Buzzing Noise in my trunk

[slybydesignq45t]

I was placing something in my trunk and heard the bee noise in my trunk. I know now that my stalling last week was do to the fuel pump not having enough fuel. Even though my tank was not empty it had 4 gallon pass the reserve so I assume about 6 gallons total. I filled her up and she runs fine.

I don't have the money to change the FP and filter yet do to all the money I've already spent last week on brakes, rotors, and TB cleaning.

Since this just started can I still drive the car till mid November. Thats when I will have the $250+ to fix this?

Thanks

[TBrack]

It's the Fuel pump, if you keep putting it off it's going to be the FPC too which is a few hundred to replace.

[slybydesignq45t]

I wont put it off, for the fact that I don't want to loose all the money I've spent fixing her thus far. It just I would say last week, but I officially heard it yesterday. My question is could I still drive her till mid November? I would assume three weeks wouldn't be to bad, but I want to know for sure.

[Q45tech]

The slowing down of fuel pump makes the noise audible and increases the current thru the fuel pump controller causing it to overheat and fail from solder melts or worse transistor failures.

The risk is great! As the FPCU costs ~$500 new. Luckily cool [trunk]weather buys you more time than in summer heat.

Common to replace fuel pumps every ~ 100k or 7 years.I'm on number 3 after 18+ years.

[slybydesignq45t]

The slowing down of fuel pump makes the noise audible and increases the current thru the fuel pump controller causing it to overheat and fail from solder melts or worse transistor failures.

The risk is great! As the FPCU costs ~$500 new. Luckily cool [trunk]weather buys you more time than in summer heat.

Common to replace fuel pumps every ~ 100k or 7 years.I'm on number 3 after 18+ years.

Thanks you very much Q45tech. It is colder these days which is good. The buzzing noise thus far can only be heard if you have to put something in the trunk or when you turn off the car and have nothing else running, but its not loud. It will only be till mid November, but I wont put it off further then that. So much for my vacation money for my birthday....

[Haitian_King]

The slowing down of fuel pump makes the noise audible and increases the current thru the fuel pump controller causing it to overheat and fail from solder melts or worse transistor failures.

The risk is great! As the FPCU costs ~$500 new. Luckily cool [trunk]weather buys you more time than in summer heat.

Common to replace fuel pumps every ~ 100k or 7 years.I'm on number 3 after 18+ years.

Tech,

I'm at 97,600 on my 92 and on what I believe is my original FP. I haven't seen any mention of the FP or FPCU being replaced in my Q's history. But then again, there is a space of about 6 years/60k miles that I know nothing about.

Is there any way to look at the pump and verify its condition?

[Q45tech]

Sure destructively disassemble the pump and measure the brush length and examine the commutators for wear, but then the pump is no good.

A less damaging method is to measure the pump rpm and current draw and observe the current waveform.

Unfortunately the FPCU acts to dampen and isolate the waveforms to a degree.

Use an ampified current probe and a digital oscilloscope [cost ~~$1,000]

http://www.lindertech.com/fuelpump.htmh ... elpump.htm

http://z.about.com/w/experts/C...s.jpg

[Infinitiguy19]

What about the fuel pressure Gauges method?

http://www.harborfreight.com/c...92699

[Q45tech]

Someone who recently changed their fuel pump and fuel filter might measure the amperes at warmed up idle by using an ammeter in place of the fuel pump fuse..............................~ 5-6 amperes.......................again the FPCU confuses the EXACT NUMBER since its draw is added into total.

[Q451990]

In response to the original question - keep your gas tank topped off. Keeping the pump submerged in fuel helps to keep it cooler. I would top of at 1/2 a tank or even higher if possible.

Heath

[Haitian_King]

Sure destructively disassemble the pump and measure the brush length and examine the commutators for wear, but then the pump is no good.

A less damaging method is to measure the pump rpm and current draw and observe the current waveform.

Unfortunately the FPCU acts to dampen and isolate the waveforms to a degree.

Use an ampified current probe and a digital oscilloscope [cost ~~$1,000]

http://www.lindertech.com/fuelpump.htmh ... elpump.htm

http://z.about.com/w/experts/C...s.jpg

Thanks.....

[maxnix]

By driving it for another 3 weeks, the FPCU is at risk, and even with a good used one, that could easily double your costs.

[slybydesignq45t]

In response to the original question - keep your gas tank topped off. Keeping the pump submerged in fuel helps to keep it cooler. I would top of at 1/2 a tank or even higher if possible.

Heath

Thats exactly what I was thinking and am doing to add gas today seeing as I did limited driving this weekend, only to work and back. I have slightly over half a tank now, so I will filler up, besides gas prices are lower today then on Friday so I need to take advantage of that.

[slybydesignq45t]

By driving it for another 3 weeks, the FPCU is at risk, and even with a good used one, that could easily double your costs.

Thanks Max. Sadly to say resent repairs, rent, monthly bills have me tapped. As you should know by this point, I would have had her fixed quick. I just have to wait another pay period. I would say I am about $1,300 in-in needed repairs since I purchased her. I will max out at $3,000. That estimate does not include routine service such as tires, oil, light bulbs and filters.

[Kiven422]

Yes you can drive to mid-November

Remember your stretching the time after you found out the fuel pump is already bad. Now your just waiting for it to go out completely. From my experience I would give you 2 months max without any major issues. After that you can expect big problems such as your car not starting for a week or two.

[maxnix]

Thanks Max. Sadly to say resent repairs, rent, monthly bills have me tapped. As you should know by this point, I would have had her fixed quick. I just have to wait another pay period. I would say I am about $1,300 in-in needed repairs since I purchased her. I will max out at $3,000. That estimate does not include routine service such as tires, oil, light bulbs and filters.

Yeah, you are right on schedule!

Just don't want you to burn out the FPCU.

[slybydesignq45t]

Thanks. I was talking to a female friend of mine last night about her car. She didn't know if she should buy a new one, used one or fix hers. It got really intense because she has not serviced the car in the four years of ownership besides the basics, like brakes, oil changes which she does do religiously. Other issues she is afraid to address. She is scared because it has 123,000 miles, but I told her my car has 166,000 miles and it could run for almost another 150,000 if taken care of. She said she never saw a car do those numbers, I told her because most people aren't part of forums nor do they take the time to research known issues. She started out by asking me why did I buy a car with 164,000 miles on it. I told her I felt secure about my purchase because I had a set budget I would spend the first couple of months, then a set budget each year. I also told her repeatedly to join her cars' forum to read what the average issues are. Like her car won't start during the summer. I told her, on average people on her forum receive condensation on their coper coils in the starter, she said the pros said no it was something else. She had them fix something that had nothing to do with the problem and now her car still has the same issue.

By the end of our conversation she was very much so leaning towards keeping the car. I said to her it only made sense to invest at least $3,000 in service. Keep the car another 3 years then sell if she chooses, but $3,000 would be way cheaper then buying used, or new.

[maxnix]

True, but maybe not if it is a Toyota V6 or some other susceptible engine for sludge build up if she has not maintained OEM specified OCI.

[slybydesignq45t]

She hasn't maintained OEM specs with the exception of religiously changing the oils. Her issues are electrical where as if she learned more about it she could easily fix by changing harnesses or relays, instead she shakes wires hoping they work. I got mad at here several weeks ago about this same issue and it got heated then. She has an Acura TL 1996. Drives nice, with the exception that she has electrical issues a specialist could fix for a couple of hundred. In any event, I pray that she makes a wise choice because she is a friend I care for deeply and hate to see her lag on this. BTW she has more then enough money saved up, so she is not worried in that department. I guess thats why I get mad when she pushes it off so much... .......cuz she has time and money but always seems to have an excuse of sorts.
Modified by slybydesignq45t at 3:41 PM 10/27/2008

[Q45tech]

"to invest at least $3,000 in service. Keep the car another 3 years then sell if she chooses, but $3,000 would be way cheaper then buying used, or new. "

Unfortunately historicallly based on hundreds of Q45 customers and the half dozen employee owned Qg, it runs more than $1,000 per year if you include tires, brakes, fluid- filter exchanges more like $2500 per year if you want to do enough to stem further decline.