ca bearings

[xyster]

I ordered one set of each kind of bearing in the CA from nissan the other day, and they came in today. I also got a complete set from Federal Mogul via Advance Auto Parts online. The Federal Mogul bearings were $19/set for conn rod, and $34/set for crank. We all know how much Nissan bearings cost from the dealership. I took one set of each type (new oe from nissan, used oe out of my ca, and fed. mogul) to work today to measure them with a micrometer to see if they're the same size (which they are). After mic'ing them all, I noticed something about the measurements...the FM bearings all measured much more consistently. The OE bearings all had variations in thickness much greater than the FM... .00045" with the OE vs .00005" with the FM. I'm not sure how much difference that makes, probably not much, but I'd still like to use the most consistently machined bearing I can get. The Nissan bearings were also rougher to the touch and visibly more scratched. Having said all that...is there any reason I would choose OE over FM? Is there a reason why OE are several times more expensive, besides the "nissan" name brand markup? do the FM wear faster or anything? Everything I've read about FM bearings is good...noone seems to have a complaint about them.

[paul_s13]

I have FM bearings and there fine.

[McAdam]

I'd say go with whatever works. I ahve always heard great things about FM as well. has anyone ever heard of these toga ? I have heard good things about them, but has anyone used them???

McAdam

[alfred183]

whoa, those toga ones look good"for use in high rpms and naws"

[Movingviolation240]

I had the FM bearings, was spinning it to 9000rpm every day, they held up great.

Paul

[float_6969]

Paul, your ex motor (ya know, the good one ;0) is my dream motor. One day, I'll see 9G's on the tach, one day.....

[quest]

I tried a "rod bearing" thread, but didn't get much useful feedback outta it. ca18det is new around herenot sure what measuring bearing thickness reveals. May be nothing more than a "film/cusion", that "wears" itself properly during breakin.Remember Nissan oe bearings are PROVEN top notch quality, simply because of the fact that it brought your turbocharged motor this far, thousands of trouble free miles, to you. Lotsa OZ and UK guys have run 300hp+ on virgin "old" long blocks. Proof enough? Its when these rod bearings are worn, these motors WILL sh1t the bed.

what nissan bearings did you buy? Did you GRADE them ?

Guys who have changed their rod bearings.... questions;Did you run them on you original UNCUT crankshaft ?How many miles have you done since ?

Heres my viewI've run machined cranks with undersized bearings in other motors. I beat the heck outta them, tryin' to bust 'em up... they never blinked.I'm sure that route is a proven option for a CA.

What about bearings for your non machined original crank ?Seen guys on forums try to get by only replacing shells, only to be sidelined, just a few miles down the road. Same problem. They've just wasted their money/time. Damaged (mis-judged?) journals, from original rod knock, most likely the culprit? Cut crank would've solved that.

If crank is in "great" shape, Graded oe bearings are what experienced nissan enthusiats have posted, works AND lasts.... just like the manual suggests.I wonder if the replaced rod bearing problems reside in what different people regard as "journals in perfect condition" ?.... and if journals are "perfect", could federal, ACL and other standard" aftermarket bearings *last*. If so, why would nissan, toyota, etc. specify graded standard bearings ?

just some thoughts on the subject

[xyster]

Thickness is the most important dimension of the bearing, or so I understand. That's why I measured them, to make sure I put the same size bearings back in. I have a row of the number "1" stamped on my crankshaft, so my crank bearings are all the same, no difference in grade. I'll be using a uncut crank, because it's in great shape. I'm sure I could have left the bearings in there too, because they're also in great shape. Experienced Nissan Enthusiasts in this very thread posted that FM bearings work great...so they've been proven to "work AND last" too.

I seriously questions the quality of OE Nissan bearings. Like I said, all the ones I got from Nissan looked used. If I had a digicam, I'd post comparison pics between all 3 sets of bearings I have. The brand new OE are scratched, pitted, had what looks like carbon in big spots on them, some of the corners were rounded, etc...just generally nasty looking. The FM, by comparison, were glass-smooth...just generally beautiful. Just because it has "Nissan" stamped on it doesn't make it "top notch".

[quest]

row of "1"s stamped on the crank? ....and what about the block ?Don't you *add* the numbers to get the grade, as per manual ?...I guess it doesn't matter since your new nissan bearings look like crap tho, huh ? Dunno what they gave you, mine didn't.

measuring bearing thickness with a mic was not what I was taught

only trying to clear up some info in an attempt to help out others, since many CAs are plagued with rod bearing problems, even after replacing shells. Just trying to pinpoint the problemAnyhow, I'll drop the bearing issue... and see how my 2 motors fare Lotsa modded CAs have plenty "down time", with not a whole lotta actual miles, thats why I question the longevity. On the other hand I notice some would mod them, only own 'em for a brief period, then bail.Just an observation

on a side note, 9000rpm daily ?how long did it "live" like that.... still doing it ?why the switch to SR ?

[xyster]

I have an FSM, I've read the section on grading bearings, I know how to add them to find the grade. Let me say this again...I got the EXACT SAME BEARINGS for the motor that came out of it, from Nissan, and they're the EXACT SAME THICKNESS as the FM bearings. Isn't that what grade is?

I'm just posting things I noticed about these bearings, that's all. You can believe it, or don't, it doesn't matter to me. If I had a Digicam, I'd post pics of the new, used-looking, OE bearings. Quest, I realize you're just trying to help people, but you can do it with a less condescending attitude and fewer sarcastic remarks.

[quest]

dude, I'm dunno what sorta vibes you may be reading into my text, but you're getting waaayy too emotional about this crapI NEVER said anything about not believeing youU know what, disregard my feedback- obviously, dialogue in this thread at this time is fruitless. Its your motor and I really don't care what you do.... I've got it figured outlater

[CA19DET]

i'll get the specific info about my engine clearences and bearing grades soon, my engine builder went Ibiza and should be abck this week, and the final build up will begine, ill be taking lots of pics and posting lots of tech inof i can mooch from him.. he has build many 700+whp 4 bangers when he was competing in IDRC etc

he was running a 4G63 and says the similarity between the CA and 4G63 is cool, even the headgaskets are almost the same, i wanted to use the 4G torque plate but no dice, slightly off

anyway, he didnt like the look and clearence measurements of the OE bearings, he went with the FM as he has used them in the past and they hed up great.. HE currently was runnign a set of custom made Klevite coated special bearings that the guys in Champ car etc use.. i gotta get the info on that but wheni asked himn he said not worth it for a street motor..

i'll post some more info on all this soon..

oh those TOGA High Performance Main & Rod Bearings are grooved and really look slick.

[andrave]

what is the point of undersizing the bearings? I'm not clear on this at all.