thanks Foat. BIg Thanks for trying to help me before i even started posting on here. if i did end up doing all the stuff you said i could do, but was not needed, how much more would it cost? or what im shooting for in general, how much am i looking to pay?float_6969 wrote:Sorry to hear it man. That always sucks when that happens. I'm glad to hear you're not giving up on the CA though.
For your HP levels, stock everything is fine. I will warn you that you will probably need to bore it out a little, which will mean new pistons, and since cheap cast pistons aren't available in the US, you'll have to get forged. I would also recommend doing a port match and polish on the head while you have it apart. I've done both of my heads (8 port before the failed oil filter killed it, and the 4 port I have now) myself without any issue. It does make a noticeable difference. The exhaust ports are especially bad. I bought this kit, http://www.summitracing.com/search/Bran ... ting-Kits/ and it was enough for both heads, and I still have a lot of it left over. Same goes for the sub-manifold, and the upper plenum. Stock cams should be fine, although some 256-ish sized cams will wake it up in the top end and you won't loose any bottom end, but certainly not needed. Stock exhaust manifold is fine for that power level, but like the cams, if you had it extrude honed along with the turbine housing, you'll get a little better spool up and better top end flow. Like I said though, you don't NEED them. You can make that power with out them, you'll just have to run more boost to do it.
Well when I rotate the crank by hand you can hear the clunking and feel it in the tatchey. I was told that that was rod knock. Not completely sure. I'm new to motor swaps. Buy we are going to pull it out and take a look. My fronds said to check for rod knock, you pull off the oil pan and you can view the inside from there correct? He also said there should be minimal movement up and down and no movement side to side. Is this true?boost_boy wrote:Hey Man, I was listening to the video of your motor running and it sounds to me like you may possibly have a broken camshaft. I just don't hear the rod knock that you speak of; at least per the sound coming from the video. I hear a mess under those valve covers and could be a few other things too, but I just don't hear the issues from the bottom like you've suggested.
Okay. Well I will keep you guys posted when I get the motor outfloat_6969 wrote:Yes, the cams would be damaged. Depending on where it broke, you might have to remove them to tell they're broken.
so the shop dis-assembled the whole block for me. but they only disassemble, so the next shop i take it to, i should just ask them to check those two things correct? and i shouldn't bother with ARP's , just new gaskets then re assemble correct? just double checking for clarification, would be a shame if i have to take it back out later down the line, that and this is my first time doing stuff like this, still learning. i appreciate the help.float_6969 wrote:Have the shop check the pistons and cylinders for roundness and clearance. If it's OK, have the shop put rings and bearings in it (they'll have to set the gap on the rings and check the clearances on the bearings) and then put new gaskets in it. I wouldn't bother with the ARP head studs for that power level (but they're cheap too).
cool. sounds good. thanksmdb4879 wrote:ARP rod bolts would be nice. They're like $60 for the bolts plus whatever the machine shop wants to charge to check and resize the rods (which isn't even necessary in a lot of cases I hear). The rod bolts are our weak link so I'd go ahead and do that. Everything else is plenty strong OEM. Head studs aren't a necessity for you, but they wouldn't hurt if you have the extra cash laying around.
really? okay good to know. thanks, cause someone said i could reuse mine, but i have no idea so rather be safe then sorry.TheMAN wrote:you need new rings and a hone if the shop pulled the pistons out for you... the matching seal of the piston rings have been ruined when they did this
Nice. okay . just got done pulling the cams out. didnt notice anything out of the ordinary, but then again, dont really know what to look for.. but to me they looked fine. no cracks or big scratches. also where can i find the order for the rods as to where they should go back. mine are still connected to the pistons? and if they were ever to get disconnected from the rods, is their a way to recall which pistons go to their respective cylinders?float_6969 wrote:Stock pistons being reused is dependant on the condition of the cylinders. If they're still round, and just need honed, then yes, you can re-use the stock pistons, Make sure they go back into the cylinders they came out of. The same goes for the rods (although the rods are stamped, so it's hard to mix them up). The machine shop can hot tank the pistons, and it should clean them up. The head and block will need to be checked for flatness, but unless they're out spec, the shouldn't need decked. I clean them up with a scotch brite pad BEFORE I take it to the shop. You don't want that crap all over a freshly tanked motor. I would re-use the head bolts. I think the ARP's are annoying and are overkill for all but the highest HP setups, and even then, it's never been proven that they don't hold. If I still had to stock head bolts, I would switch back. The cam caps are also marked, and you can't put them back on wrong (IIRC they're labeled E1, I1, etc and have an arrow pointing towards the front of the motor)
Engine assembly isn't hard, but it's easy to do wrong. If you've never done it before, I would suggest trying to find a shop that will take care of the assembly for you. I shouldn't cost that much more money for assembly.