ca18det factory flywheel lightening?

Post by **fitch9014** » Sun Oct 15, 2006 5:14 pm

Has anyone heard or maybe have some info on this? In my vast travels through cyberspace I came upon a 'stock' lightened flywheel. As it feels my spec stage 1 clutch is about to eat it, I thought now might be a good time to swap to a lighter flywheel. Short of spending enough cash to pucker the sphincter, is this a viable option? Other than that, it's just under a grand for the toda racing flywheel/clutch combo, so I guess maybe, I don't know, christmas and birthday presents for two years........

Thanks, and mad respect to the ca forums; I love this no torque, buzzy, 30mpg, 8bit processed, 80's engineered marvel of a motor, except for the leaky fuel line and that damn clamp!!! Ask me about that some time! Laters, people!

Post by **float_6969** » Sun Oct 15, 2006 5:17 pm

I tried it on mine with little success. There's just not much area to remove material from safely. JUN makes a lightweight flywheel, but they can be hard to find.

Post by **driftin8ez** » Sun Oct 15, 2006 5:23 pm

The most your going to get off is maybe 5 lbs. It will be more trouble than its worth. I also considered doing it.

Post by **fitch9014** » Mon Oct 16, 2006 2:01 pm

Yeah, I found a cusco one last night $850...That's all I'ma say about that. I think the toda flywheel/clutch combo is one of the best deals I've stumbled across. To bad I'm in school and I'm poor again. Thanks for the inputs.

Post by **bentvalves** » Thu Oct 19, 2006 3:16 am

a machinist and I lopped 4.5 pounds off the backside of mine, and a little on the face where the pressure plate doesnt come into contact with it.

check out SXOC.COM for some pics on how to do it right.

If you do it with a CNC, you can get way more than 5 lbs out.

Dont forget to balance rotating assembly once your done.

Post by **float_6969** » Thu Oct 19, 2006 3:22 am

The problem is that you're weakening the structural integrity of the flywheel, and even if you chop 5lbs off the stock flywheel, you're nowhere near the weight of an aftermarket billet steel or aluminum flywheel.

Post by **fitch9014** » Thu Oct 19, 2006 5:11 am

How do flywheels break with weakend structural integrity? I mean do they explode into flywheel chunks or do they just stop working? As far as the more expensive j-spec units, they seem to be balanced to provide a good mix of drivability and lightness. What I think they mean to say is there is less drop off between gear changes, I was just looking for a solution to how long it takes the stock motor to finally get to 3k and make boost without losing a thumb or, if weakend flywheels explode, a leg or two! Thanks for the inputs.

Post by **bentvalves** » Thu Oct 19, 2006 2:31 pm

5 lbs is better than nothing, especially when talking about rotating weight. If its done right, their should be no need to worry. Any decent machinist will know how to avoid stress risers, and not go overboard.

Post by **float_6969** » Thu Oct 19, 2006 6:53 pm

5lbs is what I had taken off of mine. IIRC that got it down to about 25lbs. He refused to go any farther than that. The removal of material (genrally from the backside if the flywheel) weakens it and can potential cause it to crack. If exposed to extreme enough conditions, it could very well explode. If you're not paying much for the work, then I don't think it hurts, but the difference to me was barely noticeable. Now the 13lb JUN flywheel that I'm currenty running lets the motor rev like a madman. It also drops revs more quickly as well, climing hills takes more throttle, and you will have to shift more quickly to make it smooth.

Post by **fitch9014** » Fri Oct 20, 2006 2:44 am

Yeah, like gran turismo! I think I'll probably do the 5lb removal for right now. Anyone have a good clutch kit to recommend? I'm pretty disappointed with the spec unit . But you gets what you pays for. Thanks, people!

Post by **float_6969** » Fri Oct 20, 2006 3:30 am

I'm running the SPEC as well and it's OK. It doesnt' slip unless I power shift. I just think the pedal feel is too light and the engagement point is in a retarded spot. I've tried mulitple times to adjust it, but when I get it to a somewhat normal spot, it makes it slip.

Unfortunatly, SPEC is the only US manufacturer that I'm aware of that makes a CA specific clutch. Your only other option is to use a clutch set for a KA-E, and remove the dowl pins from the flywheel or drill new holes in the pressure plate.

Post by **bentvalves** » Fri Oct 20, 2006 3:35 am

A single cam KA clutch works with the CA with a little trickery then?

I have a spec stage 4, we will see what it can take.

Post by **float_6969** » Fri Oct 20, 2006 3:37 am

Yes, exactly. I'm I'm running a Stage 3 BTW. As I said before, it ONLY slips when I power shift.

Post by **kapower06** » Fri Oct 20, 2006 4:46 am

Yea any ka clutch will work, just remove the dowel pins and elongate the holes in the ressure plate. Im running a centerforce stage 2 with stainless clutch line, a new master and slave cylinder and have never had it slip. 10k miles multiple races (street and track) never once slipped. including power shifting.

Post by **sideways danny** » Fri Oct 20, 2006 6:51 am

i've had 4.5 kg removed from my flywheel, I generally remove 2kg from the flywheel on any engine I built. I've done it for years and never had a problem

Post by **sideways danny** » Fri Oct 20, 2006 6:55 am

[/QUOTE]

Post by **sideways danny** » Fri Oct 20, 2006 6:57 am

Post by **Ca_laurier** » Fri Oct 20, 2006 7:59 am

just buy the os giken kit

comes with a lightened flywheel. costs like $1700 though

Post by **bentvalves** » Fri Oct 20, 2006 9:00 am

like I said sxoc.com to see it done right.

thats well over 5 lbs removed.

Is that your flywheel danny, was it done with CNC?
Modified by ks13 at 7:46 PM 10/20/2006

Post by **fitch9014** » Sat Oct 21, 2006 11:03 am

Do you think if I took that photo to a machine shop for reference that they could duplicate it? And when you say ka is that e and de clutches and pressure plates? I personally think the spec stage 1 sucks, it has never seemed like it was adjusted right, it slips, and the pedal feels mushy despite a fully rebuilt hydraulic system...you get what you pay for.

Post by **eds13** » Sat Oct 21, 2006 7:29 pm

my stock clutch will slip when i power shift now, i guess i'll try putting in the xtd stage 3 i bought off of ebay when i wasn't thinking i'll let ya'll know how it works

Post by **Bwana** » Sat Oct 21, 2006 7:53 pm

Guys, what's your recommended clutch for +/- 300 hp? I just turned mine up to 19psi and it's started slipping. I'm running one of Max's clutchs (which was great at 12-15 psi) but isn'd doing the job now. Suggestions?

Post by **Ca_laurier** » Sat Oct 21, 2006 8:36 pm

https://www.rhdjapan.com/shop/...=1093

stay away from spec clutches

if you want something a bit less hardcore (os gikens are crazy, drove a pulsar gti-r with one, and DAMN) go with a good ka24de one

Post by **sideways danny** » Sun Oct 22, 2006 7:16 am

the first pics i posted are of my own flywheel, the second pic is of the back of another flywheel for an engine I built but the same has been done to the rear of mine

ca18det factory flywheel lightening?

ca18det factory flywheel lightening?

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