okay so I have a 92 NA , and i'm getting the EVIL code 34..... i can do the 1mgoh resistor trick to take the code away it works for about 10min with the car at ide
then instant with in that 10min span i can hear the timing go from perfect purring like a kitten to what sounds like the belt popping the cover, so stop the car check the codes and 34 is back up. so i know i have a short somewhere. from what i can tell reading forums here and other sites, the fail safe "retards" the timing , anyways back the to subject at hand , what do i need to do at the ecu besides splicing the knocksensor wire "white 24 or 23 if memory is correct "

do i need to ground it out on the main ground wire for the ecu or any metal surface i find, or do i need to use a resistor if so where do i need to connect it

anyone with some photos of this or can give me some pretty easy steeps , im just looking for a bandaid fix for the time being until i get wire ran and get the time to replace the sensor "looks like a day job"

Better yet, just relocate the knock sensor to the top of the plenum.

Replacing the sensor in its stock location is far more than a day job FYI... relocating is a much better option unless you're rebuilding the engine

okay I understand doing that but, I have a short somewhere in the line . hints why I would like to bypass at the ecu for the time being . or if its not the knock sensor seting off the code 34 then something else that could be putting my car in failsafe mode. because the resistor bypass only works for atmost 10 mins before the car ides down and starts to sound ruff after reseting the ecu

okay so , got it relocated .... still pulling a code 34 after install n reset, so now I need help with Rewiring/repairing the leadwire "green wire" from the harness its cracked or split some where , or someone help with my bypass question because that is still seems simpler

You could run a new wire and follow the harness that exits out of the passenger kick panel area into the wheel well and up into the engine bay. Alternatively you could drill through the firewall directly into that area from somewhere behind the battery and down low. It would be better to run a new wire than to go without IMO

I got it fix. nice and relocated, the CAS and knock sensor plugs were backwards (I might have done it and not noticed) knock sensor was still bad, and the harness was damaged . a quick dab of liquid tape and heat shrink fix her up, all clear 55

Hi! This is an old thread but I have an issue...
My knock sensor was relocated on the upper plenum. I usually do all of the work on my car myself but for this I didn’t. They removed the plugs and just directly wired it into the harness and I’m really confused as to what they soldered where. I AM STILL GETTING CODE 34.
Could someone explain in as much detail as you mind giving how to bypass it in an easier way than in the engine bay? Or just an easy way?
I am good at soldering, but I am new to wiring work and understanding wiring through the harness unless the wires have colored insulation though...mine don’t since the mechanics did some weird stuff...they said that it had continuity, but I am still getting code 34. I need to see if this is giving me my driving problems, so even if this is just a temporary fix that would still be good. I have a 1993 NA.