Building up a ka24de need some fuel advice

Information on the naturally-aspirated KA24E and KA24DE engines.
cfinch
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Well i decided to go ka-t after a long time of kicking around ideas. I really just want to beat all those guy who took out the ka in favor of their sr. Heres a rundown of what im doing so far.

1995 ka24dewiesco forged pistons .40 over 9.5.1 compnew oem bearingsport n polish heads13 camsnew vavles/retainers/triple valve springs

So basicly rebuilt the whole motor with some stronger stuff and get some better flow from the head. I was told i could leave the crank/rods alone and still make some serious power safely so i am just leaving that alone. If not i can find ka blocks easily.

Now i just spent money getting the motor done and my budget is limiting me somewhat at the moment. I want to stuff a turbo in there while the motor is out but i want to just piece it all together. Im gonna make a custom eqaul length manifold and i already have a t3 turbo from a tbird. I got a starion intercooler and i can find a dsm bov somewhere easily.

So i need to get some fuel to feed my motor... My friend suggested a fpr and just drive around on that with my stock injectors. I mentioned the maf sensor hack and he thinks its worth a try but im still gonna need a fpr with aleast 1:1 . I dont want to blow $600 on a jwt program since this is just temporary. I just want to save trouble of having to do it while the engines in the car and just make it drivable while i save for a haltech.

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Chris


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Checkered-Member
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S13 cams? Do you mean you want aftermarket cams?

How much power do you want?

Consider forged valves with aftermarket spring retainers, and porting the intake manifold.

Fuel injectors either 370CC or more and a fuel pump depends on how much psi you want.

Tuning: S-AFC will be the cheapest way, piggy back will work as well.

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S14tat
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why are you still gonna put in the same high compression pistons in? why not go with something slightly lower like a 9.0 if you don't want to lose that much power.

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klattr1
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if he's not planning on pushing it over 16-17 lbs of boost he'll be fine. Go for it. I'm sure you'll make good numbers and also have great response.

andrave
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I don't think you need an FPR if you are doing hacked mafs.I also don't think you need all that stuff for your valvetrain. With the stock rods you can't rev it over stock anyway, so why use the valvesprings and other expensive parts? I'd spend that money on rods before I would anything else.I'd go with 370's, a walbro, and a hacked mafs probably, there has been a lot of success on this board with that.

cfinch
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Joined: Mon Jun 02, 2003 3:23 am

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Im using s13 cams in my motor...

Im using higher comp pistons cause i dont need as much boost to make power. The guy who is building my car made the decision there. He built and tuned the eclipse that holds the record for the highest whp out of a fwd without nitrous so i trust his judgement.He is using 9.5.1 in that and plans on possibly bringing it into the 11's to try to break the rwd record with a fwd.

But back to the subject at hand...

Im building the motor with new pistons and vavle train cause the motor is very tired. I dont plan on revving it any higher than 6500 when im racing it. I plan on pushing this motor till it blows and see how much i can squeeze out of this ka as soon as i get my haltech so i can make sure my car is tuned very well.

Im planning on running the hacked maf sensor for now. It seems like the cheapest option and im trying to keep this well within my budget incase anything random happens that i need some cash. Basicly trying not to blow my wad all at once... My friend is gonna give me his 370's and im gonna want a walbro anyways and the piping for the maf sensor wont cost anything. That seems like the best thing to try since im not really out anything if i dont like it.

Also im told the stock rods are very strong and forged and can withstand alot of abuse... anyone have any insight on this ?

andrave
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they won't withstand any revs over stock though... that valvetrain work doesn't seem to have much point then, does it?

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WDRacing
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If your gonna boost the motor and swao out the pistons, then swap out the rods. If your going to do your valve train, then use cheaper stock parts. If your gonna overbore your block why waste it, by waste I mean risk snapping a stock rod.

The 370's and a hacked MAF will work great. Just make sure you have somthing to retard the timing, like the MSD6 BTM. Get a fuel pump.

Checkered Member, the SAFC is a piggy back, forged valves are a waste unless your going for revs and S13 exhaust cams have longer duration, 248.

WD

cfinch
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Joined: Mon Jun 02, 2003 3:23 am

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I really dont have very much invested in the valve train. They were just triple valve springs i happened to order. Im just rebuilding it cause the motor is pretty tired and it needs and im porting it for some better flow. Its costing me a total of $600 for parts and labor on my head and i supplied the cams. The guy that is building my motor said the rods should be just fine since they are very strong to begin with... Has anyone actually tried pushing a set of stock rods ? I trust my friends judgement and atleast i can find a ka block just about anywhere for dirt cheap.

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huguetpj
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Pornflakes (ka24de.com) says he has pushed the stock rods to 18PSI safely. Even 22PSI, but that's pushing it.

MikeMurphy
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klattr1 wrote:if he's not planning on pushing it over 16-17 lbs of boost he'll be fine. Go for it. I'm sure you'll make good numbers and also have great response.


yeah if you dont mind running it on approximatly 115 octane fuel. ;)

I cant see anyone running 18psi safely on a stock bottom end unless they have the smallest cam lobes in the world.


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