googled this problem, kept finding threads about it that never had the solution. hope you guys can help.

installed fresh wiring harness for wiring specialties. car runs pretty good except that it wont boost over 5 with the MBC, without it, it wouldn"t boost at all, gauge would build pressure and stop at zero. All so when gassing, it revs fine, once around 35ish to 4000 kinda breaks up and wont go over 5, sounds like its rev limiting at 5300.

All help and input appreciated

heres a Vid [youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bhNydilfxzk[/youtube]
thanks guys.

I'd check for an exhaust leak between the head and the turbo. It'll keep exhaust gases from reaching the turbine and keep it from spooling, causing less boost and more lag. If it's bad enough the ECU will pour too much fuel into the motor (when it's expecting boost and not getting it) and cause it to "break up".

As a side note, you won't build much, if any, boost in neutral as there isn't any load on the motor.

me and the guys checked it out today. don't think its an exhaust leak for the most part. maybe vacuum, trying to find a smoke machine to check. any other suggestions?

Something like a glove inside the intercooler pipe blocking the air flow ?

A few things. First off, you can't make boost in neutral. Even with the stock CA T28. Just not enough air flow.

Secondly, do you have a BOV? If so, are you SURE it's adjusted properly? It's hard to tell, but I think I hear a big boost leak.

Lastly would be an exhaust leak or a bad wastegate.

I don't have a bov, and we were thinking boost leak too, but can't tell from where

s13 Jrock wrote:I don't have a bov, and we were thinking boost leak too, but can't tell from where

Find something to plug the intercooler pipe between the throttle and the compressor outlet,
also plug the hose to the air regulator, make a T joint on the vaccume hose with a boost gauge and BOV,
another end of the vaccume hose link to an air gun, apply air pressure and monitor the pressure on the boost gauge,
if the pressure drop, thats mean somewhere is leaking.
( These videos are taken for my customer, pleaase don't mind that I'm speaking my mother language)
[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LJXBtZhFPfE[/youtube]

If no leaking, the pressure will not drop.

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OqpJITTokIA[/youtube]

make sure all clamps on the pipes are tight... if you're using crappy clamps, replace them with good ones
you can check for leaks with soapy water or brake cleaner (which should change the engine idle momentarily)

TheMAN wrote:make sure all clamps on the pipes are tight... if you're using crappy clamps, replace them with good ones
you can check for leaks with soapy water or brake cleaner (which should change the engine idle momentarily)

i think their good clamps. their PBM ones and i havent heard anything bad about them that is. there all tight too. i will try both of these things.

thanks for the help

louiswun wrote:

s13 Jrock wrote:I don't have a bov, and we were thinking boost leak too, but can't tell from where

Find something to plug the intercooler pipe between the throttle and the compressor outlet,
also plug the hose to the air regulator, make a T joint on the vaccume hose with a boost gauge and BOV,
another end of the vaccume hose link to an air gun, apply air pressure and monitor the pressure on the boost gauge,
if the pressure drop, thats mean somewhere is leaking.
( These videos are taken for my customer, pleaase don't mind that I'm speaking my mother language)
[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LJXBtZhFPfE[/youtube]

If no leaking, the pressure will not drop.

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OqpJITTokIA[/youtube]

you used a **** load of glue on that BOV and flange! you must of gotten pretty high!

Just to double check. Is the vacuum line comming off of the butterfly actuator supposed to be ran to one of the vacuum system hard lines, or is it supposed to be tee'd to something?

s13 Jrock wrote:Just to double check. Is the vacuum line comming off of the butterfly actuator supposed to be ran to one of the vacuum system hard lines, or is it supposed to be tee'd to something?

Check here, the vacuum line ran to a vacuum tank, the vaccume should be control by a solenoid by ECU.
http://www.scimitarss1.com/index.php/su ... -operation

TheMAN wrote:you used a **** load of glue on that BOV and flange! you must of gotten pretty high!

That leaky BOV (not just the flange) was replaced by a tight seal BOV.
http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid= ... 988&type=3
http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid= ... 988&type=3
[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SXZAKV8SFfk[/youtube]

Good welding work! I sent you some questions on FB many weeks ago. Can you please reply? Thanks!

*UPDATE* fixed the vac lines. all ran properly. (proper as in with out the vacuum tank, but all to the manifold) revs up to 5 now with out hesitation. but noticed white smoke coming from turbo area.(around elbow and turbo housing) also think i heard rattling coming from turbo when trying to boost coming down the street. not completely sure if its from that area, but because of the smoke i think its that. boosted up to 6 this time. What do you guys think?

Engine to exhaust manifold leak, manifold to turbo leak, turbo to elbow leak, or turbo about to grenade, those are my guesses.

TheMAN wrote:Good welding work! I sent you some questions on FB many weeks ago. Can you please reply? Thanks!

Send to me ?
I didn't see it, could you resend ?

since it is white smoke coming from turbo. i think it has a leaking coolant line. took a look at the the block side of the turbo where the coolant port is and looked kinda damp and the coolant hardline that runs from the back of the motor but only on that corner where it drops down to the turbo was damp also. but it had black liquid like oil, but it didnt smell like oil, and burning oil would produce blue smoke right? also would the turbo not spoiling up all the way cause the motor to not want to rev over 5300 and sound kind of like it's redlining. just trying to figure out if its a turbo issue or a motor issue.

Borrow a friends good t25 and install it, see if it solves your problem.

Sounds like some issues not only with the turbo, but the install as well. Take your time and correct the issues that are visible before you mess-up something that can be more costly. No boot-legging stuff just to feel how the car/engine runs, do it the right way (Take your time).

mbmbmb23 wrote:Borrow a friends good t25 and install it, see if it solves your problem.

yeah trying to. worst come to worse ill buy my friends and rebuild it.

boost_boy wrote:Sounds like some issues not only with the turbo, but the install as well. Take your time and correct the issues that are visible before you mess-up something that can be more costly. No boot-legging stuff just to feel how the car/engine runs, do it the right way (Take your time).

i will. the last thing i want to to do is make it worse. thanks for all your guys help.

UPDATE* so we reset the timing this morning ad the car ran perfectly fine so. that was the issue, but now after i figured out the timing problem. i put the car in the garage, went to school in a different car and then motor is making this clucking noise. we think its air in the lifters . because when you crank it you can here a hissing noise. is there a way to release air out of the lifters? heres a vid.[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7zUlyR7a5AI[/youtube]
Compared it to other videos we dont think its rod knock or spun bearing because they dont sound the same. but any thoughts and help greatly appreciated. Like i said it Ran Perfectly Fine This Morning, like Beautifully. i honestly dont know what could've went wrong within the hour ina half of it sitting in my garage doing nothing.
Thanks Guys

Does it not have an exhaust on it? That's insanely loud. I'm also hearing a hissing sound like big leak somewhere. I also think I hear rod knock, but I'm not sure. I also think I heard a failing timing belt pulley. Maybe it jumped time again? Reset the motor to TDC and see if your timing marks still line up.

float_6969 wrote:Does it not have an exhaust on it? That's insanely loud. I'm also hearing a hissing sound like big leak somewhere. I also think I hear rod knock, but I'm not sure. I also think I heard a failing <a class="vglnk" title="Link added by VigLink" rel="nofollow" href="http://shop.ebay.com/i.html?_nkw=timing ... pan>timing </span><span>belt</span></a> pulley. Maybe it jumped time again? Reset the motor to TDC and see if your timing marks still line up.

it has the exhaust on. Didn't have that hissing before this problem, not that I heard at least. I'm hoping not rod knock do you think theirs air in the lifters for some reason? &we checked the timing belt and its lined up and the marks all meet there respective areas at tdc. Took the valve covers and when you rotate it you can hear air exiting. Not sure it supposed to do that or not, and when I rotate the crank pulley I can feel a clunk kind or travel through the ratchet, is that normal? Just thought it was the movement of the crank going through it.

My lifters made noise after I put my engine together and went about a mile, even after I manually bled each one just by squeezing them while submerged in oil. Before that drive, the engine had been completely apart for about a year or more. I put some Marvel Mystery Oil in and shortly after, they stopped making noise. Dunno if it was the Mystery oil that did the trick or just them bleeding out on their own.

But what I'm hearing in the video doesn't sound anything like my lifters did. Mine didn't make any sort of hissing air sound, just a roaring rattle.

Hell, when my engine spun every single bearing (rods AND mains) it didn't sound that violent. I could only get it to knock by revving it up, and it would only knock sometimes. Are you sure your engine wasn't making that knocking sound before you set the timing? The sound I'm talking about is right at 00:18 seconds in your video, really noticeable right as you rev it.

cbh148 wrote:My lifters made noise after I put my engine together and went about a mile, even after I manually bled each one just by squeezing them while submerged in oil. Before that drive, the engine had been completely apart for about a year or more. I put some Marvel Mystery Oil in and shortly after, they stopped making noise. Dunno if it was the Mystery oil that did the trick or just them bleeding out on their own.

But what I'm hearing in the video doesn't sound anything like my lifters did. Mine didn't make any sort of hissing air sound, just a roaring rattle.

Hell, when my engine spun every single bearing (rods AND mains) it didn't sound that violent. I could only get it to knock by revving it up, and it would only knock sometimes. Are you sure your engine wasn't making that knocking sound before you set the timing? The sound I'm talking about is right at 00:18 seconds in your video, really noticeable right as you rev it.

I'm positive. Motor never ever sounded like this before

Coolant temp sensor came up as code 13. Even though I just changed that sensor 2 weeks ago. Just wondering if that would make the motor sou.d like that.

louiswun wrote:

TheMAN wrote:Good welding work! I sent you some questions on FB many weeks ago. Can you please reply? Thanks!

Send to me ?
I didn't see it, could you resend ?

resent

s13 Jrock wrote:Coolant temp sensor came up as code 13. Even though I just changed that sensor 2 weeks ago. Just wondering if that would make the motor sou.d like that.

From my understanding, if the coolant temp sensor has been unplugged at any time while the key was on during the last 200 starts, then you'll still have the code. The temp sensor could be bad, but I doubt that's your problem.

Kinda dumb question, but can you tell where that hissing sound is coming from? Or is that just something that the video is making it seem like it's doing?

cbh148 wrote:

s13 Jrock wrote:Coolant temp sensor came up as code 13. Even though I just changed that sensor 2 weeks ago. Just wondering if that would make the motor sou.d like that.

From my understanding, if the coolant temp sensor has been unplugged at any time while the key was on during the last 200 starts, then you'll still have the code. The temp sensor could be bad, but I doubt that's your problem.

Kinda dumb question, but can you tell where that hissing sound is coming from? Or is that just something that the video is making it seem like it's doing?

replaced the sensor, didnt change a thing. i think it was my ecu tweakin, due to the fact that i switched it and it went away. should have tried that before i bought the sensor anyway, i couldnt tell where the hissing was coming from, didnt really hear hissing so i think it is the video adding that, but im like 70 to 80% sure its rod knock . and i need my car back asap. so the CA's getting pulled out this week/weekend for a rebuild later(hopefully starting this summer when I get another job) and the Single Cams going back in. I do want to thank All you guys that replied for your help. im looking to get 300-350 whp when done with the CA, any suggestions on what exactly to get done to the motor? thi sis my 1st swap/ 1st time doing something like this. was going to go for a rebuild possibly to oem spec or one step over oem. Appreciate all the Help. Thanks Again