i recently put back together by datsun b210, with a mildly built ca18det. before i tore it down, it was running perfect with its t25, three inch exhaust, ram air. i was burning rubber and boosting hard. lol

flash forward. two years later. now its fully painted and looking badass. it took third place at jccs this year in best 70s car.

the engine was rebuilt with stock nissan components except with super tech pistons and arp rod bolts. i also replaced the turbo with a precision turbo, part number 3454. (entry level journal bearing turbo, considerably bigger than the t25.

when i put together the car for the sho, it ran perfectly. idle was perfect, it would rev good with no sputters, but i was careful to not go into boost becuase i was running the stock injectors and it was not tuned for the bigger turbo.

when we got back from the sho, i parked it in my garage and occasionally would drive it around the block. still not hitting the gas pedal hard, for fear of boosting without a tune.

recently, when i was coming back from driving it around the block it started sputtering( like it was running on three cylinders) and smoking real bad.

the smoking problem was that i did not hook up the valve cover to vacuum between the maf and turbo. i hook it up and fixed the smoke problem. but in the process i noticed that it was leaking oil from everywhere. i also took of all the coil packs and noticed that the number two cylinder was not firing. i took the boot off the coil and noticed that the coil tip was burned off.

i bought a new coil and installed it.

now it still wont idle at all and wont rev at all.

from searching the web, i have already checked for vacuum leaks. i took the maff off and with my mouth, blew air into the intake and with me blowing hard and holding my breath, it held 1.5 pounds of boost with the engine off. it also holds, 1.5 inches of vacuum when i suck air in. i also blew cigarette smoke and noticed no smoke anywhere.

any guidance? any ideas?

Anytime the engine isn't running well, pull the codes from the ECU first.

"leaking oil from everywhere"

I would look at that. Check the torque on your head bolts and make sure they did'nt loosen up and allow a cylinder to lose compression.

themadscientist wrote:"leaking oil from everywhere"

I would look at that. Check the torque on your head bolts and make sure they did'nt loosen up and allow a cylinder to lose compression.

all the oil leaks are gone now.

float_6969 wrote:Anytime the engine isn't running well, pull the codes from the ECU first.

code 13. wen i rebuilt the engine, i installed a new nissan temp sensor. also, now it wont start at all. it turns over and it just turns on for a second then dies.

now it doesnt even want to start. i put another CAS on it and still nothing. its as if the problem got progessively worse. and worse. to wehre it does not even want to start now. Maybe a bad ignitor?

also, worth noting, when i rebuilt the engine i also bought new stock injectors. i have read that the ecu sometimes does not recognize the injectors. but, the plugs are wet with fuel. so im thinking that this is not the case.

Where was oil leaking from? You might want to do a compression check.

themadscientist wrote:Where was oil leaking from? You might want to do a compression check.

the oil was leaking from the turbo the exhaust manifold, and it was blowing smoke big time !!! I callled up precision turbo thinking that the turbo was bad, (like everyone else would think) and i told them about my set up. after a long conver sation, the tech jerry, told me that i needed to hook up the crankcase evap system for the exhaust side. which i did not do, till after he told me to do it.

Jerry from precision turbo said, if the crankcase gasses are not getting out fast enough, it could cause the oil to not be able to drain fast enough and back up all the way back to the pistons valves and everything else. \

i hooked up the exhaust valve cover in between the maff and turbo, and bam it the smoking prob was gone.

but i will take your advice and do a compression check.

That sounds really scary. I hope you didn't pump oil up into your cylinders and cause extra pressure on the piston rings. Yikes.

Just to be clear, you don't have a code 13 anymore? If you do, I don't think the ECU will allow the engine to start with that code.

i still have trouble code 13. the car will not start.

so i took out number one spark plug and its wet with fuel. i put the spark plug on the coil while it was still connected and i got no spark, when my son turned it over.

compression numbers?

compression is all good.

even if compression was bad, it would still give spark to the cylinders.

any other ideas>?

Sounds like the water temperature sensor is not providing a signal to the ecu. Code 13 will cause the ECU to go haywire if there's no communication between the two. Check your electrical connections at the ecu and at the sensor's connector as well. In conclusion, the engine is harness is not wired correctly as there's a break in the wiring.

You have to get the code 13 fixed or it's not going to run. We keep telling you that. Until you get that code cleared, you're not going to make any progress.

ok. i will work on getting the code 13 off.

i have removed code 13. it turns out that i had the idle control green sensor plug on the coolant temp sensor which was red. i switched connectors and clear the codes and bam, fired right up. i now have code 55.

i now have a new problem. cylinder number two will not fire. while its idling, i can disconnect the coil number two harness and it will not do anything. it will continue to idle on just three cylinders. I have already replaced it with a new hitachi coil. while its idling, i hav checked and ans saw the two of the wires have positive current. the third wire , closest to the driver side., does not have anything going to it. i have also switched plugs and same thing. any ideas?

i also removed the plug and its wet with fuel, so i know that the injector is working. i also removed and switched the coil and put it on the numnber one cylinder. cylinder two was still not working.

its late in the garage, but i figuered it out.!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

so i took an old coil and old spark plug while the engine was running and noticed that the plug was firing. so i took the plug out and did antother compression test fearing that i had a dead cylinder. even though i had already done a compression test. so i did the compression test and it showed 150. which is excelent. and expected for fresh build with new rings and supertech pistons.

as mentioned earlier, when i took the plug out, it showed that it was wet with fuel. so then i decided to turn the engine over with the plug removed so that the compression would vent into the atmosphere. when i did this, a large plume of fuel came out. i then took the number one spark plug out and noticed that it did not do that same plume as the number two.

note that when the rebuild was done, the injectors were replaced with new units aswell. so i did not expect the injectors to be the problem.

make a long story short, i switched the number two injector with an old injector. and bammmmmm. that worked. it revs perfect and cylinder number two is back on line.

i guess that the injector was dumping too much fuel and flooding out the cylinder. anyway, i fuguered it out.

coolest part of all this is that i did not hav to buy any parts.

Glad you got it sorted out!