Ca normal running temp and ecu question?

Discuss topics related to the CA18DE and CA18DET series engines.
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lovemy89240
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Car: CA powered 1970 datsun 510
Location: SSF, CA

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As the title states i have 2 questions

1. What is the normal running temp for these engines? Right now I'm running what i asume to be a stock thermostat with an afco dual core full aluminum radiator and mishimoto 12' elec fan, and during mornings and cold outside temps it'll stay around 125F,
during the day, normal driving and even spirited driving my temp stays at 145-150F, is this normal? (incase it helps I live in the san Francisco area so the temps out side usually don't go over 75 haha)

Also if I sit in traffic or let it just idle after a drive the temp will rise to 180-210F
If you guys could help figure out why or give me advice on how to fix this I'd appriciate it.

And my second question is, I have my ecu mounted in my glove box (Datsun 510) with the diagnostic lights facing me, now when I'm accelerating or just maintaning speed I see the green light flashing and the farther I push the pedal down the faster the LED will flash,
also when I hit boost (positive pressure) the led will stay solid green sometimes, but the led will also turn off when I hit boost othertimes is this normal?

Also when I come to a stop I'll notice my idle will drop and the green LED will come on. Is this normal also?

Any helps appriciated, Thank!
Last edited by lovemy89240 on Thu Jan 05, 2012 8:01 am, edited 3 times in total.


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float_6969
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Sounds like a stuck open thermostat. NOT should be around 180°F. It sounds like it's only getting there once you stop moving.

Not sure on the lights. I don't have a stock ECU anymore, but when I did, I was never able to see the lights while I was driving. I don't remember anything in the FSM about it doing what you describe though.

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lovemy89240
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Could the cold running temp Also have something to do with my car having hesitation and weird running issues?
(possibly always running in warm-up mode, or always in closed loop operation?)

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float_6969
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Not likely. Fix the thermostat and check the ECU to see if it has any codes. The procedure is listed in the FSM (Factory Service Manual) in the FAQ.

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lovemy89240
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So just a quick update, I checked the ECU for codes and it threw code 12 and 13.
So my CTS and MAF I guess are bad, that could explain the hard start when it's cold, crappy idle, lack of power and my hesitation issue at around 2500-3000 rpm :(

Sounds like I found all of my problems ehh?

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float_6969
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That would explain all of your issues! Due to the age of this stuff, always check the wiring before you replace a component. Especially with the MAFS, since you know the wires were messed with then the harness was lengthened to move the MAFS. A failed CTS isn't uncommon for a car this age either.

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lovemy89240
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So I replaced the CTS and thermostat, car seems to be running better, and the CPU hasn't thrown the maf code again so maybe the connector just came loose and threw the cOde. so I made sure it's on there good and I'll see if it pops up again....

On another note my autometer water temp gauge is still reading a Max temp of 150F even after I replaced the thermostat, so maybe the gauge temp sensor is bad?
I pulled it out and it doesn't look fried but maybe it's gone bad?

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float_6969
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where do you have the temp probe located?

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lovemy89240
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Its in the thermostat housing next to the CTS, in the stock sender location.

boost_boy
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I would change the temperature gauge sender as they do go bad.

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lovemy89240
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Anybody know if the autometer sending unit will work?
It comes with the 3/8" NPT and 1/2" NPT adapter fittings?


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