CA Coilpack Cover

[jdmDAvey]

Hey was wondering if anyone had a spare coilpack cover I could buy? when I got my motor set there wasnt one on mine!! just wondering, thanks..

Dave.

[float_6969]

You don't want it on there anyway buddy. Those Coilpacks are infamous for failing due to the heat they are exposed to. Removing the coilpack cover allows them to run cooler.

[beans33]

float i didnt really thinik about that... something to keep in mind

[float_6969]

If you wanted to be super cool, you could fab up a vented aluminum plate and get 2-4 CPU fans and mount them on there. You're geeky computer friends would have a fit!

[beans33]

and i would have a good laugh. but cool though.... i guess

[float_6969]

Or you could just leave the plastic thing off like normal people...

[ragenasian]

I got one sitting in my shed if you still want one.

You could always just drill some nicely lined up holes in the stock cover too

[themadscientist]

If you go computer fans get the nifty led ones!

[dvd]

If you go computer fans get the nifty led ones!

we might as well put some nice heatsinks on top of each coilpack

[themadscientist]

Phase-change cooling! a Peltier on each coil! Them bishez would have condensation forming on them even at full boost!

[float_6969]

Now to find a 100Amp Alternator to run them....

[DjLiquid]

as funny or silly that may sound, I think that it would be pretty cool to see. But keeping in mind that the hot air would only be vented a few inches into the air off the coil packs into the already hot engine bay I doubt it would actually do anything

[float_6969]

I'll bet you the hot engine bay air is cooler than the air down in that plug valley. Plus it would be moving hot air, which still cools better than not moving hot air.

[DjLiquid]

I'll bet you the hot engine bay air is cooler than the air down in that plug valley. Plus it would be moving hot air, which still cools better than not moving hot air.

science teaches us that air is always moving. i may be wrong here but from what i remember high pressure air moves towards areas of lower pressure... thus the cooler air is looking for 'warmer' air to merge with since it's less dense... but of course, take in the factors of a moving car and the air being forced through the front dam or possibly a hood scoop (like myself), it probably wouldnt be that much of a difference.

but to pick out what u said, moving air is better than 'dead' (or slower moving) air.

PS. You'd need some pretty killer cpu fan's and heatsinks to go on each one

[float_6969]

Wait, I've got it! We'll fill the valley full of vegetable oil. Then we'll hook up a pump and a radiator for the oil. Less amp draw than the Peltier cooler for sure.

It'll kinda make changing the plugs a pain though....

[DjLiquid]

Wait, I've got it! We'll fill the valley full of vegetable oil. Then we'll hook up a pump and a radiator for the oil. Less amp draw than the Peltier cooler for sure.

It'll kinda make changing the plugs a pain though....

Now youre thinking! =D

I agree that the coils do emmit ALOT of heat and it looks like they already have some sorta heatsynks on them. I would definatly give praise to someone who went out there and decided to try something original and i think they might get a few idea's from this thread and try something out.

I myself just got a great idea. I may just try and make it this summer.

Imagine a cpu heatsynk. Now imagine it being 12"x2.5"x1". It would basically replace the coil cover but yet still be bolted TO the coil packs (the bolt holding the packs into the head, thus transfering the heat throughout the unit. It would look pretty sweet ***!.... if you feel the need to throw on a cpu fan and a few led's, go for it =)

what do u think?

[DjLiquid]

imagine this baby mounted where your cover used to be. The pic is a just a sample. of course it would be the full size of the cover and have holes for it to be mounted

[themadscientist]

Bah, so limited in ones thinking. Peltiers on each coil with waterblocks feeding a dedicated cooling system with a radiator, pump and reservoir.

Or you could just run without a hood, that would get some air moving over the engine!

[ragenasian]

how about a hood scoop with a channel right into the coil pack cover, then the air could exit out the rear of the hood.

[themadscientist]

rainy days would worry me as much as having no hood.

[missionsix43]

need to stick a cover in a mill and cut out the plastic between the ridges, that would still look good, cover the packs, and allow air to flow out.

[ragenasian]

rainy days would worry me as much as having no hood.

Yeah I know more of a joke

[bentvalves]

How about lifting the hood 1/2 " in the rear? That has to get some sort of airflow going.

[Sil40sK]

need to stick a cover in a mill and cut out the plastic between the ridges, that would still look good, cover the packs, and allow air to flow out.

That's what I did on my stock cover, it looks good and still seems to allow a lot of air to reach the coils. I'll post pictures when I get home.

[dash]

or get rid of the COP like many have, converted to bosch or GM coils with plug wires... and live happily ever after

[davidricardo86]

or get rid of the COP like many have, converted to bosch or GM coils with plug wires... and live happily ever after

Re-he-he-heally! Got any pictures of this my friend? Interesting exchange. Is it direct or are you using a standalone or something besides the oem computer?

[float_6969]

It would take a little rewiring, but I think if you used an MSD module with GM coils, you could run it off of the stock ECU. Plus you could ditch the ignitor too.

[missionsix43]

or get rid of the COP like many have, converted to bosch or GM coils with plug wires... and live happily ever after

Good idea, get rid of your cam sensor next and use a distributor.

[dash]

david,still oe nissan ecu, direct coil replacement.a very detailed writeup on this forum on the bosch coil mod, with pictures. I believe I posted the RB/GM coil skyline link in that thread. I'll dig up the links if you come up empty.A lot of folks been frustrated chasing used ca18 coils, only to have them fail shortly after replacing - forget buying new one$$$.

Missionso you reckon experienced RB/CA folks came up with this alternative so they can work their way back to a distributor ? Tell us your 'better idea' then.

You see our COP offering any advantage over 450hp miata 1.8s, 500hp toyota 1.6s or 650 ft-lb mitsu 4s... all using stock coil packs ?

SDS gets rid of COP & the CAS... ask them if they miss it. Or have you not seen a sds/ca18 monster. Those are GM coils btw.

600hp honda 1.8s rev past 8500rpm. distributor look fine to me.

coilpacks can be more reliable, far cheaper to replace and facilitate 'quick' plug reads when tuning.

[Sil40sK]

Missionso you reckon experienced RB/CA folks came up with this alternative so they can work their way back to a distributor ? Tell us your 'better idea' then.

You see our COP offering any advantage over 450hp miata 1.8s, 500hp toyota 1.6s or 650 ft-lb mitsu 4s... all using stock coil packs ?

SDS gets rid of COP & the CAS... ask them if they miss it. Or have you not seen a sds/ca18 monster. Those are GM coils btw.

600hp honda 1.8s rev past 8500rpm. distributor look fine to me.

coilpacks can be more reliable, far cheaper to replace and facilitate 'quick' plug reads when tuning.

What GM motor did you source coils from? Just a 3800?