You don't need it. Just make sure the hole in the flywheel lines up with the broken pin and you should be fine. I had to break mine off for my current setup so that I could use an SR flywheel (doesn't have the pin). I had the whole reciprocating assembly balanced as an assembly, so they marked the crank and flywheel for me so I can line them back up together.

Sweet. So I have one final Questio from float or anybody. For the break in. The only new things I have are bearings and piston rings, pistons and rods are being re-used. Rods have been reconditioned with arp hardware, along with clevite bearings and fresh rings from Nissan. from what I've looked up and researched people do it differently and I'm pretty stuck as I how I should handle it I've never had to break in a motor and from what a friend told me, he said I could just let the car idle for 30mins and for the bearings rev the car to about 2grand for about 30secs, but this doesn't sound to concrete to me, so I'm pretty stuck from all the different things I've read and how to break certain parts in for what they'll be used for.. My car will be used for occasional dailying and drifting. But I would really like the CA community option as to how I should do it.

(oil to use is 10w-30) Make sure the car is driveable and it doesn't have any fluid leaks because you want to immediately put load on the engine and it's new parts. If there are any imperfections that are excessive, this will be a good time for them to expose themselves in the form of excessive blow-by or knocking via failed bearings due to poor bearing surface preparation. If the car is driveable, get the car on the road, 1st gear to 5-6k rpm, 2nd gear to 5-6k rpm, 3rd gear to 5-6k rpm and engine brake to slow the car down. If you must use 4th gear, try to get to 4th as fast as you can and let the engine work to build rpm/power and be sure to engine brake/down-shift to slow the car down. After 5 miles or 20 minutes of running, change both the oil and the filter. And repeat the process again at the 50 mile marker. After that, you can chill with the oil changes until at least 500 miles and after about 1200 miles, you can use whatever oil you normally run.

Awesome! Thanks a lot. I appreciate the help

I have used this method after every rebuild;
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

No issues whatsoever and I always have great compression and no oil consumption.

Just a question, did you file the ring end gaps to fit, or did the engine builder?

Sweet. And no I haven't. I can ask the guy who's going to put it together for me.

float_6969 wrote:I have used this method after every rebuild;
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

Just a question, did you file the ring end gaps to fit, or did the engine builder?

What exactly is this process? I have brand new rings and they haven't been installed yet, is this something that needs to be done or is recommended?

You HAVE to file fit rings. They don't come ready to install out of the package. The ring end gap has to be adjusted to suit each cylinder for each ring on each piston.