building my bottom end questions

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chillmieste
Posts: 381
Joined: Mon Aug 12, 2002 2:22 am
Car: 97 240sx KA-T
Location: Ft lauderdale

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hey been doing some research and just have a couple questions for people who have built their motors. (only trying to do this once!) I plan on pushing 400-450ish daily on pump gas with my gt3076r.Im using my old 97 ka block that i blew the ring lands on years ago so no oil issues and crank should be in good shape. I have recently picked up a set of cp pistons 89.5mm stock compression ratio and some eagle rods. I found a set of clevite bearing set for rods and main bearings in standard size. Now is the standard size going to be ok with my setup? Im also going to use arp rod and main studs. I would also like to get the bottom end fully balanced should i include clutch and flywheel? What if i ever change my clutch setup will that be an issue? When i bring my stuff to the machine shop do they need the front cover and head as well? Also I was thinking of getting the block o ringed. Is there anything else i should tell the machine shop to do when they have it? thanks any help is much appreciated


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superDorifto
Posts: 1306
Joined: Mon Jun 13, 2005 1:13 pm
Car: 1997 Eclipse Spyder - AWD/5spd swap in progress
1995 Q45 - 5spd swap in progress
1984 200sx hatch(KA-t swap) - 355WHP
1991/1993/1995/1997 240s - Dead
1982 200sx hatch - fixed/scrapped
Location: CT

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You say a lot that has me concerned.

You want to run 400 plus on a motor that you previously blew-up....you also mention casually throwing std bearings into the bottom end and hoping for the best. The FSMs are in the stickies - they have all of the acceptable limits for the bottom end, if you want to push 400 everyday your bottom end needs to be on the higher side of factory limits.

Any good shop that you take this motor to should be able to help. You also should not need to have the clutch balanced with the bottom end, but its really a personal choice, after a long talk with my machininst I did not have the clutch balanced, but every build is different.

If they deck the block/head they will need the front covers to ensure that the same amount of material is taken of to keep the head gasket from blowing.

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D-UNIT
Posts: 787
Joined: Mon Jun 23, 2003 10:37 pm
Car: a 91' S13 (15.014 @ 94.56mph NA) KA-T

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If your machinist checks your rod and crank journals and they are in spec std size bearings will not only be fine , it will be the only size you will be able to use. Now if the crank is worn then oversized bearings will be in order. One suggestion would be to ask for mirco polishing the journals. Balancing is must and competent machine shops can balance the clutch/flywheel separately mine charges $70. I don't know if you shop does weight matching. Its when you do full engine balancing they match the weights of the rods and the pistons to the gram. I've done all of that and I can rev to 7400 rpm and not feel one vibration!
I eventually blew out my clutch and I changed it and my aluminum flywheel's heat shield and didn't bother rebalancing , well it started buzzing and vibrating slightly though out the rev range. Don't cheap out. Full balancing cost me $270.

chillmieste
Posts: 381
Joined: Mon Aug 12, 2002 2:22 am
Car: 97 240sx KA-T
Location: Ft lauderdale

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Thanks for the input guys not going to cheap out the build just want to make sure i ask the right questions and make suggestions if i can while im there. I want to make the best of this and hopefully run it to another 100k easy.

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WDRacing
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Posts: 23925
Joined: Mon Nov 25, 2002 2:00 am
Car: 95 240SX, 99 BMW 540i, 01 Chevy Express, 14 Ford Escape
Location: MFFO
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No such thing as a stupid question when you're pouring money into a build.

Like mentioned, check the specs on things before choosing what bearings you're going to use. No need to balance the clutch, but the flywheel and rotating assembly is a must.

A 400hp build is no joke.


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