CA rebuilding advice needed

Discuss topics related to the CA18DE and CA18DET series engines.
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jt15833
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Ok I don't know why but I've done my headgasket twice now and it's leaking still. I have been very meticulous and inspecting everything, trying to be as careful as possible, yet I still do not have the results I want. It is very upsetting and demoralizing. This last time I...

- had the head resurfaced- *tried* to clean the block up with a perfectly flat steel block and 400 grit sandpaper : it came out smooth and flat to within .04mm (<.1mm spec)- new headgasket (no copper spray)- arp headstuds

Both times I have found leaks on the driver side of the engine, very back, between block and head. Right above the CA18 imprint on the block. This time not only is oil coming out, but coolant as well. I have not been able re-torque the headstuds on this last time around since I stripped a valve cover screw last night, but I will when I get home from work today. However I do not think it's likely that this will fix my issue.

So my plan now is to get it rebuilt by some shop here in Atlanta. I think the entire engine could use a fresh start anyhow other than an in car headgasket job. I'd like to list the components I want to get replaced and see if anyone can add to this. This is not a high horsepower rebuild but I would like a solid base to start modifying. The engine will not go over 280whp in the next few years.-Oil pump -Crank timing cog and woodruff key-Front and rear main seal-Main bearing-Rod bearings-Piston rings-Headgasket-Timing belt-I can re-use the arp's ya?

One of the things I had noticed during the last two installs, even with the headstuds in place and the dowl pins on the head, the headgasket is still able to slide around on the block. What I mean is, there are a few different positions it could lay in during installation. If I tried to center the fire rings around the cylinders, the oil passages on the HG were not quite on. If I tried to center the oil passages, the fire rings and coolant holes would not be quite on. Any expert advice on this point?

Thank you all and hopefully I can have a strong CA18DET base to start messing with, something I've been working hard for these last 4 months.

Jon


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r34 gtr
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What kind of head gasket are you using, OEM?

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jt15833
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Felpro. 9563PT I believe. Bought it too many times...

I used an OEM once and I think it had the same issue.

boost_boy
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jt15833 wrote:Felpro. 9563PT I believe. Bought it too many times...

I used an OEM once and I think it had the same issue.
Are you sure something is not cracked or warped out of spec? Even if you didn't re-torque the headgasket, it still shouldn't be leaking.

Dee

boost_boy
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jt15833 wrote: One of the things I had noticed during the last two installs, even with the headstuds in place and the dowl pins on the head, the headgasket is still able to slide around on the block. What I mean is, there are a few different positions it could lay in during installation. If I tried to center the fire rings around the cylinders, the oil passages on the HG were not quite on. If I tried to center the oil passages, the fire rings and coolant holes would not be quite on. Any expert advice on this point?

Thank you all and hopefully I can have a strong CA18DET base to start messing with, something I've been working hard for these last 4 months.

Jon
I also have a problem with this. If you're considering a rebuilt engine, make sure you have a working platform. If needed, I can build you an engine, but that's only in an extreme case. You shouldn't be having the problems you're having, period.

Dee

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jt15833
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I don't understand what you mean Dee. I want to take my engine out and get it rebuilt. By working platform, you mean my car? By my last statement, all I mean is that there is a lot of things I want to do with this engine but haven't had a chance since I can't even get it working properly to being with. I think we're on the same page.

bentvalves
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About the head gasket having to be aligned by eye, what is the cause of that? And why ARP hardware when stock headstuds would be 100% capable. I remember my OEM nissan headgasket being aligned by the dowel pins snug and sound. I have no experience with the ARP's but it seems that every person thats having issues with steel headgaskets is also using ARP hardware.

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jt15833
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I find it unlikely that no one knows of the headgasket play issue. Many people say felpro's work great for decent power over stock. No one noticed the play issue?


meminto
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Headgasket should not move around, I have never come across this particular issue, are you sure the dowels are in place and in good condition?

Also, was the head reco'd? or at least crack tested? Even a couple of thou warp will cause issues...

Steel headgasket issues only really surface if the block/head are not prepped correctly (I know you are using a standard type) but the same principal should apply to these gaskets too...

boost_boy
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jt15833 wrote:I don't understand what you mean Dee. I want to take my engine out and get it rebuilt. By working platform, you mean my car? By my last statement, all I mean is that there is a lot of things I want to do with this engine but haven't had a chance since I can't even get it working properly to being with. I think we're on the same page.
When I say working platform I mean an engine with no cracks and not worn beyond its specified service limits.

Dee

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float_6969
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As other's have said, the HG shouldn't move around. Some of the coolant ports in the front of the head may be blocked off, but all of the oil ports should be lined up.

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jt15833
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I was using new OEM dowel pins and a felpro headgasket. It was able to move around, and now that I think about it, probably enough to have caused a problem like this.

I doubt it's an out of spec, slipped by quality control headgasket from felpro. Maybe I am just very unlucky. Anyway I am taking the engine out tonight/tomorrow for full rebuild from a shop down here. The only thing I am worried about it the block surface. I think they should deck it, since there is corrosion and pitting by alot of the coolant jackets. Anyway, it's up to them and if it doesn't work then its still there fault!

Hopefully I will be boosting in 2 weeks. Started this repair June 14th, 2008.


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