CA18DE for $600 (incomplete though)*please read*

Discuss topics related to the CA18DE and CA18DET series engines.
wa-chiss
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O.K. I went to EOPerformance today to check out the CA18de that he said he had. I'ts been sitting sence July and is not totally complete. He also gave me some "specs" that I thought were different from what everyone has been telling me. He has the motor, 5 speed transmission, ecu, harness (which he said the injector resisors wires are cut), and ignitor. He also gave me a list of things missing. The flywheel, power steering pump, injector box (i think thats the resistors?), and maybe the starter. He told me the comp. ratio was 9:1 not 9.5:1 like I thought. He said the motor is straight from japan so I know it has the girdle, and all that good stuff the USDM DE doesn't have. So, what do you think? Good deal or not. $600 for everything they got.


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float_6969
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The flywheel and starter shouldn't be too hard as you can get an SR flywheel and use a Hitachi gear-reduction, nose-less starter from an S12 200sx with a CA18E(T). That will give you multiple clutch options as well.

The power steering pump will be a little bit hard as there isn't any USDM equivalent PS Pump that I'm aware of.

If indeed the injector box is the resistor pack, then you can get one from a DSM out of the junkyard pretty easily, or if you can find one out of a Pulsar, that will work as well.

The compression ratio is either 8.5:1 or 9.5:1, AFAIK, there wasn't ever a 9:1 compression ratio CA. If it is 9.5:1 you'll need new pistons, if it's 8.5:1 you've got a turbo motor and you're fine. The only way to tell is to pull the head off and look at the pistons.

Regardless, I still say it's a good deal. I'd buy it if I was in your position.

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tyrannix
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buy it, forged pistons and the machine work to rebuild and youll be out cheaper than most cats in the US buying a CA (and you can get a standalone in there too and still be saving money)

wa-chiss
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float_6969 wrote: AFAIKRegardless, I still say it's a good deal. I'd buy it if I was in your position.
AFAIK? What does that mean again? I'm terrible with annograms. Anywho, It seems this is a good deal. I believe he said the resistor pack is the injector box (90% sure).
tyrannix wrote:buy it, forged pistons and the machine work to rebuild and youll be out cheaper than most cats in the US buying a CA (and you can get a standalone in there too and still be saving money)
well, all I should need to get done is honing right? We have a parts washer and a steem washer at school, I have/can get tools, and I have the know how for a rebuild. So If nothing is warped, I shouldn't need machine work. Although, it would be nice to go all out with this motor but I'm not a wealthy man right now. My motor crapped out on me so I need a new motor but the SR is too much for me and the CA was an excelent alternative.

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float_6969
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AFAIK = As Far As I Know

Plan on having the block deck and head mating surfaces milled. The head is often slightly warped.

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tyrannix
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wa-chiss wrote: AFAIK? What does that mean again? I'm terrible with annograms. Anywho, It seems this is a good deal. I believe he said the resistor pack is the injector box (90% sure).

well, all I should need to get done is honing right? We have a parts washer and a steem washer at school, I have/can get tools, and I have the know how for a rebuild. So If nothing is warped, I shouldn't need machine work. Although, it would be nice to go all out with this motor but I'm not a wealthy man right now. My motor crapped out on me so I need a new motor but the SR is too much for me and the CA was an excelent alternative.
float_6969 wrote:AFAIK = As Far As I Know

Plan on having the block deck and head mating surfaces milled. The head is often slightly warped.
washing/cleaning everything yourself, then block and head decked and rotating assembly balanced == win (with new bearings and rings of course)

also checking all your bores would be good (maybe need to go .5 or 1mm over if one of your cylinders is huge for some reason..... one of my blocks has that problem, it will get the 84mm tomei pistons tho so its all good)

but big ups for forged pistons, and ARP studs at least, then youll be gravy on the bottom end later on when you get more cash, and wont need to pull it

CJ


wa-chiss
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afaik, damn I knew that one. . Thanks. I just need to find a good machinest round here. I can't wait to start tearing into this motor. Also, who sells MLS headgaskets? Or do you think I will need it? I plan on installing ARP head studs, T25 or 28 whichever will get me to 250HP safely, lower comp. pistons, and all the little tid-bits for a rebuild.

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float_6969
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Cometic has a HG for the CA, but you have to get the block and head resurfaced. People have had problems with them sealing if they didn't do both.

That is more of a MLS gasket thing, than a Cometic thing though....

ca18datsun510
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i have a n/a block in my car. oil feed is already tapped, but plugged. you are gonna need to put a bung on the oil pan for return though. everything else has been the same so far. cept pistons of course.

wa-chiss
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Ahhh, what is the stock HG good 'till? I don't want to chance it. I didn't even think about the oil lines 'till now. Thanks.

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float_6969
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I would say at least 300hp.

wa-chiss
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Oh $H!T sun! I think I'll just get a stock gasket set. Could I use a FWD CA gasket set?

P.S. Let me know if all these questions are getting irratating.

wa-chiss
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bump

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float_6969
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I've put 270RWHP down on the stock Pulsar HG w/o a problem. Mine is leaking oil on the exhaust side near the 4th cylnder, but it's done this since I put the motor together and it doesn't have anything to do with the gasket.

Get a stocker and roll on it.

wa-chiss
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NIce, but what gasket set should I use?And from what year? I want to get all the needed things first. That way I'm not running back and forth to the parts store. Thanks. 270RWHP is around 300HP Right? Thats awsome. My dad has a Titan with that much HP and the truck is fast. I can only amagine that much power in a 2000lbs. car.

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float_6969
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87-89 Nissan Pulsar NX SE DOHC

wa-chiss
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Thanks. Thats all for now.

LongGrain
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i'd buy it, altho i got my CA18DE for 300 with only 25k miles, and a complete swap. its USDM tho, but im not complaining cuz when i tore it down it had a girdle and all that good stuff that the USDM motors arent sposta have, so maybe it was JDM...idk

and you can go on ebay and search "CA18DE gasket" and theres a store that has complete gasket sets for $56


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