was why pay extra for that kit when you can buy 1/4, 3/8, 1/2 hose anywhere.

CA18DET rad hoses are a different story, you can't exactly find those everywhere.

[DALAZ_68]

What i meant was why pay extra for that kit when you can buy 1/4, 3/8, 1/2 hose anywhere.

CA18DET rad hoses are a different story, you can't exactly find those everywhere.

as stated be4, ive bought be4 just normal straight hose, problem arises when its short hoses with wierd bends, they tend to bind, causing restrictions...

i rather have something that has the preformed bends, and is quality, to avoid situations like the ones ive had prior...

well i can use KA DOHC rad hoses anyday...its just some, dont have enough of a bend, some do...its a gamble since there universal parts...

once again, id just like to have something thats preform for the motor to avoid BS complications...