CA Vaccum/Wiring Woes - Almost Done!

Discuss topics related to the CA18DE and CA18DET series engines.
Veen
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Car: 1991 Nissan 240SX SE w/HICAS
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Ok, thanks to a bunch of help from this site, the stickied threads, and a few members in particular who have had to listen to me moan and whine and gripe about this swap, I'm ALMOST THERE! The transmission is bolted into place (though the clutch is disconnected, there's no fluid in it, and after bolting the shifter on, it appears the car's shifter is stuck, refusing to come into gear or out of gear, stuck in some limbo that keeps dragging the driveline), the starter fits in place and cranks, all gauges work as far as I can tell, now I just need to get the engine safe to drive to the muffler shop so I can have the downpipe rotated and some pipes for my intercooler done.

Before this will happen, however, I need to get all the vaccum and coolant hoses done. I've got almost all of them thanks to a vaccum diagram provided by biosehn, and aside from a few stragglers that I just haven't plugged in, I've got all but maybe five of those lines done. That's where I need help.

First, where do these two go? It almost looks like there's some unit missing there that they plugged into, but I can't track it down in the FSM or vaccum diagram to see. Where should these go? Also, that little cut hose coming off of the intake manifold seems to not have a home.

The line in the left connects over there to the brake booster vaccum line, correct? That's what I've seen/read so far, but then in some engine bay pictures it looks like that line actually goes to the PCV and some other line goes up to brakes. Also, what's that plug for coming off the manifold over there? I was thinking it might be the MAF wire, since mine might be missing.

Do I even need this stupid spring, or can I just chuck the MAF/Air filter in this hole and hose clamp them down? I see no use for that spring at all, save for making something complicated, unless there's some way it hooks up I'm missing. I'd also like to know what that plug at the bottom center of the picture is. I was thinking that must be the MAF plug, but it's sort of short, and the CA18DET MAF I was sent has a plug almost identical to my KA24DE MAF. I'd follow the wires back and see where they go, but it just shoves deeper into the wiring harness. I also saw no mention of it by wire color on the Heavyboost SR wiring article.

These two look to hold coolant. The thing that's throwing me off is that in my firewall on the USDM passenger's side, there's two yellow plugs that these look to fit on to. However, when I got the engine, they were sitting almost like that, and the cuts oddly enough, seem to match. Do I run these to the holes on the passenger side, or do I reconnect it with itself?

Also, when you did the swap, roughly how many extra plugs did you have in the engine bay? I hooked everything up by the writeup, and I still seem to have like a dozen spare plugs that I have NO CLUE where to route. Was there really that much more stuff in Japan that hooked onto the wiring harness, or did Nissan just decide to hook extra wires and plugs up because they can? If someone could post a picture of a CA18DET MAF, specifically the electrical plug and/or socket, that'd be great too. I just get the sinking feeling that I got a KA24E or DE MAF instead of a CA.


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biosehnsucht
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Veen wrote:
top hose there, you have it pointing wrong way, rotate it first towards the back (axis of rotation being the air regulator its attatched to below) and then you should find you're able to get it on a same sized fitting there that goes into the intake mani. This is for the cold start stuff.

Bottom one goes to the coldpipe, this is the air inlet for the cold start and idle stuff (see the T there? going 'up' in the picture goes to the cold start regulator and going 'left' goes under the intake mani and around to the other side to the idle BS)Quote »[/quote]Yes, the left section you are asking about is the brake booster hose. You can get one from a KA (SOHC anyhow) and cut it to fit w/o problems, or get some generic hose, same.

Your PCV is correctly hooked to the hose running left-right to the valvecover.

The plug you question is for the AC, fast idle control. If you have no AC you can forget about it, but don't take it off unless you can find something to plug it with. Keep in mind it has little parts inside if you do take it off. If its not broken, you might consider taking it off anyways and storing it safely as they almost always are broken, and someone can probably use a good one.

Quote »[/quote]the spring is part of the stock air ducting, looks like the front end of it is cut off, its there to keep it from collapsing under the intense vacuum in front of a boosting turbo. You could trim it down I suppose and try to make that work, possibly couple it to a short straight pipe before going to the MAF.. either that or get another new peice or get a hard peice made up.

Can't tell on that plug, what colors are the wires and what shape is it (i.e. 2x2, 1x4, etc) and in which positions are the wires?

Quote »[/quote]Yeah, you know, in Japan everything is backwards on the inside of the car :P so yes those are heater hoses you just need to ditch the whole back section there and run straight back from the under-intake-manifold pipe and the block exit on the (US) passenger side, straight into the car. Stock KA hoses (at least SOHC ones) will work with some trimming to fit, no problem.

You might have a few extra plugs.. stock boost control crap, the variable intake control crap if you didn't hook it up, if it was an automatic harness the auto dropping resistor and FPR rising solenoid..

Veen
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Car: 1991 Nissan 240SX SE w/HICAS
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Thanks. I'll be reversing those hoses and extending the MAF plugin, since I found it. That little oval plug was a 1x2, with both wires black, no stripes. Now that I think about it I'm pretty sure that's the AC plug, and since I have no AC pump on it right now, it obviously has nowhere to go. Everything else vital looks to be hooked up, and I'll snag some hose tomorrow morning to do the brake booster and heater core, along with bolting my interior back together now that I know wiring's good.

But now I'm baffled by five MORE connections. First off is the four little nozzles under the intake manifold at the back. They're color coded, but the hoses were chopped, and I can't locate on that diagram exactly where they go. The colors are Red, White, Blue, and Green. I thought two might go to the carbon canister, but from what I've been researching, the two hoses from the throttle body go over there, meaning the KA color coding doesn't match up. Now before there were three hoses that came from under the body on the USDM driver side, over the top of the fan shroud with the KA, and connected in to similar connections on the KA. I thought these were fuel lines, but apparently not. I just have no clue what they are, or how they're supposed to go.

Also, this little sucker. The nozzle down there pointing up is bigger than that cut hose, so that can't be where the hose goes, but I don't see anywhere else for that hose, unless it's supposed to tap into intake. It's coming off a small cylindrical thing, with that hose going directly back to the turbo. My thought was it might be the wastegate, in which case I could just let it vent off to atmostphere, but if it was meant to be hooked to something, wouldn't THAT feed back into intake, leaving that mysterious cut hose? Oh, I have no idea where that pipe goes to, I think it comes back out of the intake manifold somewhere, since it snakes behind the engine into a huge mess of piping and hosing.

So from what I can tell, I have two hoses meant to feed into the intake where there's no taps left in the stock intake hose, two hoses from the throttle body that have to feed over to the carbon canister, and four hoses meant to go to a carbonl filter with two EGR taps and a fuel tank feed. This makes me feel so retarded. I could lift the engine, pop it apart, change the pistons and rods, and have it back together in a weekend easy, but I can't read a simple vaccum diagram.

At least after all of this pulling the bumper drilling the battery tray and installing the intercooler are going to be almost painfully easy.

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biosehnsucht
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Veen wrote:
those 4 are part of the various vacuum stuffs (variable intake, FPR rising for autos).. you don't have to use them if you're not hooking everything up like stockQuote »[/quote]On the left side there have the remnants of the stock boost control stuff, if you disconnect that T and run the WG straight into the compressor housing nipple, that'll work until you get a boost controller..

On the right, that pipe that goes around the back, is part of the variable intake stuff, it provides a connection to unboosted, filtered air source. IF you are not hooking it up correctly you don't need it. you could if you want use it to run WG signal from the back of the intake manifold instead of the compressor, just cap the compressor fitting.

The stuff w/ the charcoal canister is not EGR stuff, EGR has nothing to do with it, stop calling it EGR :P we have no EGR!

sdtouge
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Car: 1990 240sx coupe

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yep these guys nailed it all on the head.ca vacuum is CAKE!that motor is nasty.....

i have a spare ca maf in my garage, if your interested lemme [email protected]

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c-rad
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Car: 1991 Nissan 240SX w/CA18DET
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Purple Power PWNZ jOO!

Veen
Posts: 87
Joined: Tue Apr 19, 2005 11:15 pm
Car: 1991 Nissan 240SX SE w/HICAS
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sdtouge wrote:yep these guys nailed it all on the head.ca vacuum is CAKE!that motor is nasty.....

i have a spare ca maf in my garage, if your interested lemme [email protected]
Thanks for the offer, but I've got the MAF, just need to extend the plug over to the USDM driver side. As for the rest of that vaccum crap, I'm just going to plug it. I need to get the car running ASAP, not neccesarily running optimally. I can tweak and dink with it after I get it going.

Tomorrow I fix my bleeder valve which I broke, reassemble my clutch, reroute those heater hoses, remove the resonator box under the passenger side, and extend that MAF plug. All I should need to do then as far as I can tell is get the intercooler hooked up.


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