I've gutted my vehicle's Bose system and am wondering how to bypass the rear amp. I'd prefer to use factory wiring to hook up the two rear speakers if at all possible. Anybody know exactly how? I know which wires from the amp harness correspond to the speaker wires via looking at the FSM, but I still don't know where the amp's output wiring is that leads to the speakers, so I don't know what to connect to bypass it.
I'm also wondering how to hook up the front tweeters. I noticed that the Bose speakers have two wires on the positive and negative terminals, so I assume I must splice those in with the connection I made for the door speakers? I hooked up the door speakers by cutting off and stripping two wires that were plugged in to the amp, to the left of the bottom black and red wires when looking at the connector upright. I can probably supply a picture tomorrow if required.
I have no other issues with wiring the head unit or anything else, just need to hook up the speakers and that's it.
EDIT: Looking at
the FSM again, it would seem that the rear amp uses one cable for its input and output. Do I need to connect pins 5 + 25, 18 + 26, 7 + 1, and 20 + 2 in order to bypass the amp?
EDIT2: To hook up the tweeters, I need to splice in pins 2/6 to pins 1/3 in the 6-wire plug for the tweeters to function, correct?
EDIT3: Hooking both sets of speakers to one wire will produce a 2-ohm load. I will wire them in series to produce 8-ohms and then use fader on the deck to even the difference in power between front/rear.
EDIT4: Not bothering with the factory tweeters. The speakers I bought are three-way speakers so they have their own tweeters which sound excellent. If I get an amp for the door speakers at some point, I'll run new wiring from the factory tweeters to the deck so they'd be powered by the deck while the door speakers are being powered by the external amp. Had no issues with soldering the front wires, but upon replacing both door panels, there is still a noticeable gap on the side of the speaker grilles on both doors. I will take a picture tomorrow to illustrate. There's probably something protruding from the new speaker causing the gap.
Nobody's sure about connecting those wires to bypass the rear amp? Did nobody do this before, or did you all just run new wiring? I suppose I'll mount a speaker in one of the doors, solder the wiring within the door, then use some loose wire to bridge the two wires within the rear amp connector and hope I don't blow anything up while testing it.