CA18 Timing helps

[HotSauceVersion]

Hey guy I need help with adjusting my timing on the CA. It seems very sluggish and bogs. I never adjust timing on engines with CAS before, is there a guide? Thx.

[sjbsuperman1425]

-remove coilpack from cylinder 1-install spark plug wire on spark plug and attach to coilpack using electrical tape-clip timing light clamp to spark plug wire-run engine and point light at crank-ajdust CAS until it reads 15* BTDC

I believe this is the procedure, but am NOT 100% sure.. its in the FSM which is in the stickies.

[float_6969]

Yea, that doesn't really work. You have to follow the outline in the FSM. If you don't, the ECU doesn't default to the stock timing values and you're not really setting the timing to what you think you are.

Basically, unless you follow the procedure in the FSM, the ECU modulates the timing at idle to maintain a good even idle. So if the ECU is trying to run the motor at 13 deg, and you set it to 15, you just advanced the entire timing map 2 deg. Does that make sense? And it can go both ways, I just gave an example.

[zero_gripS13]

the fsm says to do exactly what he said... hook spark plug wire to coil and plug using clamp point light adjust.. the rest is for instpecting maf and other devices..

unless im missing something can u describe this procedure?

[float_6969]

You're right. i was thinking of the KA-DE.

[zero_gripS13]

ok yea wasnt a cut or anyhting i wanted to know for the sake of knowledge, with my ka you have to like rev @ 2k for 2 mins disconnect tps and all this bull s*** lol.

[splintercell]

im going to check my timing this week as well. because i dont think its right since i pulled everything off for powdercoating. i thought i marked it car backfires on upshift and idles higher... i think its off a little.

do you adjust cas while engine is running? sorry first time checking timing

[biosehnsucht]

depending on your luck you may be able to use the loop at the back of the coilpack harness. I find this generally works for me fine, but only after I fixed various other problems that made me miss alot can be tough to get the clamp on the loop though, and if the clamp is too big it just won't fit.

[splintercell]

i clamped timing light on back loop and lo & behold my timing was over 20 btdc...prob around 25 wtf

i had a feeling i didnt mark CAS very accurate when i took everything off for powdercoating. car has been starting fine and idling fine...just a little high. i went ahead and got it set back too 15 and idle dropped to around 1050-1100 without iacv hooked up. the idle adjusting screw is practically closed.

car runs richer now, but fuel pressure is accurate...ecu throws no codes/ all new sensors installed a couple months ago. i might need to put new plugs in again...running that advanced prob burnt them up...idk

any solutions lol

[progman]

[progman]

splinter,

I would do a boost leak test if i were you. I don't understand why your idle is so high.. but you did say it was running rich. that makes me think that there is not a boost leak... something is up.

[splintercell]

my vacuum @ idle is around 20-21 on gauge. my ecu is also reflashed by Emance for my dsm 450cc injectors & z32 maf. i might unhook battery tomorrow and see if ecu resets it self now that i fixed timing. my plugs are new as well...less than 150miles on them since i yanked cas off. i prob phucted them up

other than the car idles awesome and sounds great like it always has...everything else checked out

[splintercell]

ok so i unhooked battery today to reset ecu since i set timing back last night to appropriate 15btdc. i turned key over to on position and checked codes...read 55. i went ahead and started engine and checked codes with engine running and got code 34 wtf...knock sensor. i took it out for a spin and sure enough i have less power than i had before when it was over 10 degrees advanced

am i supposed to check timing with tps unplugged too. i didnt do that and i just read it somewhere...maybe timing is off again.

maybe checking timing on back loop isnt that accurate either. im going to find a plug wire and check off plug 1

[splintercell]

its weird how knock sensor all of a sudden went bad, but it is 20yrs old. clamping on loop def doesnt give you a proper reading for timing. i unplugged tps do redo idle and it was fluctuating bad and my damn car will not idle down too 900rpms. everything is working and gauges are all on point...no leaks...idle screw is all the way closed... iacv is unplugged.

how can i get an accurate reading on timing if the rpms will not fall past 1050-1100 @ idle. the screw on ecu doesnt do a damn thing either.

will rb20 knock sensor work?

[splintercell]

ok a friend is bringing me 2 rb20 knock sensors this weekend and im going to install one than check timing again.

now i know why timing is messed up, because its throwing knock sensor code which was advancing the timing 10 degrees. so my timing was str8 from the get go and i set it back 10 degrees so technically im @ 5 on CAS lol wtf. smells like gasoline is just pouring out exhaust.

i unplugged tps to do timing as well and that made it worse, but it doesnt say anything in FSM about unplugging tps. ive read some posts on here with members saying to do this.

i should have it str8 by sunday and im redoing everything off cylinder 1 and not loop on back of motor

[biosehnsucht]

high idle could also be a stuck open cold start air regulator (thing under the TB)

it has a wax thing that heats up from the 12V going through it and closes off the valve inside, this is our super advanced 80's cold start technology

[splintercell]

high idle could also be a stuck open cold start air regulator (thing under the TB)

it has a wax thing that heats up from the 12V going through it and closes off the valve inside, this is our super advanced 80's cold start technology

i hope thats not it, because its brand new. im going to mess with tps switch tomorrow as well and see if that changes if i move it around.

[splintercell]

well i went and picked up some rb20 knock sensors last night from an old farm here in VA. its amazing who has barns full of old japanese motors lol

the rb20 has 2 sensors per block.

part #A53-000 JECS

Im going to finally get down to my shop tonight and first check the wiring then i will install new sensor. of course i dont have a long enough metric deep well socket, but 1-5/16 works perfect

[splintercell]

i finally hunted down some shielded wire from Home Depot, but all they had was 18ga 4/wire in a bundle. i just used the white wire and grounded the braided outside wire...no more codes and set the timing correctly. im back up and running

i still dont understand how a wire can just go bad inside the harness oh well new wire and my sensor was still good.