Buy tension rods or bushings only

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GuidoInc
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96 Q45 100K I want to replace the bushings on my tension rods. Should I buy only the bushings or buy the whole rod assembly? If I buy the bushings only how difficult is it to remove and press in the bushings?


HeavyDuty
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It's not much fun to press the old ones out or the new ones in, for that matter.

I saw a pic of the inserts for our "Bushings On A Stick" and it appears there's a lip on the outer edges of the bushings. If they are not a two piece bushing, you're likely to tear the lip off while pressing them in.

If you do decide to do the Energy Suspension bushings, do yourself a favor & use "- G" bushings instead of red, blue, etc.

The "-G" is graphite impregnated & don't squeak as much as the others. I don't think these would squeak anyway, they're not like a control/trailing arm bushing or the like, but I would still stick with the graphite's.

I want to hear what the rest of the fella's have to say, my tension rod bushings are shot.

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Jeff Williams
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I found a pair of tension rods on eBay, used, but in great shape. I paid $20.00 for them.

If you decide to just get the bushings, I would suggest taking them to a machine shop, and having them pressed in.

I was going to get the adjustable ones, but was afraid of the kind of stress this would put on the rest of the 174,000 mile susension.

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elwesso
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Get the bushing and have someone press it in!!

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msscomm
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GuidoInc wrote:96 Q45 100K how difficult is it to remove and press in the bushings?


Almost a dupe of my "baby" -

Changing the bushings has to be one of the easiest jobs next to changing oil or tires.

Just buy the bushings from Joe ($14 ea) and then you are looking at less then 10 min/side to zip out 3 bolts, press the old bushings out and press in the new, reassemble the tension rod onto the suspension, then tighten everything back up after you put the front back down on the floor. If you don’t have a press, don’t kill yourself fighting ‘em, most shops can press the bushings in/out for $10 to $20. Since these parts are so highly stressed, get new bushings and don’t kid around at these prices w/used parts!

BTW - The %$$*@#^&* SOB (and I do NOT mean Sweet Old Boy) dealers wanted $470 to change the tension rods vs the $30 in parts I ended up with - I love free enterprise, but this kind of larceny makes me want to reach for the .45 - and I don’t mean malt liquor -

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elwesso
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Email slaughtermimms about the T-rod bushings. He has an extra set, and He'll hook you up with a good deal....

Aztek72
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Unless you're super anal-retentive about factory specs or the T-rods don't look like new, just go with Energy Suspension bushings. They're relatively inexpensive and the handling will improve big time. I first discovered the improvement in handling when riding in Sop's car and shortly thereafter swapped the all the OEM bushings out for E.S. units. Very, very slight sacrifice in comfort but the handling response is immeasurably better.

texasoil
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I replaced the bushings on both my cars 92A and 94A (which have different sizes). Used 1-1/2" pipe coupling as the 'press pin' and a 3" PVC coupling as the receiver, and a heavy hammer as 'the press'. Took just a few minutes to do.

VimyJ
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I very recently replaced my entire suspension with OEM parts. After 1000 miles, the initial harshness of the ride has left. I am amazed at how well balanced the J is now. The car is entirely predictable. I have discovered that the J is now prone to oversteer. There is so much more control input from the front wheels. Throttle steering is a blast. The J sets up beautifully. This is a performance car. Perfect tourer.

Coming out of corners is a whole new experince. Haven't nailed one perfectly yet but I'll keep practicing. :D

GuidoInc
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Which Energy Suspension bushings should I order for a 96 Q45? I have seen talk about different sizes for different years of Q45. I believe the ones for the 240sx and 300zx are supposed to fit, is this correct? Also, does ES have bushings for the front sway bar?

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Q451990
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For the difference in price between new rods vs. just new bushings, you could probably pay the $90 for these. and still have some $$ left over.

http://www.harborfreight.com/c...=2567h ... /c...=2457

I borrowed a press since I didn't want to have to store one, and had no problems doing the swap. Just used a large socket for the drift.

Heath

IvoryJ30t
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VimyJ wrote:I very recently replaced my entire suspension with OEM parts. After 1000 miles, the initial harshness of the ride has left. I am amazed at how well balanced the J is now. The car is entirely predictable. I have discovered that the J is now prone to oversteer. There is so much more control input from the front wheels. Throttle steering is a blast. The J sets up beautifully. This is a performance car. Perfect tourer.

Coming out of corners is a whole new experince. Haven't nailed one perfectly yet but I'll keep practicing. :D


i wonder if the nismo tc rod bushings will fit the j?

HeavyDuty
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Ordered mine (oem) yesterday, installed them tonight. Watch out for the alignment arrow cast into the bushing, it faces towards the front. (look at the old one for orientation)

Nice difference in stability, even with 153k struts, still. (new ones still in box in corner of the office)

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louiegz
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Non DIY Q owners like me are screwed. My dealer has been telling me about the tension rods for the longest but the job will cost close to $700.00 to change them. If I ask them to just change the bushing, they will most likely say no. I have a friend that owns a Mieneke to have the muffler change on my Honda Accord I just sold and he didn't know what tension rods were. He thought I was talking about tie rods. I worry about getting work done here because I dont think he has done a lot of work on Qs before. Not only that, He did my brakes one and they made noise. I was hoping he knew about it because when I asked him about installing the Tokico Blues ( for $300.00 labor) in my Q and I figured it would be a good idea to get the t rods done at the same time. What are the kind of questions I should ask mechanics to see if they know how to do this job? The other reason I'd like to replace only the bushings is that it should last longer that the liquid filled bushing in the OEM t rod. Also whe I get my shocks done, what other bushings should I have changed?

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Jeff Williams
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Louie, I have been told to replace the upper links, too. (These are prone to squeak). Mine seem to be fine (must have been replaced in the recent past). They run about $100 each from Joe.

I bought the sway bar bushings ($8 from Joe), and the tension rods ($25 off of eBay). I also bought the boots that go over the struts (mine are falling apart). These wer about $100 from Joe.

I plan to replace the brake rotors, and pads, when I take it all apart, just to save some labor, later (they are actually working fine, but I have some cross drilled/slotted rotors I want to install).

Maybe a NICO brother can give you a hand. If you want to drive to Alabama, I'll help you do it. Just wait until after Christmas.

maxnix
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louiegz wrote:Non DIY Q owners like me are screwed. My dealer has been telling me about the tension rods for the longest but the job will cost close to $700.00 to change them. If I ask them to just change the bushing, they will most likely say no. I have a friend that owns a Mieneke to have the muffler change on my Honda Accord I just sold and he didn't know what tension rods were. He thought I was talking about tie rods. I worry about getting work done here because I dont think he has done a lot of work on Qs before. Not only that, He did my brakes one and they made noise. I was hoping he knew about it because when I asked him about installing the Tokico Blues ( for $300.00 labor) in my Q and I figured it would be a good idea to get the t rods done at the same time. What are the kind of questions I should ask mechanics to see if they know how to do this job? The other reason I'd like to replace only the bushings is that it should last longer that the liquid filled bushing in the OEM t rod. Also whe I get my shocks done, what other bushings should I have changed?
There is a shop in NJ run by an ex-Infiniti master technician named Keith Vanmeter. Do a search and his phone number might show-up.

I would have all rubber bumpers and mounts (don't need spring cushions) on hand as you can return the unused ones to Joe.

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louiegz
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Jeff Williams wrote:If you want to drive to Alabama, I'll help you do it. Just wait until after Christmas.


Jeff, That is a very kind offer, especialy for someone you dont even know. Thank you. Man, Alabama is a long way for me and you probably end doing most of the work because I have zero mechanical knowlege. By the way, I've seen your posted of your Q and thats one sweet ride. Very tasteful rims. I wished mine looked half as nice.

As far as the upper links, I checked my dealer invoices, and I've seen the they have been replaced about 2 years ago. They charged me $160 each and over $300 for labor. That was my pre NICO days so I didn't know any better. Well that's why I'm here, to learn about my car and meet good people on the way.

Lou

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elwesso
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If you wanna drive out to IN from NJ, Ill help you with out with the T-rods, and you can help me with the plenum.....

Upper links dont take long to replace, an easy DIY....

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louiegz
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Are T rods that fit a 89-96 300zx interchangeable with a 95Q?

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elwesso
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Yes, Im very sure they are....

maxnix
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I am not sure they are (Joe never got a set to measure) but the bushings are the same size. The different bushings may have different elasticity values, however.__________________Brian1995 Q45 & Q45t & 2000 Q45

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Q451990
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$700 to replace tension rods??? WOW! Any decent suspension shop can do this for you. It's two nuts and one bolt. No major removal of other parts. Tension rods are truely one of the easiest jobs on the Q. Same on upper links. Remove wheels - two bolts - nothing to it.

If Vanmeter can't help out, I'd be looking for a good independent that deals with Zs and other Nissans.

Here's the link for Vanmeter's contact information. http://www.nissaninfiniticlub....meter

Heath

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louiegz
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I ask about the Z t rods because I saw these on Ebay.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...02593

The look a lot like the Stillen ones they sell for the Q, and it looks like the bushing shold last longer because its not liquid filled.

So Heath, if doing the t rods are that easy, then maybe I should stop being such a baby and do it myself. What's the worst that can happen? How bad can I screw it up? So how do I do it?

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Q451990
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Those look like tension rods, but I sure wouldn't put them on the Q. I think they'd be very harsh with little or no bushings! Basically there's one large bolt that goes through the bushing end, and then the two bolts built into the rod end with nuts that fit through the suspension arm.

With the car jacked up on jack stands or a lift, you just unbolt all three and bolt the new one in. Nothing is spring-loaded or difficult to put back into place.

If you don't have some fairly large sockets (about 14mm I think) a torque wrench, a jack, and at least two jack stands, I'd think in terms of having someone else do the work. In any case it shouldn't take anyone with a lift and the right tools more than 30-45 minutes to swap both. Add an extra 15-20 minutes if you just buy the bushings and have them pressed in. Sometimes I forget that all of these tools I use cost $$$ since most belong to my dad - who doesn't use them anymore.

Heath

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Jeff Williams
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louiegz wrote:I ask about the Z t rods because I saw these on Ebay.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...02593

The look a lot like the Stillen ones they sell for the Q, and it looks like the bushing shold last longer because its not liquid filled.

So Heath, if doing the t rods are that easy, then maybe I should stop being such a baby and do it myself. What's the worst that can happen? How bad can I screw it up? So how do I do it?
First of all, these have sold for less than half that amount on eBay, before. Second of all, they will fit your car. But most importantly, do not put them on the car, unless you are upgrading all the other bushings at the same time, to poly, aluminum, or teflon. This part is meant for the lighter cars, and intended for those who intend to race the car on a track. The liquid filled rubber absorb a lot of the day-to-day stress of the suspension. A solid mount will stress the rest of the suspension a great deal, and will cause failures in other suspension parts.

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louiegz
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Well Jeff, I guess that t rod is a little extreme for my needs. I don’t plan to race my car, and these northeastern roads aren’t the smoothest around, but isn't there a middle ground? I've hear people talking about the Energy Suspension bushing. Would this be the middle ground that I'm talking about? And which one is it? Or, i guess, just go with the one from Joe in Scottsdale. Is the one he sells the same as OEM or a little firmer? All I'm looking for is that, at the end of the day, when I do the t rods, bushings, Tokico Blues, and maybe, if I feel naughty, spring the extra cash for the rear anti roll bar, I get somewhat firmer handling that stock. Even when new, I always felt that the car was a bit soft, but I was spoiled. A year or two before that, the car I was driving was a 1986 Porsche 944 Turbo. I've always, unfairly, compared the handling of every car to my old Porsche. The 03 BMW 330 that I just got for my wife is the closest car, handling, to my old Porsche. I know that it's impossible to get the Q to drive like those cars, but if I get it a little better, then I will be happy.

HeavyDuty
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IMHO, yes, the ES pieces would be a nice half-step. Do get the black ones (graphite impregnated)

I wonder though, the stock onesoffer resistance to up & down movements of the suspension, where the es pieces would allow it to pivot with little effort. Dunno how that would affect the handling, where the rubber ones compromise twisting deflection.

fxjackso
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HeavyDuty-

I would think that the solid urethane ES bushing would be firmer than the silicone OE, so the opposite would be true. I have ES swaybar bushings-they are very firm. I plan to switch to ES tie rod bushings in the near future.

Louie-

The 944 Turbo is one of the most legendary handling cars ever made! The Q is a huge sedan, but it does surprisingly well. You are on the right track though. Out of your list I think the single biggest improvement is the 20mm rear bar. It made the biggest difference in character (more neutral) for me. If you can also find the 28mm front active bar that helps as well.

GuidoInc
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Well, I ordered the OEM tension rod busings from Scottsdale and now I have to have a way to remove the old ones and install the new ones. Can someone tell me if this free loaner from autozone will work?

AutoZone Free Loaner Ball Joint Press

Thanks all

HeavyDuty
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Guido, I don't think that's going to work, the bushing has to fall free from the rod.

fxjackso, I'm sure we're saying the same thing, I know the urethane has a higher durometer rating, but my point was the ES bushing will allow the rod to pivot easily in an up & down motion, rolling within the rod.

The stock one limits that motion more becuase of the tension of it being molded into the retainer. It acts kinda like a spring.

O------ ^v easier with ES But moving the ES in a side to side motion will be much more stiff than the oem rubber. No deflection.

I'm sure we're saying the same thing, basically two different axis' of motion.


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