CA18DET dead headgasket

[mikesim]

ok, i have a CA18DET with about 94,000kms on it and my headgasket went. i can't speculate why (maybe the fact it was running 11 psi, maybe the fact the rad has NEVER been flushed, its all rusty inside), but that leaves me in a difficult position.

can a nissan tech fix a CA18DET? how close are they to our USDM CA's? mechanically? torque specs? timing? assembly/disassembly?

is there a service manual i can download?

i really don't have the time or the space to do this in my back yard (no fence, no garage). could this be done in a weekend? i don't think i will have the adequate tools too. (ie some impact tools for removing the turbo manifold) what additional/special tools would i need? timing gun i guess?

thanks for any info guys.

[mikesim]

i found the user manual. not very helpful....

[F3600]

do it yourself ! not that hard im pretty sure ... just time consuming. It should take a weekend and maybe one day if you start early.

A nissan tech can do the job, im pretty sure but it will be pricey

you need a goot socket kit in MMa torque wrench a timing gun

i think thats all ..

[redamnavit]

My manifold came off with normal ratchets; I didn't even need a breaker bar.

[Notchbackca]

if you have never flushed your cooling system, (ESSPECIALLY if you used death-cool) your entire cooling system needs to be overhauled, do not skimp here, if your cooling system fails, it will fail at high RPM when waterpressure is highest and your engine will be toast

[mikesim]

ok. thanks guys.

i am trying to overhaul the whole thing. i want an aluminum rad and new water pump to go on at the same time. the hoses all look in great condition, no soft spots or cracks, but that water looked so ****ty. i couldn't believe how gross it was actually.

i will have to look at the waterpump first as this is the origin of the leak. i just can't see very well in there because it's obstructed by the intake manifold.

By the way, what happened to the Cross over parts thread? it used to be a sticky.

[Notchbackca]

oh, and there are alot of steel tubes in your cooling system, esspecially under your intake manifold, and they all need to be replaced(by heater hose) if you don't route the coolant throught the upper manifold it will stay cooler and your cooling system will be way simpler

[mikesim]

i can reroute it? can you explain how?

also, what is the correct part number for the low temp thermostats? i see three different types in the .pdf manual, 190F (88C), 180F(82C), and 170F(76.5C). now i read there's a 160F(65C), but where do i get that and what is it from?

[s13conv]

also, what is the correct part number for the low temp thermostats? i see three different types in the .pdf manual, 190F (88C), 180F(82C), and 170F(76.5C). now i read there's a 160F(65C), but where do i get that and what is it from?

Keep in mind that the lower the temp on the thermostat, the less heat you will have. Also, I don't know if that's the case with this motor but in some cars if the water temp is too cold the ECU will always think that the motor is cold and not use the proper timing tables.

[mikesim]

Keep in mind that the lower the temp on the thermostat, the less heat you will have. Also, I don't know if that's the case with this motor but in some cars if the water temp is too cold the ECU will always think that the motor is cold and not use the proper timing tables.

ideally cylinder temperature should be 180F-185F. getting it to consistantly run that is another thing. when boosting here near sea level @ 80% humidity or more, the car has been overheating constantly. I need to fix this.

anyone know the separate thermostat part #'s?

[Notchbackca]

I have a twin core radiator out of an automatic, works wonders, once you strip down your engine it should become readilly apparent where you need to route everything(only a handfull of passeges) and depending on wether you have a air-oil cooler or a water-oil cooler, or no cooler at all that could change things