Bypassing knock sensor at ECU, or running new wire.

[Miked.]

Hello all, new here, but have been lurking for all of 3 days.. Anywhoo, recently picked up a inexpensive 1995 NA AUTO 300 for my daughter. The car needed some work but I got her in ALMOST running order. My issue now is the dreaded code 34. Realized that to replace the stock one is a huge ordeal, so, I installed a new one elsewhere, which still led me to code 34. I assume the harness is bad. Now my question is can I just run a singular wire from pin 23 at the ecu, to the knock sensor itself?

Now, before I do that, I'd like to make sure that this is the issue. What I would like to do, is just bypass it right at the ecu, so my other question would be about that. I would assume I would just jump a 1k ohm resistor from pin 23 at the ECU Straight too ground, or would that be the incorrect way of bypassing it right at the ECU? Thanks everyone!

[ThisIsSparTTa]

Hey, I know this sounds stupid, but the VTCs use the same connector as the Knock Sensor. The VTC wire should be wrapped in a white sheath. Make sure you have everything plugged into the correct places.

Otherwise, you could bypass temporarily at the ECU, but don't make that a permanent fix. Because it is an acoustical measurement, make sure you don't just run a normal wire back to the ECU, because it will be very prone to noise. Use a shielded wire and ground one end of that shield to the car chassis.

I'm not sure if 1k is the right value to bypass with, hopefully someone else can chime in.

[Miked.]

Yeah im sure that I have the correct connector. I was concerned originally when I attempted to bypass is at the plug itself, because as I pulled back the tape to solder a resistor on it, the black wire was actually a unshielded wire about 2" back. But after some research I was sure that it was it. I must have a break along the line somewhere, as this car has shown me multiple times this is an issue. Im just about ready to order a brand new harness all together off ebay for 425 IIRC, but I just wanted to be 100% certain that there is an issue with a bad connection between the ECU and the KS itself. Thanks!

[t.mcginley.jr]

Dude you're going too far into this, its just the subharness that's bad assuming you put in a new KS and relocated it.

Z1 sells upgraded subharnesses for $20:

http://www.z1motorsports.com/product_in ... ts_id=6565

[nissanfreak12]

What Jr said or this...I know you said you relocated already, but where did you relocate it?

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q ... 7178,d.aWc

[Miked.]

That's essentially the same kit I used, but I just pieced it together myself. But no worries, the car is back in order. I was in the neighbor hood of a Nissan salvage yard and happened to pop in there. They had a complete engine harness for 75 bucks that looked to be in great condition. I installed it the next morning (which was a PAIN!) and I fired the car up and it ran GREAT!! This Is what this car must have felt like right off the show room floor! Thanks for the help guys.

PS, I installed the wrong value resistor the first time I tried to bypass it. After the 1k ohm was mentioned that it may be the wrong resistor, I went back and double checked it. I must have been very tired because 1 MEGA ohm, is definitely not one kilo ohm lol.